99 Outback overheating

[Rooster2]

Agreed. Here is what stopleak does to a Subaru

 

 

Wow............just look how badly the water passages are plugged up. What a mess!!

[davebugs]

The radiator will need flushed or replaced. But usually the heater core still suffers.

[ivans imports]

did a outback headgaskets yesterday takes about 6 hours pull motor plane heads and reassembble and reinstall the engine had tight valves on #3 and #4 heads had been done before and buckets had been mixed up make shure you check valve clearance before bolting cams down

[1-3-2-4]

Yep.. and when I got my Timing belt kit on Ebay it included a water pump for a good reason, because it's better to replace it all at once then to have to do it again later.. I've got like 6K on my EJ25D that the same issue you are dealing with now and it haven't overheated since then.

 

 

Those pictures look nasty with the stop leak!! I'm happy when I took mine apart the last owner never used it.. I bet I was the first to make it overheat however.

[ivans imports]

stop leak makes me lots of money wreaks lots of good motors and will never fix head gasket problems to mutch preshure there and toast rad and heater core too

[skiu4ikjames]

Great discussion here. Thanks again for all the good thoughts.

 

My rig is back on the road as of 9/14. Against all advice here on this thread I kept the car at my local shop and let them tear it apart. It was 't their 100th Subaru breakdown but it wasn't their 1st either.

 

They didn't find a broken gasket but they did find a cracked head. I was surprised to say the least. Even as I stood there looking at the block and heads sitting on the work bench next to each other (I didn't think the engine needed to leave its compartment) I could look at discoloration and be told there was a crack but not really know what I was looking at.

 

So, after the new/used heads planed, gaskets, tensioner, idler, pump, timing belt, fluids, and the add ins of filters (fuel, oil, and trans), seals (oil, trans, rear diff), and 17.5hrs of labor the car is running with a CEL that throws EVAP System fault codes. I replaced the filler cap just for giggles. It should have reset after thirty miles right? It didn't.

 

I brought it back to the shop and after having it a few hrs he tells me, I think your intake solenoid is bad. What am I supposed to think? Does this guy sound legit or not? I beg anyone to tell it to me straight. Because I hate feeling that I can't trust this guy but knowing enough.

[1-3-2-4]

Did the 99 Outback move the fuel vapor container to the rear of the car? Check for any disconnected hoses.

[GeneralDisorder]

He *thinks* its bad?!? Well... I *think* he needs to hang up his wrenches.

 

It's a 30 second test to check the "Evap Purge Solenoid" for proper operation. There is no such device as an "intake solenoid".

 

If he took several hours to determine this piece of wisdom then he's an idiot or incompetent or both.

 

Test. Verify. *then* replace. He doesn't sound very confident - as I said in the beginning - find an expert. Your mechanic is a hack.

 

GD

[davebugs]

17. 5 hours?

 

Seriously. I"m not a prefessional but if I went at it seriousely it takes half that.

 

I do it at my own pace, working alone and it takes a long day. I remove the rad and have it cleaned and tested and definately remove the engine. Removing the engine IMO makes a better job of it (surface preperation and stuff. And if a plastic baffle place you reseal it. Heck I reseal the metal ones too because I have the engine out.

 

And he's clueless about the current problem.

 

Did he use Subaru HG's (or something he made more money on?

 

And I believe in 98 the charcoal canister was moved to the rear basically under the fuel filler tube.

 

First guess is he screwed up and left a hose off the intake, broke one, you get the idea.

 

Or the filler tube just happened to go bad - because why would you have just decided to replace the fuel cap?

Edited September 22, 2012 by davebugs