branbikenut1 Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 That's kind of what i thought, but as you pointed out these engines wear extremely well. I still need to figure something out though. Does the idea Ive got in my head sound like it'd work? My old man used to drive a big rig and all of his trucks had a similar setup on the back of the truck to push the air over the trailer. He said it made a difference. I think I'm going to make a rough layout and test it at a couple of different angles and heights to see what works best. I only live about a mile from a freeway entrance so i can jump on there to get some more results. Hopefully this isn't going to be a complete waste of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 250k is barely even broken in. and i dont know of any subaru with"easy miles" lol pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and see if fuel comes out. if it does then it explains your power/starting issues. every subaru i've ever had or driven has no problem getting to 65. even fully loaded. if its not the fpr then double check your distributor timing. and re-tension the timing belts. pretty simple. if theres no codes then its a problem with a part of the engine that isnt monitored by the ecm. hows the plugs? are they gaped correctly? cap and rotor, is the center button in the cap springy still? corroded? air filter? tap it on the fender and see if its full of dirt. fuel filter? no real way to check it but they are like $10, and always a good investment. very sweet car, simple, cheap and effective, i have some what the same plan for mine, i just need the lift. i hope you get the power issues sorted:popcorn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 As for flaring/air dams. Yes it does make a large difference (Really noticeable in 18-wheelers) those little flares which run along side of the trailer will add 1mpg (Which adds up) and I'm sure the drag is also helped. I know of the large air dams on the rear of the cab, I've seen plenty of those, and it probably helps. Surely some type off flaring on your roofrack will help. Add a wedge to the front (Like a Daytona) :-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 250k is barely even broken in. and i dont know of any subaru with"easy miles" lolpull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and see if fuel comes out. if it does then it explains your power/starting issues. every subaru i've ever had or driven has no problem getting to 65. even fully loaded. if its not the fpr then double check your distributor timing. and re-tension the timing belts. pretty simple. if theres no codes then its a problem with a part of the engine that isnt monitored by the ecm. hows the plugs? are they gaped correctly? cap and rotor, is the center button in the cap springy still? corroded? air filter? tap it on the fender and see if its full of dirt. fuel filter? no real way to check it but they are like $10, and always a good investment. very sweet car, simple, cheap and effective, i have some what the same plan for mine, i just need the lift. i hope you get the power issues sorted:popcorn: I had the timing reset and the belt tension checked a few weeks ago which did help some. the only code that reads is the EGR which Ive been told should have little effect. Plugs are brand new and gapped correctly as well as the cap and rotor. New Wix air filter as well. The fuel filter is supposed to be a year or so old according to some receipts that came with the car when i bought it. I have yet to check the regulator. If fuel runs out of the regulator while the vacuum line off, would that mean the regulator is bad? I've never really messed with regulators much. It doesn't have any issues starting, only getting up to speed after about 45ish. Thanks man. Hope you have a bit better platform to work with than i do :-p As for flaring/air dams. Yes it does make a large difference (Really noticeable in 18-wheelers) those little flares which run along side of the trailer will add 1mpg (Which adds up) and I'm sure the drag is also helped. I know of the large air dams on the rear of the cab, I've seen plenty of those, and it probably helps. Surely some type off flaring on your roofrack will help. Add a wedge to the front (Like a Daytona) :-p I hope it does, I'm going to pick up some steel in the morning to get to work on it. That wedge would be an interesting addition, i wonder if anyone has tried that. Id even think about making one if i didn't have an obsession with taking this beast offroad Does anyone know if there has been a ej20tt swap in an ea82? i found a good deal on a low mileage engine with the computer. My buddy wants my engine for his buggy so that'd be a perfect excuse for an engine swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 yes sir, if fuel comes out of the FPR vacuum line, its bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 Ill have to tear it apart this weekend and check it out. Thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 A EJ20TT won't even fit in the USDM Imprezas (Left hand drive) so I don't think a TT is gonna fit in the EA82 lol. Unless you get real creative :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 the ej20tt would fit, if you dont think you need brakes or steering lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 That BLOWS! I think that just crushed me dreams a little :-p I never did any real research on the engine to know any of that. I just seen an add for it and it was real cheap. Should just buy it anyways, could be a killer engine transplant in my s10 :-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 ... Should just buy it anyways, could be a killer engine transplant in my s10 :-p There is a Reason for that engine for being so Cheap: it Won't fit any LHD Subie... Nor your S10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Didn't someone on here put the TT into a brat? A red one, I believe. It took some modifications to make it fit... but it worked. You could still use the engine, just convert it to single turbo. Basically use the longblock and bolt all USDM manifolds to it with a usdm wrx wiring and computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 If I bought it it'd prolly just be used for a buggy or something. I just thought it was pretty sweet and that was a killer price. Idk if there was a brat or not, ill have to look around for it. If I find it ill post a link. Might be putting new exhaust on the car soon. Made a bet with my old man and I won...of course :-p any ideas for a good muffler? Im looking for something with a nice tone and a generally small design. I'm thinking a thrush welded, they are fairly cheap, nicely toned, small design. I know a few people running this muffler and they all love them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted December 16, 2012 Author Share Posted December 16, 2012 finally got exhaust on the car today. went with a 2 1/2" inlet and outlet thrush welded and jept the 3" tailpipe, sounds pretty good, cant wait to break the muffler in a bit to see how it'll really sound. I'm in the process of making my 2" lift. fpr the rear, I know the tabs are bent at a 45° angle. but does anybody how long they are? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4play Posted December 16, 2012 Share Posted December 16, 2012 I just did this to my suby, I made the back pcs 4" long put the holes1" in on both ends. I bent them a little more than 45 thay fit better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted December 16, 2012 Share Posted December 16, 2012 i would suggest making your tabs too long until after you bend them. at that point you can square em up and then find your 2" range. mine are a little longer than 2" but idk how much, as i didnt build it. hth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted December 20, 2012 Author Share Posted December 20, 2012 I'm cutting them at 3 3/ 4 and gunna go from there. on another note, I found a 99 outback sedan real cheap with a bad headgasket. is this a common problem? how much of a b*&%$ are they to change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 on another note, I found a 99 outback sedan real cheap with a bad headgasket. is this a common problem? how much of a b*&%$ are they to change? Pretty common in the 2.5 engines of that year. there are some how-to threads on here somewhere. It's a pain but doesn't seem too bad. (Crossing fingers as I have yet to perform this fix) But 2 basic options. 1. Pull the motor and have plenty of space to work. 2. Don't pull the motor and swap it in the car in more cramped and awkward conditions. You'll probably get a variety of advice on which is the easier/better way to do the swap. But either way, I wouldn't be too scared of it. Seems pretty straightforward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 or you can also do a search for a ej22 swap. use a ej22e from a 95 automatic subaru for dual port heads that match, and EGR if your car has EGR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Pretty common in the 2.5 engines of that year. there are some how-to threads on here somewhere. It's a pain but doesn't seem too bad. (Crossing fingers as I have yet to perform this fix) But 2 basic options. 1. Pull the motor and have plenty of space to work. 2. Don't pull the motor and swap it in the car in more cramped and awkward conditions. You'll probably get a variety of advice on which is the easier/better way to do the swap. But either way, I wouldn't be too scared of it. Seems pretty straightforward. pull the motor, it doesnt add that much time, and your back will thank you. the time it takes to r and i a motor cant be much more than the extra time it takes to find things you cant see/drop/didnt know were there etc. plus youll find AND have access to all the stuff you didnt know was wrong and fix it easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted December 23, 2012 Author Share Posted December 23, 2012 Thanks for all the advise everyone! I'm planning on picking the car up on Christmas Eve. hopefully a good $800 investment. Are there other things i should watch for with the 2.5? I cant find much info on them besides the head gasket issue. Ill be sure to post pics of it asap. Looks pretty awesome. Figure out a solution for the roof rack yet? Video/sound clips of exhaust? Thanks a lot! For being a beater, i seem to get quite a bit of compliments Im currently in the process of making the air dam thing for my rack. got it all cut out and ready to install, just gotta find the best way to mount it. Havnt gotten any exhaust clips. its not straight piped anymore apparently the city cops around my place didnt find it as awesome as i did I got a thrush welded muffler put on last week. ill post a vid of that prolly after christmas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 Ive been doing some research and see that a 1995 ej22 is a common swap for the 2.5. Why is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted December 25, 2012 Author Share Posted December 25, 2012 Got the car today!!! A lot cleaner than i thought it would be. Even with the head gasket it runs damn good! Rides amazing! I STOLE it! $700!!! Ill definitely post pics soon. I don't know if I'm going to post a build thread on it though, i cant find much to really do to it. I cant find much anything lift kit wise either :/ I already have a set of wheels donated from mommas pt cruiser and some new snow tires originally bought for the Loyale. Any further info on these cars would be extremely helpful. Performance mods, lift kits, stuff like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted January 13, 2013 Author Share Posted January 13, 2013 Did some work the the Wonder Wagon last weekend. Put some new shocks on it, KYB GR-2. I LOVE them. I didnt realize my old ones were so bad, these boosted the rear nearly 2-2.5 inches. No rubbing anymore! My home made spring compressor, kinda sketchy but worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 Where did you order the KYB's? And did you just order them for a 92 Loyale? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted January 14, 2013 Author Share Posted January 14, 2013 I bought them through JC Whitney. about $37 a piece. ya, I just typed th in the info for the car and that'd one pf the first that popped up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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