branbikenut1 Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Thats kind of what i figured for the rear. i was going to try a few different angles and see what worked the best if noone knew the angle. Ive been looking at pics of many different kits and it looks like most of the lift consists of dropping all the major mounts and crossmembers. Is that right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Looks like you were cramming those tires a little worse than me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Anything larger than a 2" lift, and you will be dropping the engine/trans crossmember, Radius rod mounts, Rear suspension tube and mustashe bar. A 3" lift, you will drop everything else 1" ect.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Anything larger than a 2" lift, and you will be dropping the engine/trans crossmember, Radius rod mounts, Rear suspension tube and mustashe bar. A 3" lift, you will drop everything else 1" ect.. So if im looking to do a 4 inch i drop the struts 2 and the mounts/crossmembers 2? Just trying to make sure ive got the idea right. Id rather make it all then spend the money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 You will drop the struts 4" then drop the crossmembers ect 2" (So the axles are closer to stock geometry) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 Ooohhhhh, gotcha I just had to be sure before i really start the build and screw it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 Finally went out and got myself a Hynes manual. according to the manual I've got myself a bad air temp sensor. Would that cause chugging while the engines still cold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 There isn't an Air temp sensor on the EA82. This could also be a possible Coolant Temp Sensor (The one that tells the ECU the engine temp) I forgot if you said you cleaned the IAC yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 Ill go back and check the light and book again to make sure. No I havnt cleaned it yet. I checked it out and it was actually pretty clean. I looked the code up online and it was different than my book. I think the website told me it was the EGR. but I'll check again to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Its possible this is the EGR Purge Solenoid. These tend to fail, and a new one can be had for about $50. I replaced mine a few years ago. I have a complete listing of all codes the SPFI EA82 from 1987-94 will put out. I will post them ASAP for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 (edited) 1988-94 EA82 SPFI Engine Code Listing: 11 Crank Angle Sensor/Circuit 12 Start Switch/Circuit 13 Crank Angle Sensor/Circuit 14 Fuel Injector (Abnormal Output) 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Circuit 23 Air Flow Meter/Circuit 24 Air Control Valve/Circuit 31 Throttle Sensor/Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor/Circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor/Circuit 34 EGR Solenoid/Circuit 35 EGR Purge Control Solenoid/Circuit 42 Idle Switch/Circuit 45 Kick Down Control Relay (Automatic Transmission) 51 Neutral Switch Continuously In The On Position 55 EGR Temperature Sensor/Circuit 61 Parking Switch/Circuit Edited September 27, 2012 by TheLoyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 Your code list says it's the EGR solenoid/circuit which is the same as what I found on the internet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 So its code 34? That is the same code I had. It really didn't make the car run any different (Only my check engine light was on all the time, kinda bothersome) I have a picture of the little unit which you could replace to fix the error. Let me find it. If anything, I will take a picture for you tomorrow oh its location. You can buy a new one at O'Reillys or NAPA or the like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 Only my check engine light was on all the time, kinda bothersome. It's wicked annoying at night. It's a very bright red light that annoys me. Enter: ELECTRICAL TAPE! My CEL has been away for 3 years now, it's great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted September 28, 2012 Author Share Posted September 28, 2012 So its code 34? That is the same code I had. It really didn't make the car run any different (Only my check engine light was on all the time, kinda bothersome) I have a picture of the little unit which you could replace to fix the error. Let me find it. Yes it is a code 34. I got to reading a bit more in my manual and it showed me how to clear the computer so i did and it took away prolly 90% of the chugging. My engine light is on ALL the time now which it wasn't before but whatever i guess, its running better. It's wicked annoying at night. It's a very bright red light that annoys me. Enter: ELECTRICAL TAPE!My CEL has been away for 3 years now, it's great. I did the ole black tape trick with my old cherokee and i too loved it I'm thinking its going to be a new edition to the Subie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 It's wicked annoying at night. It's a very bright red light that annoys me. Enter: ELECTRICAL TAPE!My CEL has been away for 3 years now, it's great. ...I did the ole black tape trick with my old cherokee and i too loved it I'm thinking its going to be a new edition to the Subie. Well... I Removed the Bulb on my "BumbleBeast" because the Light was permanently lit since I removed all the Smog Stuff, when I did the Weber Carb swap. 1988-94 EA82 SPFI Engine Code Listing: 11 Crank Angle Sensor/Circuit 12 Start Switch/Circuit 13 Crank Angle Sensor/Circuit 14 Fuel Injector (Abnormal Output) 21 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Circuit 23 Air Flow Meter/Circuit 24 Air Control Valve/Circuit 31 Throttle Sensor/Circuit 32 Oxygen Sensor/Circuit 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor/Circuit 34 EGR Solenoid/Circuit 35 EGR Purge Control Solenoid/Circuit 42 Idle Switch/Circuit 45 Kick Down Control Relay (Automatic Transmission) 51 Neutral Switch Continuously In The On Position 55 EGR Temperature Sensor/Circuit 61 Parking Switch/Circuit I'm Glad to Drive a Weberized EA82! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 Well... I Removed the Bulb on my "BumbleBeast" because the Light was permanently lit since I removed all the Smog Stuff, when I did the Weber Carb swap. I'm Glad to Drive a Weberized EA82! I'm really glad I DON'T drive a carbed vehicle. It can get down to -20F or below here in the winter. And carbs suck in that kind of stuff. Also, they don't like funny angles or long sweeping turns, etc. I'd much rather have efi. I could remove the bulb, I suppose. It's easier to just put tape over it, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted September 30, 2012 Author Share Posted September 30, 2012 The last carbed vehicle i owned was my d50. All sorts of issues. Still loved every bit of it though. Thats the only vehicle I've owned thats slower than my subie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted October 29, 2012 Author Share Posted October 29, 2012 Got in a little mud the other day. blew tire off the bead :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Covered in mud! Because racecar :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 I'm always telling people this thing is a racecar, just not for the street :-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 I've been thinking about doing a little modification to my roof rack. it seems to be too much of a wind break and its driving me insane. I cant even hop on the freeway without holding it to the wood in 4th gear to do 65. I'm really thinking of doing something like this guy here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I dunno how yours can be so bad on the freeway? Mine has 27s, rack, lights, tire, and a 3AT! I can get up to 55-60 real easy. Hmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
branbikenut1 Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 I dunno how yours can be so bad on the freeway? Mine has 27s, rack, lights, tire, and a 3AT! I can get up to 55-60 real easy. Hmm It stumps me too. I'm thinking thethats 230,000 hard miles are starting to take effect. My tires measure about 25.5. I ran them without the rack and there was a substantial difference. Idk how your rack is mounted but I mounted mine on top of the factory rack and the top stands about 8-10 inches above the roof. I'm thinking it could be allowing too much air underneath the rack and messing with the aerodynamics. Ill admit I know little about this kind of stuff but with the amount of difference there is from running the rack and not, I think I might be onto something. The idea I have in my head is to make a plate mounted to the rack that's angled equivalent to the windshield, sits only a few millimeters about the roof and meets with the top of the front bar of the rack. That way it'll redirect the air over the rack instead of under and into it. That's the idea anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I pretty much mounted my rack the same as you did. Perhaps the motor is getting tired. Although, I've noticed, even with 200,000+ miles, Subaru motors wear very well. I've seen the piston walls still have the original hone marks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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