Cutch replacement question

[Mikevan10]

What are the differences in procedure for replacing a clutch on a 2008 Legacy GT with the 2.5 liter turbocharged motor compared to a 1997 Legacy wagon with a non-turbo EJ-22?

 

Will the special tool I have for holding the cank pulley on the EJ-22 work on the '08?

 

Thanks,

Mike V.

[gratefuldude]

I would assume the difference is small, and the same tool should work.

[WRX]

Edited August 28, 2012 by WRX

[95legwagon]

/\ whats the point of posting that pic lol

 

and the crank pulley should be the same between the two cars.... and i would assume from the soob engines i have seen its like everything else on these cars....pretty much the same.....

[Fairtax4me]

Well first off you'll have a turbo in the way and a LOT of associated piping and hoses.

08 bellhousing has 8 bolts.

Biggest thing is the turbo trans uses a pull type clutch release lever (it pulls against the pressure plate rather than pushing it), research how to disconnect that before you can separate the engine and trans. Otherwise you will pry at the bellhousing all day and the most you will get done is wear out the prybar.

The crank pulley should be the same or nearly. If it isn't there are plenty of other ways to hold the crank still.

 

The rest should be similar enough I would think.

[uniberp]

/\ whats the point of posting that pic lol

 

and the crank pulley should be the same between the two cars.... and i would assume from the soob engines i have seen its like everything else on these cars....pretty much the same.....

 

That's a CAT.... clutch alignment tool.. .splined thingee that keeps the disc centered as you tighten the plate, lets you push it around a bit.

 

"Hold the crank pulley" ...? everyone i knows sticks a tire iron in the inspection hole.

[Mikevan10]

Thanks for the comments guys!

 

1. That is quite a handsome cat! Mine's much cuter though.

 

2. So the turbocharger and assocated plumbig will be in the way of loosening off the bell housing to engine block bolts? Meaning I will have to disconnect some of these and/or remove some of these parts? Yikes!! Exhause system work is bad enough and now it is turbo related.... Should I prepare for this by procuring any gaskets, seals or fasteners? Are there connections/fasteners that I should assume will break?

 

3. I am having difficulty envisioning a "pull type clutch release lever that pulls against the pressure plate rather than pushing it". Is there someplace I can find a drawing/picture of this arrangement?

 

4. I was hoping not to have to resort to funny schemes for holding the crank shaft. But I can get as crude as the best of them if I must... I don't think my '92 or '97 have suitable access holes in the bell housing to hold the flywheel, but I could easily be wrong, although there must have been a reason that I invested in the special tool.

 

5. Any chance someone can direct me to a factory service manual (or any service manual) for this vehicle? Haynes stops at 2006. Are the clutch replacement aspects of the 2006 the same as the 2008?

 

Thanks again!

 

Mike V.

[GeneralDisorder]

It is not a pull-type on your car. They did away with that on the layer model turbo 5MT's.

 

Why do you need to hold the crank from turning?

 

With turbo cars its generally easier to pull the tranny for a clutch.

 

To pull the engine you just unbolt the down-pipe. Everything else stays attached to the engine. In some ways its easier than a non turbo. You probably will break some of the turbo downpipe bolts/studs.

 

GD

[Mikevan10]

Thanks GD.

 

I need to keep the crank from turning when I loosen/tighten the flywheel to crankshaft screws.

 

I ALWAYS drop the transmission to do the clutch on a Subaru. Wouldn't consider pulling the engine.

 

Any comments about:

 

2. So the turbocharger and assocated plumbing will be in the way of loosening off the bell housing to engine block bolts? Meaning I will have to disconnect some of these and/or remove some of these parts? Yikes!! Exhause system work is bad enough and now it is turbo related.... Should I prepare for this by procuring any gaskets, seals or fasteners? Are there connections/fasteners that I should assume will break?

 

Mike

Edited August 29, 2012 by Mikevan10

[GeneralDisorder]

Bolt a 12mm box wrench to the pressure plate mounting hole and jam the open end against the lower bell-housing stud to hold it from turning while torquing the flywheel bolts.

 

You will have to remove the down-pipe to get clearance to remove the transmission but that should be it. You should have a new turbo to downpipe gasket and new studs/nuts/bolts as they like the rust and sometimes gall coming off leading to breakage.

 

Otherwise its a straightforward job.

 

On non-turbos its a lot simpler to pull the engine for a clutch IMO. But whatever you like doing most. I don't like wrestling the tranny over my head. Doesn't seem to work well on a Subaru regardless of how high you have it.

 

GD

[Mikevan10]

Thanks AGAIN GD.

 

I will have to check out your flywheel holding method once I get in there.

 

Thanks for the advice regarding the turbo to downpipe connection. That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. As it turns out, I will not be tackling this particular job this weekend so I have time to get the required gasket and hardware.

 

I do not have an engine hoist otherwise I would seriously consider the "haul the entire power unit" approach. I hate wrestling the trans back in. I just have the car on jack stands and I have a system using three jacks, but it is still a bugger to say the least.

 

Mike