I'm so Confused..... ea82 engine

[xoomer]

So,

 

I've got a 92 loyale that started to smoke coolant at start up, (and only at startup.) So I looked at it and it seemed to be seeping coolant at the intake gaskets, So I replaced those. and afterwards it would sometimes start but it acted as though it had lost compression on one bank. and then started smoking really bad (all the time) So I was resigned to finding a motor and replacing it.

 

 

Fast forward a couple of months. I finally found a motor thats available that I'm going to throw in so I pulled this motor out and broke it down, for what I call an after action report.. so I know how it failed and to see if the parts are salvageable.. but I can't find the leak. The heads are not cracked in the usual places (that I can see, and those cracks have always been noticeable before.) and the gaskets were surprisingly intact. The only thing I saw was that #1 piston & sparkplug was clean.

 

So, My Assumption is that the problem lies in #1 valves or in the Head gasket. Does this sound right?

 

 

 

Thanks for reading with me.

[Subaru_dude]

Did you use Subaru intake manifold gaskets? The same thing happened to an EA82 I had a few years ago, I figured it was just the cheapo intake manifold gaskets but I hate the EA82 so much I just retired the car.

[scoobiedubie]

Were the cylinder head bolts not real tight when you first touched them? If they were loose then that could have been your problem to begin with.

[john in KY]

Not an EA82 expert but doesn't it have a coolant crossover incorporated within the intake manifold? Maybe the intake has a small crack or hole allowing the coolant to be sucked into the intake runner.

[scoobiedubie]

On the EA82T, there is a rubber coolant line that plugs into the top of the block, just eneath the intake crossover. The rubber line get old, hard, brittle and leaks with heat and age. That could also be the culprit. It is a bear to replace.

[xoomer]

Well it dawned on me after I wrote this post that the Driver side head bolts were a bear to break loose, and the passenger side ones were not that tight. (nowhere near 65 ft pounds)

 

I came to the conclusion that someone has probably been in this motor before and did a botched job. I'm still replacing the motor with one I found for sale because I don't want to risk it right now, but I will probably get these heads machined and checked as well as the the rest of the motor resealed and keep it around/sell it because it appears to be low miles.

 

 

Thanks!

[scoobiedubie]

The key to not having to retighten your cylinder head bolts every 7000 miles ad infinitum, is to clean the entire bolt and washer thoroughly in for instance, brake cleaner and use an air compressor to blow them dry while the cleaner is still on them. Then you do the same thing with the bolt holes in the block. If you can't eat rice with those bolts, then they aren't clean enough. You want those bolts to be squeaking when you put the final turn to them. And then you retighten them at 7000 miles, and keep an eye on both the compression and the plugs. The plugs might get oily for instance, when the bolts get loose. Or you get coolant in the cylinder. When the bolts get loose, you also start to lose a little coolant from the overflow bottle. In the weeks that follow, you will lose it at a faster and faster pace until it finally dawns on you what the problem is.

[ivans imports]

head is warped on lower side on #1 hole a clen plug means water was hiting it look at gasket closer