Crank torque 2.2 l

[mikec03]

I have a 95 2.2 l on which I'm going to do the timing belts. I have questions about the crank bolt tightening torque. The following are the torques from the 96-99 subaru 2.2 l service manuals. I don't have the 95 service manual.

 

1996 80 ft lb

1997 94 ft lb

1998 94 ft lb

1999 94 ft lb AND oil threads, first tighten to 33 ft lb, then at least 45 degrees to final 94 ft lb

 

It looks like subaru kept increasing the torque as reports of the bolt loosing started to arrieve!

 

What would you guys do? Just tighten to 130 ft lb like the 2.5 l without oiling the threads?

[johnceggleston]

What would you guys do? Just tighten to 130 ft lb like the 2.5 l without oiling the threads?

 

those who know, spec 125 - 137, or maybe 127 - 135 ft. lbs., i can't ever remember.

 

i use 140 ft lbs. i have bought 2 good cars with ej22s that had issues with loosening crank bolts. and all the ej22 components are the same make up as the ej25. so why not.

[avk]

I recall (perhaps incorrectly) that there is a different part number for the crank bolt with a higher torque setting.

[987687]

I oil the threads and crank it down to somewhere around 140. Never had one come loose, and you can get them off later if you need.

I always oil the threads on high torque bolts, otherwise friction of the dry metal will give a higher torque reading then you actually are getting.

 

In fact, I anti-seize most things. Or in the case of things like this that don't want anti-seize, oil.

[davebugs]

I'm guessing I do well over 150. I was 220 lbs when I did most Subaru work.

 

With my long Snap-on breaker bar I'd get them as tight as I could. I never worried about breaking the bolt.

 

There are 2 bolts it seems. I think some 2.2's are shorter than some 2.5's, don' tknow about hardness.

 

And I never had any come loose either. Sometimes for kicks I'd put red permatex on the flat surface that goes against the cogged piece that turns the belt.

[MilesFox]

I like the idea of oiling the thread as your list depicts evolution of the torque sequence over trial and error across years.

 

try to get the bolt snug first and then 1/4 turn with the breaker bar. you will have to turn through any slack in the driveline before she torques up.

 

Although i can see these huge torque factors being effective, i would think that if you had it apart again, the thread is stretched and will not hold torque the next time, hence pulleys coming loose even more.

 

I use the 1/2" electric impact to just snug it on after wrecnching it by hand. I will go out of my way to remove the radiator or pull the engine as it usually is easier to do critical repairs if you just pull the engine first.

[WoodsWagon]

On manuals I put it in 5th with the parking brake on and reef on the bolt with my 16" breaker bar. I'd put it in the really f'n tight category. With auto's I use my craftsman 1/2" ratchet and the 5lb hand sledge to do some poor man's impact gun action on it. Bring it up against a compression stroke by hand, then smack it hard with the hammer.

 

Haven't had one of mine come loose yet, and I've fixed a couple others that did.

[987687]

When I was working at a garage, we had a lot of subarus come through for timing belts, head gaskets, whatever. I actually made a crank pulley holder tool one slow afternoon.

I like tightening and loosening it that way since it doesn't put force through the crank by using the drivetrain.

 

The other trick is to take an old alternator belt. Put it around just the alt and wind it into itself around the crank pulley. It will hold it good and tight both loosening and tightening.

[mikec03]

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to go with the 130+ ft lb torque and dry threads. I really worry about oiling the threads because that must increase the tightening by 50% or so. Subaru specifically warns against oiling the rim wheel nuts for example.

[avk]

The part number for the older bolt is 800213030, and the newer one is 12369AA011. I'd be wary about tightening an older bolt to 130 lb*ft, especially when re-using (although some of the much more experienced folks did so with no ill effects). Might be a good idea to get a new bolt. It's no less important than all the other numerous parts being replaced, and costs only $5 or so. Get a new Woodruff key, too.

[987687]

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to go with the 130+ ft lb torque and dry threads. I really worry about oiling the threads because that must increase the tightening by 50% or so. Subaru specifically warns against oiling the rim wheel nuts for example.

 

Definitely oil the threads. Not only does it reduce friction to reduce the chance of stripped threads, it'll make it easier to get it out next time. And if everything is a bit more grimy and dirty than the day it was new, it won't be tight enough. So yes, oil the threads.

 

The don't oil lug nuts thing is crap. I always use anti-seize on mine. I hate seized lug nuts. It's fine to do that, what you really don't want is oil or whatever on the SEATS. It's fine on the threads. They say don't do it to avoid people being morons, just be careful and don't make a mess with the oil.

[mikec03]

AVK

 

I wouldn't be surprised if the bolt number difference is just a change in length. But it only costs $3.47, so I'll buy a new one.

 

It's amazing that you could come up with the old and new part numbers.

[avk]

I had the car since when the old number was still new.