nipper Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Since Toe is a three letter word, it is almost unsearchable. i saw someplace how to set your toe-in with a tap measure and the spec, but i can not find it. Anyone know the process or the thread? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 (edited) i would try google. i have read a link posted here about doingv it yourself. it was very straight forward. but i don't remember the link. i just did this last week for my rear wheel toe. rear is a little more challenging, in my opinion, because when you torque on the ''toe in '' adjustment, the rears do not turn as easily as rthe fronts, just my opinion. in a nut shell: 1/ set up a ''straight edge'' wider than the rear wheels on the ground on wooden blocks just in front of the rear tires. i used a 6 foot aluminum carpenters level on 4x4 blocks. (the taller the better but at some point it gets too tall in regards to the mud flaps.) a 2x4 will work. 2/ push a straight pin into each tire, (the kind they use to mark the hem on a skirt or a pair of pants). i used safety pins because that is what i had, they come on every shirt i send to the cleaners. 3/ mark the straight edge where the pin and the straight edge meet. 4/ now, move the straight edge and the blocks it sits on to the rear of the tires, SEVERAL feet back. i used duck tape to mark the side walls of the tires where the pins were. i set the straight edge off to the side. i then rolled the car back until the pins were close to where i wanted them. THEN i set the straight edge behind the tires. 5/ roll the car backwards until the pins that were in front rotate to the rear and they meet the straight edge. 6/ NOTICE the difference between the marks on the straight edge and the safety pins. (rear toe spec is 0 +/- 0.12. i don't know the front spec off hand.) so if both marks are with in 1/8 inch of the pins you are good. if either pin is more than 1/8 inch out, that wheel needs to be adjusted. notes: this is way easier if you KNOW one wheel is right. but not impossible other wise. you just need to keep in mind which wheel needs to go which way. it may take several tries. the taller the straight edge is the better, up to the axle height. lower will add a margin of error. not much but some. so the lower you are the closer you need to be to ''dead on''. the front is easier than the rear because when you adjust the tie rod end the front tire will pivot, as designed. (the rear will move, but there is a lot more friction in my opinion.) and when you do it a second (or third) time to double check your results you will probably need to erase your earlier marks on the straight edge so you don't get confused. maybe put blocks in front of the front tires when you first start so you know how far forward to go when you start your double check. you may need to drive around the block, in which case, a tire crayon or paint pen may come in handy to re-find your ''pin points''. or you can just start over, which is probably more accurate. i suggest you loosen ANY and ALL adjustments you may need to make BEFORE you start all this, if you have to jack up the car to loosen something, you will dramatically alter the pins and marks correlation and you will have to start all over by driving the car around the block to make sure it is sitting as it should. wheels move outside to inside when you jack up the car. and they don't move back just because you lower it. good luck. ask for clarification as needed. i will try and wipe away the mud. until i read the other guys ''how to'' i assumed this was rocket science. but it turns out is is only ''geometry''? or something close to it. Edited September 13, 2012 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 13, 2012 Author Share Posted September 13, 2012 I just put in a used steering rack, so it is out. Aslo (mumblemumblemumble) i was off a tooth or two on the steering shaft so the wheel is off more then 90 degrees. sob. Really hoping i dont have to redo that as it is a pita with a lift kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 (edited) 90 degrees sounds like a lot. i would try and get the rack to steering wheel/ column as close as possible, within a few degrees. and i would likely make the final adjustment by pulling and re-installing the steering wheel. it is way easier than the steering column to rack adjustment, or the tie rod ends adjustment. PS: i have edited my above post so please reread it. good luck. Edited September 13, 2012 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 (edited) one final note: when doing this on your front wheels you probably want to start with the straight edge ''behind'' the front wheels and then move it to the front. this will make checking you marks easier when adjusting the toe in. i don't know what the measurement is for the ''tire center line to tire center line'', but that would be handy info when you start this. it will get you in the ''ball park'' when you start. Edited September 13, 2012 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 13, 2012 Author Share Posted September 13, 2012 I already decided to take the Justy camping this weekend, and leave Blu at home. I was really really hoping someone would take pity on me about the sterring wheel. i need to find an extra pair of hands some place. With a double universal it is hard to judge. On the plus side i did not know that double joint was seized and i solved that issue. So jack stands come back out on monday. Geometry ewwwwww still need the spec i know it is here someplace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Per 1997 FSM: Toe-in: mm 0±3 (in 0±0.12) Total toe angle: 0°±20′ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 13, 2012 Author Share Posted September 13, 2012 Nice thing about toe, can try it at home, screw it up or can't do it, drive it to the alignment shop. Now who wants to come over and help m out with the steering joint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 I figured out a simple way to set that (at least somewhat near the middle). Set the road wheels to something like straight, measure from the body panel edges for reference if you need to. Lower the steering rack a bit, just loosen the clamps but don't remove them (because they're a beach). Now remove the U-joint altogether. Set the steering wheel to straight. Install the U joint onto the column shaft with the pinch opening facing straight down don't put the bolt in yet. Push the rack up a bit with a floor jack to hold it while you fiddle the U joint to fit onto the rack splines. You'll probably have to turn the steering wheel a bit one way or the other, pick the closest direction and go for it. Then tighten the bolts to pull the rack back up into place, put the bolts in the pinch joints and tighten. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 13, 2012 Author Share Posted September 13, 2012 Yeah i thought i had it all measured and was so happy when it finally went on. All the fighting with the double joint i moved the steering wheel grrrr even though i had it tied down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Yeah I had to set that after my lift and the first time I got it about 60 degrees off to the right. And the car pulled left so I had to turn it even farther right to go straight! Then I got it closer with the method described above and fiddled with the toe a bit and got it to go straight. Then the wheel was to the left about 15 degrees, but I figured it was close enough. The alignment shop fixed that, but then they made it pull left again. So I had to take it back a second time and make them fix it. The guy made some excuse that it was the tires, but I had already swapped on a whole different set of wheels and it still pulled the exact same way with those so the snow tires went back on before I took it back. He did rotate the wheels because I put the crappy looking wheels on the drivers side and they were on the passenger side when he brought it back out, but it goes straight now so I don't care what he did. :-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 13, 2012 Author Share Posted September 13, 2012 That is EXACTLY my problem! AMEN someone who has been there and done that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 i usually tie off the steering wheel so it will not move too much and use ramps. if you drive in with the wheels straight they are not going to move when sitting on the ramps. but the steering wheel can spin with no load on it. tying it off will keep it from moving too much. it may not be perfect but it will help get you close. then if you want perfect, pop off the steering wheel and re-center it. or adjust the tie rod ends. a helper sitting in the driver's seat is also good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 13, 2012 Author Share Posted September 13, 2012 Well first i need to get it back on jack stands to drop the rack slightly to set it straight. i have set the toe by eye, but that was when i still had one wheel properly set (and have been dead on). Now with both out i have no reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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