Piston slap no, bottom end yes.

[uniberp]

Nuts. Put an engine with a rebuilt top end, 3 months ago and now it's getting rod knock. Burned a little oil all along too, so I think the shortblock was worn out. I shoulda known. 1999 forester L auto SOHC NA

 

I'm thinking of this shortblock... http://www.ebay.com/itm/06-07-08-09-Subaru-Legacy-Engine-Shortblock-2-5L-4-CYL-Non-Turbo-/221000965791

 

Since it seems the 1999 was a 253 and the 08 Forester I have is a 253 also.

 

I got the old original 253 in my garage with a rod knock which I could rebuild if I had the time and patience, but I doubt my skills in that area. Bolting on heads and torquing them correctly I think I could handle.

 

I never hear much about building bottom ends here.

[WoodsWagon]

I've done a couple bottom ends, they're not bad to do when you're just freshening them up with new bearings and rings. Your issue is going to be the crank and the pounding rod will both be junk.

 

You can buy a brand new shortblock from subaru for $1000, so it doesn't make much sense to pour money into rebuilding one.

 

Edit: just looked at your link, they want $800 + $230 shipping for a used shortblock?

Edit again: Prices have gone up, it's 1,800 for a new shortblock, 1k for block only. So there you are again.

Edited September 16, 2012 by WoodsWagon

[uniberp]

The 99 has the smaller journals, I think, so I'm further disinclined to rebuild it.

Both engines run, but this imminent "ticking" which I optimistically called "piston slap", I know recognize is rod knock. I found this company locally, I can drive up and back in a few hours:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-2010-Subaru-2-2-2-5-Engine-Short-Block-Legacy-Outback-Forester-Impreza-/320981186335?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item4abbf8371f&vxp=mtr

 

Anyone dealt with SSI?

 

I don't want to make a prolonged ordeal out of this. Iput this engine in in one day, I'm figuring I can pull it, pull heads, put new HG's and the heads belts, pump, pulleys on the shortblock and have it back in in a weekend.

[johnceggleston]

as i see it these are your options.

buy a used engine from a salvage yard. www.car-part.com

buy a JDM engine .

rebuild what you have.

buy a short block.

 

long term rebuilding may be the least risk, but maybe not the cheapest.

 

a used engine may be the cheapest, just depends on the engine you buy, but maybe higher risk.

JDM is probably a pretty safe bet but you MAY need to add EGR to the engine. 00 - 01 legacys ej25 do not have EGR, but i'm not sure about 99 foresters. and i also do not know if there are any other differences that need to be corrected.

 

price not withstanding, i might buy a 96 - 98 JDM and use the short block and your heads and intake. (i hear the 99 outback is the 253 block, with the 96 - 98 heads and intake.) in effect you would be buying a used low mileage short block. and i would get the ej25d because except for the head gaskets it is a more reliable engine, in my opinion.

 

the ej253 has had some unexplained bad rod bearings and i blame the bearing company.

 

and it is possible that the ej25d would be a little cheaper.

 

of course if the jdm ej253 is plug and play then maybe that. but i would rather know the gaskets are good and the rod bearing risk is lower. so if you are doing the head gaskets any way, why not use the block that does not have a bearing problem.

 

the other option i would consider is a used ej25d with a busted timing belt.

 

usually i don't think jdm is a good deal, but maybe, depending on price. a quick search turned up this one, $750 plus shipping, $250 - $550.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-99-SUBARU-IMPREZA-FORESTER-LEGACY-DOHC-EJ25D-ENGINE-JDM-EJ25-2-5L-ENGINE-ONLY-/261096465943?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cca8fe617&vxp=mtr

Edited September 16, 2012 by johnceggleston

[uniberp]

All these are good options, but what I really want is an engine that is as quiet at startup as my 2008 Forester with 60k miles. This rattling smoking stuff is tiresome.

 

There is one last chance that the oil rings (or other rings) are sticking, causing all this ruckus, and I may fog it with seafoam to try to clear that up.

Edited September 16, 2012 by uniberp

[Quidam]

All these are good options, but what I really want is an engine that is as quiet at startup as my 2008 Forester with 60k miles. This rattling smoking stuff is tiresome.

 

 

That ebay link you posted...$1200.00 (add $200.00 for 2006 up), your core and state sales tax looks like a pretty good deal.

 

NEW crank and pistons, 100% feedback, and you can pick it up.

 

Yea, better make sure you have a rod bearing problem tho:).

 

Doug