Cooling Fan Irrationality + a filthy engine block

[thechesirecat]

Before I begin, pardon my ignorance. I try to fix most stuff, but stay away from engine issues. I've got a '98 Subaru Legacy Outback that I bought a couple years back on the cheap after the obligatory EJ25 head gasket started to go and the owner had let it sit. Though it only had 105K, it needed some work. I got the head and engine gaskets, valve cover gaskets, timing belt, water pump, and cam gears replaced by a mechanic I'd used for decades.

 

-In his haste to finish the engine work, my friend didn't burp the coolant or clean an engine that had been sitting for at least a year. I started to overheat about 3 months later, at which point I flushed and burped the system . The problem was solved, but I had the check engine code "P0483" pop up immediately. This indicates a cooling fan irrationality. Since nothing changed with the fan, would a thermostat that may have been damaged when I flushed the system cause the same error?

 

-I've just moved to a new state, and hit some debris during the hurricane a couple weeks back, and went in for an alignment. The mechanic called me back in about an hour basically telling me that every engine seal was leaking and that I should immediately sell the car for scrap. Now, the engine block is still terribly oily from sitting for a year with bad seals and the car burns >1/4 quart oil in between changes, as a '98 is liable to do. I explained the situation, but he remained adamant. The odds of needing all new seals and a timing belt 8 months after being redone are very small, no?

[WoodsWagon]

Is he offering to take it off your hands for scrap value? If it runs good and you can keep up with topping off the fluids, there's no reason to junk it.

 

As for the code I'd check to make sure both fans are running when you turn the A/C on. I'd also use a scan tool to read the live data from the computer and see what it's getting for a reading from the coolant temp sensor. If the temp reading with the engine cold isn't near the same as the ambient temp and it doesn't go up to 200 with it running warmed up the sensor is suspect. The cts is a $30 screw in sensor under the intake manifold on the rear passenger side of the engine. It has two wires, the one wire sensor is for the gauge on the dash.

[MilesFox]

the mechanic wants it for scrap value so he can wash the engine and sell it for book value. if anything, have the engine power washed. avoid spraying directly onto seals and gaskets with the high pressure. give that much a chance, at least.

 

subarus will leak some sort of oil; fact of life.

[nipper]

When someone tells you something you did not ask about, be suspicous.

 

Were the seals done when the head gasket were done?

 

Clean the engine top and bottom first and lest see where it is leaking and what it is leaking. this may be something very minor, so lets start there. It may even be something livable, and if not sell it yourself if it is running ok.

[Fairtax4me]

The odds of needing all new seals and a timing belt 8 months after being redone are very small, no?

Odds of needing new seals are pretty good if your previous mechanic used cheap seals or installed them incorrectly. Lots of people have run into problems with parts store seals on these cars. It could also be something like the separator plate, or the oil pump leaking. If your old mechanic replaced the rear main seal, I'd bet that's leaking too. Rear main seals are VERY EASY to screw up on these. The originals hardly ever go bad, but they get blamed for leaks on the back of the engine that are actually caused by the other two seals in the same area, then they get replaced, and then the replacements start to leak within just a few months. These cars have about a dozen different places where oil can, and does quite often, leak from. The rear main seal isn't one of them.

 

I'd clean the engine as well as you can, and find out exactly where the leaks are coming from before putting the sign in the window. Like Woodswagon said, it's probably something that can be lived with as long as you keep your eye on the fluid levels. Worst case you find someone who can put some seals on it if you're uncomfortable doing it yourself.

Try to avoid pressure washing. A regular water hose is usually enough for knocking crud away. Purple Power works great for cutting the grease and oil. Just keep the spray pointed away from plug wires, wire harness plugs, and the alternator.

I like to get the engine warm before cleaning. I think it helps knock loose some of the crud. And it will also speed the drying process if you get any water into a connector or one of the spark plug wells.

 

edit:

P0483 Cooling fan function problem.

Basically the ECU thinks the fan isn't running. This can trigger if the engine overheats. Or if there is something blocking the radiator or front of the car preventing normal cooling when the fan is running.

 

Connect the two green plugs under the dash (to the right of the steering column) turn the key to ON and see if both fans run. They will cycle on off in roughly roughly half second intervals. And a ton of other relays and solenoids will click and carry on like the car is possessed. Don't worry, it's just in Test Mode.

Edited September 18, 2012 by Fairtax4me

[nipper]

And while we are here, replace the PCV valve.

[thechesirecat]

Thanks all. I figured the guy was trying to see if he could score a deal. Always a worry when you're scouting out a new mechanic. I'll clean up the engine and figure out if the fan or sensor is the offending part.

 

Thanks for the Test Mode tip, Fairtax. That's super helpful.