dickdirty Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 My friend gave me a motorcraft/holley/weber 5200 (basically a weber carb made by holley) and so I rebuilt it and thought I'd try it on my 78 wagon. When I originally put it on the carb at full throttle would flood the engine especially when cold and I was getting engine run on/ dieseling. And it is actually dieseling backwards. I adjusted the float and got it to run leaner and it's not flooding anymore, running pretty good actually except for now I am getting some intake backfire which stops once warmed up and it is still dieseling. My timing is at 12 right now I need help! this is my first time working with a carbon and I have no idea what i'm doing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickdirty Posted September 23, 2012 Author Share Posted September 23, 2012 ok i seemed to have got the thing running smoothly, but i am still getting backwards engine run on at shutoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 (edited) That means that your engine is "Dieseling" ... isn't it? Well... I have many info about the Weber Swap on EA82, different than the EA71 but many of that info should apply, also I have info about how to deal with dieseling; everything is in my Public Profile's page, just do a click on my Avatar and scroll down the List of Writeups and downloadable files' links to reach that info. But Basically talking, a can of Seafoam can Help on that issue... Kind Regards. Edited September 23, 2012 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 My timing is at 12 right nowIf your carb doesn't have an anti-dieseling solenoid (optional) it will probably have dieseling problem with that much advance. Try 10 degrees BTDC and if that doesn't work try 8. You shouldn't have any problems at 8, but if you can get 10 (or something more than 8) out of it, so much the better. It all depends on the individual engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickdirty Posted September 23, 2012 Author Share Posted September 23, 2012 i have the timing at 9 right now, and it's still dieseling (it usually runs forward for a few revolutions then goes backwards till it shuts itself off) running some seafoam through it right now. starting to get really frustrated because i feel like i have pretty much adjusted everything also my oil light is starting to flicker while it's idling (wondering it the engine running backwards is messing up my oil pump) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 i have the timing at 9 right now, and it's still dieseling (it usually runs forward for a few revolutions then goes backwards till it shuts itself off) running some seafoam through it right now. starting to get really frustrated because i feel like i have pretty much adjusted everything also my oil light is starting to flicker while it's idling (wondering it the engine running backwards is messing up my oil pump) Try it at 8. Seafoam probably isn't going to do much for you, no offense. How old is the oil pump? When was the last time you adjusted the valve lash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOONGA Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 thats a big carby for a small motor (realistically) they do work but they need to be set up properly. What size main and secondary jets does the carby have ? what size idle jets? what size air correcter jets? what size emulsion tubes? Take the timing back to six degrees (between 6 and 8 degrees is factory for this motor) and see if the dieseling stops. then advance it a degree at a time until it diesels, then take the timing back to where it didn't diesel and set that as your timing. as for the flashing oil light at idle what is you idle rpm set at? TOONGA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickdirty Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 Try it at 8. Seafoam probably isn't going to do much for you, no offense. How old is the oil pump? When was the last time you adjusted the valve lash? not sure how old the pump is but i did a valve adjustment about a month or two ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickdirty Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 thats a big carby for a small motor (realistically) they do work but they need to be set up properly. What size main and secondary jets does the carby have ? what size idle jets? what size air correcter jets? what size emulsion tubes? Take the timing back to six degrees (between 6 and 8 degrees is factory for this motor) and see if the dieseling stops. then advance it a degree at a time until it diesels, then take the timing back to where it didn't diesel and set that as your timing. as for the flashing oil light at idle what is you idle rpm set at? TOONGA i figured it was a jet problem, not exactly sure what size is in there but i have a feeling they are too big. my mpg has gone down significantly from 23ish to about 12. if i rejet it do i need to replace the main jets idle jets air corrector jets and emulsion tubes? if i pull the jets out is there a way to tell what size they are currently? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 ...if i rejet it do i need to replace the main jets idle jets air corrector jets and emulsion tubes? if i pull the jets out is there a way to tell what size they are currently? I Kindly suggest you to remove the Main Jets first, usually those has a Number emblazoned in the circumference, let us Know the numbers of Both. ... Seafoam probably isn't going to do much for you... Well, sometimes Dieseling gets worse if there are Much carbon deposits which gets too hot to keep the engine runnin' without a spark, so usually a seafoam cleansing helps to reduce Dieseling in such situations, by cleaning some of those deposits. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOONGA Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Remove them one at a time so you don't confuse where they are meant to be. On most EA 1800 motors a main jet of 130-135 is normal and a secondary main of 140 -160 is normal as well. Idle jets should be 50-55 air correction 160 -170 for the main and same for secondary I have not much information on emulsion tubes just make sure they go back in the right place. (sorry) With the motor you are running 120-125 for the main and 130 -145 for the secondary main 40 -50 for the idle and 160 -170 for the air correction will work these should help as well weber carburetor manual https://www.rapidshare.com/files/1267072237/W%20C%20M.rar and the notes on webers from an escort haynes I would say https://www.rapidshare.com/files/3160717618/weber%20notes.rar TOONGA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickdirty Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 the jets are way to big main jets were 179/225 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOONGA Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 the jets are way to big main jets were 179/225 thats jetted for a 4-5 litre motor O_o it must be fun to drive but leave a James Bond cloud of black smoke when roaring past other drivers change the mains and see how it goes What size are the idle jets? TOONGA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickdirty Posted September 28, 2012 Author Share Posted September 28, 2012 there is actually no black smoke. just really bad gas mileage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOONGA Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 cool, I had a 145 main and a 210 secondary in the weber carby I put on my brumby and it belched black smoke, but ran like a demon. Did you download that weber manual? it has really good information in it on the 32/36 carbys, as well as many other carbys. TOONGA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 I Run my "BumbleBeast" with 140 in Low and 162 in High on a Weber 32/36 Carb, that is the best balance I could achieve between Power and fuel consumption in a 1.8L engine used from the sea level up to 5K feet without issues nor tuning; I guess that for the 1.6L engine, 120 in Low and 140 in High will be sufficient. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickdirty Posted October 5, 2012 Author Share Posted October 5, 2012 switched mains to 130/140 because that was the smallest they had at baxters still dieseling, gonna try to tweak the carb around with the smaller jets and see what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOONGA Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 (edited) does your weber have an Idle Jet Solenoid http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/43914.060.htm http://www.jtoutfitters.com/weber-carb-idle-solenoid-3236-dgev-3838-dges-p-4667.html This will stop the dieseling 99% of the time. TOONGA Edited October 5, 2012 by TOONGA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 ...still dieseling... Have you already Tried to clean the excess of carbon deposits with Seafoam? I Bet it gonna be the Solution. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brat78 Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 I've had dieseling issues with my dgev as well. It's a new car to me and a new motor so I have no idea if it's the carb. I do not have that solenoid though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 What size are the idle jets? As TOONGA points out, the jet primarily affecting fuel supply at idle (on a properly tuned Weber) is the primary idle jet. If the mains were that far off, then you can bet the idle jets are way off too. They are easy to get to, so there's no reason not the check and change if needed. Dieseling can occur with an over-lean A/F mixture, so vacuum leaks, improper carb tuning, etc,... can be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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