czny Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 (edited) Decided to go for aftermarket Wildwood 260-8419 proportioning valves - 2 of them to keep the divided brake system( Frt left & Rt rear + Frt right & Lft rear) Bought some Edelmann fittings: 4 ea inline tube conns, # 274000(10 x 1.0 mm Invert flare): 4 ea 3/16 invert flare x 1/8 NPTM 90* elbows,#122320: 4 ea 3/16 tube nuts, parts tore only had the long 3/8-24 nuts, # 121030, 1 ea 3/16" x 51" L metric line with 10 x 1.0 mm nuts. Removed orig prop valve & replaced with 2 tube unions, 3/16 tube clamps. Replumbed DS & PS brake tubing from firewall unions & added Wildwood prop valves on top where space saver spare used to reside. Brake line from top of hill holder was removed & replaced with new line to prop valve. See diagonal line in front of booster. Yes, some here disagree with using pipe threads in a braking system, but if you use a high pres sealant such as Leak Lock it will be fine. I've used this stuff for years for steam, hi pres hydraulic & other demanding applications & it will be fine. These Wildwood valves are 1/8 NPTF in & out ports. There are metric valves available but these are EU bubble flare only. Test drove wagon after bleeding with initial valve adj at 4 turns in. Gave both valves one turn more & will see if more is needed. But for now the braking is back where it began after the rear disc conversion. Edited June 3, 2017 by czny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torry33 Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Nice build man!I'm running 235/75/15 on my 86 w/EJ swap no problem.5 inch lift,i like the clearance for Montana back roadin! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 (edited) Nice build man!I'm running 235/75/15 on my 86 w/EJ swap no problem.5 inch lift,i like the clearance for Montana back roadin! Thanks Torry. Given that Photosuckit has sent me a ransom email, we'll see how much longer my pics display now. No one likes being extorted! EDIT: Photosuckers has seen fit to close my account due to Facebookers abusing a public folder. Thanks ginks! Edited July 19, 2017 by czny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 (edited) Installed 4x6 LED headlights outboard on my GL before house hunting trip to Montana. This trip would've been better with an EJ engine but this the last hurrah for this EA82. Its a dog but a dependable one. 1380 miles in 3 days of rowing the stick on hills.Had to strike while the iron was hot. Pic is along the 28N in Idaho approaching the 93N then thru the Bitterroot Mtns. on way to Hamilton MT. https://www.google.com/maps/place/Bitterroot+Mountains/@45.8001599,-114.4418378,9z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x535915a184e5f8c5:0xfba63605bbcae42b!8m2!3d45.8076982!4d-113.9389673 Saw a herd of pronghorn antelope along the way. Edited September 6, 2018 by czny More travel fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted August 23, 2018 Author Share Posted August 23, 2018 Been awhile since I had posted in this thread. Started another image hosting acct. to repair damage done by greedy Photobucket. Everywhere you go in internet auto land you'll see their wreckage. Added 32 inch light bar to roof because deer & elk happen fast in NW MT at night. Mounted light bar to roof with rivnuts & 1.5 inch aluminum angle to stiffen roof & add support for light bar. Light bar is advertised as 180 W & when on it drops charging voltage only 0.2V, so not too worried. Added a single round 27 W LED light to roof rack in rear for work light. Sand blasted aluminum angle & painted with OD green self etching primer. Allen bolt is 8 mm & philips screws are 1/4-20 for lots of shear in thin roof metal. Sealed to roof with Dow Corning 832 silicone adhesive sealant. Steel rivnuts set into roof beforehand, of course. Added spare tire mount, high lift jack & shovel mounts to roof rack too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 (edited) Tucson AZ trip for weekend. Spent time with sister & brother in law from Friday to Tuesday early AM. Went to Kartchner Caverns AZ state park. We did tour of "Throne room" & "Rotunda room" - almost 100% humidity & approx 72*F. No cellphone nor cameras are allowed in caves. No multiple layers of clothing are needed to keep warm in that. They'll be changing over to LED lighting to help keep heat down. Bats were in another chamber. Neat stuff. https://azstateparks.com/kartchner/ Tried out 180W curved light bar in eastern Tucson. Outstanding. Rear 27W work light is just enough too. Edited August 30, 2018 by czny More fun info 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRustyWolf Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 That is a legit wagon. Just picked up an '86 recently. I'm definitely going to want some of those fog lights for winter here in the PNW. Any recommendations on fog lights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted September 2, 2018 Author Share Posted September 2, 2018 9 hours ago, TheRustyWolf said: That is a legit wagon. Just picked up an '86 recently. I'm definitely going to want some of those fog lights for winter here in the PNW. Any recommendations on fog lights? Quick search didn't find the same ones I used. But maybe on Amazon or fleabay you might. Here's one result on fleabay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hella-008284811-FF75-Series-Driving-Fog-Light/231668201798 Gotta keep those mounted close in to body if under front bumper,......... PM sent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted September 3, 2018 Share Posted September 3, 2018 Hella FF series are so sweet. I have them on another car and they're very effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted September 11, 2019 Author Share Posted September 11, 2019 Been a long time. Had to replace speedo head in the cluster as oil from the trans moved up the speedo cable & into the drive & driven speedo cups. Erratic speed reading & always when most inconvenient, of course. It's talked about here: https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/93332-speedometer-intermittantly-goes-crazy/ Pulled speedo cable, flushed out inside & cable with brake cleaner then blew out with air. Ordered a new cable, Pioneer # CA-3108 & they're available from Summit, 48.75 " length so that will accommodate higher lifts . My original cable worked just fine with 4 inch lift. Brother P-Touch mileage labels to satisfy my insurance Co when comes time to renew. Cleaned the heater fan switch contacts & greased them with electronics anti-oxidizer grease. Inside stationary contacts were green with oxides. No fan action at all. Also deleted the 60k mile EGR switch while I had the cluster apart. Frankenmotor to be installed has no EGR. Why have another light to worry about? Right turn arrow in cluster points at EGR trip switch. 2 screws & its gone. EGR trip switch below...another Cacafornia smog relic, https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/79307-egr-light/ Decision to replace the whole speedo head was because of cracked drive gear in head input. Might affect odometer readings if it shattered, eh? Use electronics contact cleaner only - white body is styrene plastic & melts if you use anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted September 12, 2019 Author Share Posted September 12, 2019 (edited) Also did the green LED illumination in the cluster thing. Much better at night. Some light bleeding into RH turn signal arrow - I'll get to that later when I have the dash apart again. Edited September 12, 2019 by czny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted 5 hours ago Author Share Posted 5 hours ago (edited) Been a really long time since this thread was updated. Had my share of local trouble with attempted theft and damages. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/186359-beware-of-mevotech-parts/ Decided to go with KYB 2wd struts(new old stock) and Lesjofors '94 Kia Sephia front springs(4044208 on RA), new KYB strut mounts(SM5364, IF you can find 'em). New KYB 4wd rear shocks with better looking, less rusty springs. Rear cross member with gaps in mounts filled with urethane. Superpro front strut rod bushings(SPF2534K). Superpro new moustache bar bushings(same as rear diff mount bushing). Rides much better without all the bounciness on highways. Combination of Sachs 4wd struts with those Lesjofors springs, they're about .040" thicker than stock, will get you another inch of lift in front. Combination of those and 2wd rear KYB shocks + stock rear springs OR 4wd rear shocks with Honda Accord front springs may ride even front to rear. Just a suggestion. KYB 2wd strut, Lesjofors spring, KYB mount, SJR 4" lift. For $86 shipped this McPherson spring compressor was worth it. MUCH safer to work around than those hook compressors that tend to slip and always at the wrong time. Be sure to lube the threads and round part with gear oil. Edited 5 hours ago by czny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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