'87 GL 4WD wagon-czny

[bratman18]

After seeing your rig, I'm really hoping the tires fit on a 2" lifted rig. That's the combo I have, but haven't put together yet!

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

Awesome Subaru, I Really Like how you're Building it!

 

 

... Bought some MOOG cc856 springs & swapped them out on the last day of last year. ...

 

Could I Ask about the Car / Model \ Year those Moog CC856 Coil Springs belong for?

 

I Used another Moog Part Number, as you can read: ~► Here.

 

 

... smaller rolling radius tires...

 

Could I Ask Overall Size? ... 25"?

 

Kind Regards.

Edited January 5, 2013 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
The Word "Here" is a Web Link. ;)

[czny]

Thanks!!

 

I just picked out one based on original Tempo spring ID, wire size, etc from here:

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/Universal_Coil_Springs.asp

 

Plus lots of reading about what others had chosen(cc852, cc854).

The Grabber 27x8.50x14s rolling radius on 14x6 Mazda truck whls are actually 12.5" from pavement to centerline of axle.

So yes, the dia could be described as 25".

[peacewize]

The only thing I'm jealous of is that since moving back to eastern wa the nearest pap is over an hour and a half away. I miss the days of wondering around the yard for hours swiping good parts. Nice looking car very clean work I love it. Just an idea but what about covering the brake lines with shrink tubing?

[czny]

Nice looking car very clean work I love it. Just an idea but what about covering the brake lines with shrink tubing?

Thanks!!

 

The brake lines are already covered - wrapped with vinyl tape & then electrical loom spiral nylon to boot. See posts 9 & 10.

Thanks for the suggestion anyway.

[czny]

Found some roller rockers from a 97 Lego L ej22 & another pair of heads from a 93 Lego ej22 for the Frankenmotor. Decided on using the 97 rockers with 97 cams after reading up on camshafts & rocker compatibilities.
Here's some pics of the camshafts showing the differences along with the rocker assemblies:

 

Edited August 23, 2018 by czny
Repair damage done to thread by photosuckit

[kanurys]

How did the switch back to original (I'm assuming you're referring to stock) length radius rods perform? How did this compare to your lengthened rods?

 

I really like your build. I have the same vehicle down to the color with a 4" SJR lift in it. I'm running a 99 Phase II EJ22, which seems like a pretty good balance for power/weight/efficiency.

 

I have similar wheel hop and tire wear issues. If I'm taking off from a stop I have to finess the pedal, even on dry pavement.

[czny]

How did the switch back to original (I'm assuming you're referring to stock) length radius rods perform? How did this compare to your lengthened rods?

 

I really like your build. I have the same vehicle down to the color with a 4" SJR lift in it. I'm running a 99 Phase II EJ22, which seems like a pretty good balance for power/weight/efficiency.

 

I have similar wheel hop and tire wear issues. If I'm taking off from a stop I have to finess the pedal, even on dry pavement.

 

The road manners improved a lot especially after going to stock length rods, progressive wound front springs & setting the toe-in to about 1/8". Noticed the strut mounts had deformed from the extended rods some. That can't be a good thing - some have had their mount come apart!

 

Still have some wheel hop necessitating finesse with the go pedal on starts. I'm thinking it could be the EA engine mounts stretching under torque causing the DOJs to bind slightly - more pronounced with larger tires.

 

 

When I finally can get the car behind the gate to do the Frankenmotor switch definitely will do some looking at the engine & trans mounts, torque rod situation.

[JacksonRally]

Very clean car and great work on the bushings. Curious as to your future suspension plans...

 

Suspension will be the next hurdle on my car once my EJ swap is done and reliable.

[JacksonRally]

 

Hard take-off in 1st still had wheel hop so checked all the engine & trans mounts. Engine mounts were fine but the trans mounts may as well been made of artists' gum rubber erasers. The mounts were allowing the drivetrain to shift forward when the tires bit hard & the torque went way up, pushing the DS axle into the engine cross-member & making a grinding sound.

So for stop-gap I added pieces of steel to the mounts to limit travel. Left 3/16" gaps for mount flex up, down & forward, back. They clatter when starting the engine but thereafter are OK. Big improvement.

 

 

I had the same issue with my old used broken transmission mounts. And I pretty much did the same as you except I did not leave a gap for some movement. I just bridged it and they are pretty much solid.

[czny]

Very clean car and great work on the bushings. Curious as to your future suspension plans...

 

Suspension will be the next hurdle on my car once my EJ swap is done and reliable.

 

Let's just say I'm leaning toward lower A-arms & moving those 1" forward.

[JacksonRally]

Let's just say I'm leaning toward lower A-arms & moving those 1" forward.

 

 

Excellent. I have my list of what I need to make and parts to hunt down. Im definetly going to a "A" arm. I am going to keep it a strut but will be making or manipulating another strut. Different knuckles and axles. The rear is easy and I WILL have an air locker back there.

 

I think I moved my front axle centerline forward 1.25'' right off the bat to clear the 30'' tires. I may bring that back to 1.00'' to keep the compound cv angle happier. We'll see, the new cvs will allow more angle too.

[kanurys]

Can you elaborate on which tempo strut mount you used and how you fit it to the chassis?

 

I came across these in the 1993 Ford Tempo 3.0L section: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=203514&cc=1139712

 

which give ±1.25° camber...

Edited March 17, 2013 by kanurys

[czny]

On 3/16/2013 at 6:04 PM, kanurys said:

Can you elaborate on which tempo strut mount you used and how you fit it to the chassis?

 

I came across these in the 1993 Ford Tempo 3.0L section: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=203514&cc=1139712

 

which give ±1.25° camber...

Sorry to take so long to answer. Been busy with a couple bigger 4x4s.

 

I didn't use the strut mounts per se. I used the upper spring pieces from the 88-94 Tempo/Topaz which hold the upper strut mount thrust bearing.

Then ground down the top surface to fit the EA front strut 'umbrella' shaped pieces for the spring perches. 

..........................................................

Edited August 23, 2018 by czny

[kanurys]

Cool, thanks.

 

It looks as if the main difference in springs is that the auto trans can impose more output torque on the system. Also, the springs you chose (CC856) can support a heavier weight. Most of the books say "w/ A/C". I think I'll do the same but I'm finding it difficult to get the upper pieces like you show which are ground down.

[czny]

You'll like the ride of these cc856s better than the straight wound Tempo springs. Much easier on the back & kidneys! heh heh heh.

 

I chose these for the simple reason that I intend to add heavy things to the nose - SJR bumper, nerf bar, winch,  more lights.

[kanurys]

I can't wait! That's my plan too. I'll probably make a set of bumpers after the front end rebuild, so that's perfect. Maybe I'll cut them at 13.5" or 14 in anticipation of that.

 

Any plans for the rear springs?

[czny]

I can't wait! That's my plan too. I'll probably make a set of bumpers after the front end rebuild, so that's perfect. Maybe I'll cut them at 13.5" or 14 in anticipation of that.

 

Any plans for the rear springs?

For now just the stock rear springs with KYBs.

May try the Honda fronts in rear, but the Toy 4 runner front shocks would reduce travel a little.

Have 2 or 3 non-Sub vehicles to work on first. 2 are 4x4s.

[kanurys]

That's exactly why I didn't do the 4runner/Tacoma shock mod. That and I don't want more suspension lift in the back. There's already 1" stress from the SJR 4" lift. I don't think I need more clearance, just more load capacity. Let me know how the Honda springs work out.

Edited March 29, 2013 by kanurys

[czny]

Been awhile since posted any changes on the wagon. 88 DL headlight buckets with 8000*K 35W HIDs outer & 60/55W halogen inners. 3 relays controlling all headlights/foglights - low beam outers, then high outers + high inners, fog light switch on dash to control inners low + fog lights.

 

Oh yeah, SJR tube bumper!

.........................................................

 

Just high enough on low beam that some, not all, move out of my field of illumination at night.

Edited August 23, 2018 by czny

[kanurys]

Nice Work. I like the light conversion. I put dual beam DDM 4500K HID's in the stock housings with good results. Now I'm eyeing bumpers everywhere. What did you use to black out the grill?

[czny]

Nice Work. I like the light conversion. I put dual beam DDM 4500K HID's in the stock housings with good results. Now I'm eyeing bumpers everywhere. What did you use to black out the grill?

Thanks!

Abrasive blasted the headlight buckets, lightly sanded the trim pieces & grill. VHT epoxy coated the buckets & valance, Krylon plastic painted the rest.

Was fortunate to find a complete 88DL headlight system with grill on a 50% off weekend.

 

Here's some reading material for those interested:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/110898-dl-square-headlight-upgrades/?hl=%2Bheadlight+%2Bconversion&do=findComment&comment=930708

and

http://offroadingsubarus.com/headlight_relaymod.html

Edited April 23, 2014 by czny

[kanurys]

After the reading session, I fully concur about the light cut-off problem. My stock 1 piece glass units don't cut the upper edge off very nicely. It works great in canyons and the forest, but is poor for street driving. I may go the route of hella 500ff's as low and high beams, one day. They're cheap and super bright for the wattage. I have them in place of my fogs on the 1998 Legacy Outback - you know - everyone has broken fog lights on those. I have them setup on a toggle to cancel with my highs or my lows, depending on selection.

 

Not to make this into a lighting discussion^^, here's another subject.

 

I figured you'd do the painting right, so I thought I'd ask about your process. Thanks for that. Also, any thoughts on the SJR bumper? What do you like about it? What would you do differently? What will you do for the rear?

 

-SK

[czny]

I do like the SJR bumpers. I will add to the front - a bull guard from a 83 GL wagon I had found at the local PnP. Built out from the bumper with like sized tube just far enough for a winch plate & tied into the cross member with tabs for a skid plate.

 

Scott also built this rear bumper for me with one end open for a 2 pc fishing rod.

 

Found these black trailer hubs that fit a flat center Mazda 6 lug whl on fleabay.

 

Glad the end of the tube is open - thinking I'll add a RH swing away tire carrier like this(posts 9-13):

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/1027758-mild-wheeler-dd-72-blazer-build.html

 

Could put some fishing rod clips inside the wagon if the end is closed off with a spindle for the spare mount.

Edited April 25, 2014 by czny

[czny]

Hadn't done much with this wagon for some time. Drove down to Tucson AZ (7 1/2 hrs) to visit my sister on Cinco de Mayo weekend. What a traffic disaster on a Friday at evening rush hour on the 5th!

PS inner CV boot had a small tear in it, throwing grease everywhere on the trip there. Cleaned up mess then gooped some red silicone on hole for trip home. It held long enough to make it home.

 

One week later the CEL comes on while cruising at 2500-3300 Rs full hot & then goes out(!??!) CEL codes 11, 13, 24 & 33.  Checked distrib - OK. Ck'd & cleaned IAC - OK. Ck'd speedo reed switch at low speed - OK.

Ck'd all harness connections for loose wire crimps - good. Ck'd DS engine connectors - good. Ck'd ECM conns under dash - some bad crimps & dirty ECM pins. Reset ECM to clear codes. No more CEL!

 

Next to foul up was the brakes. Brake light came on telling me fluid was low, but why. Found rear brake proportioning valve in back underneath had been leaking.

Knew braking wasn't near as good as 4 whl disc should be. Notice stain on crosstube - must've been an emergency hard stop that burst the seals.

 

Now how to fix with no compatible Subies left at local PNP(?)

Edited June 3, 2017 by czny