99 Impreza OB Sport ... Clutch Fork Replacement

[99ImprezaOSport]

So, the dreaded (pardon my french ... ) clutch fork has cracked. (Image below) So it's either an engine pull or tranny drop I guess??? Any magic tricks for replacement??? PLEASE SAY YES...

 

Are there any "upgrades" for this clutch fork?

 

link to image: 99 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Clutch Fork Cracked

[Fairtax4me]

Separate engine and trans, replace clutch fork.

:-p

 

Not quite that easy and a few things to consider. How old is the current clutch, and has the separator plate on the back of the engine ever been resealed?

 

If you don't know the answer to either, probably a good time to put a clutch in, and pull the engine for the separator plate and wrist pin cover O-ring.

 

Clutch fork is only available from the dealer as far as I know. Or Junkyard if you want to take a gamble. It's only like $30 brand new.

[davebugs]

I always pull engine. Reseal it(baffle plate, crank, cam seals), maybe timing belt (including idlers,WP, etc.)

 

Buy a new fork and the 2 clips for it.

[99ImprezaOSport]

Separate engine and trans, replace clutch fork.

:-p

 

 

Not quite that easy and a few things to consider. How old is the current clutch, and has the separator plate on the back of the engine ever been resealed?

 

If you don't know the answer to either, probably a good time to put a clutch in, and pull the engine for the separator plate and wrist pin cover O-ring.

 

Clutch fork is only available from the dealer as far as I know. Or Junkyard if you want to take a gamble. It's only like $30 brand new.

 

about 80K on the ACT replacement at 190K now at 270K

Separator plate now metal and rear main also replaced about 80K ago

 

ONLY $30 ... what a bargain. and the engine pull/tranny drop either a good day on the ground without a tranny jack or engine pull without a lift. SWEET, perhaps I'll get two

 

 

I guess I'll just be biting the bullet and do this job all over again: (CLICK)

without getting the heads done...

[Fairtax4me]

Shouldn't be all that bad then. Drop the exhaust manifold out of the way, bolt some 2x4s together and prop them between the heads so they join in the center under the oil pan. Use a jack under the 2x4s to lift the engine up off the mounts and slide it forward enough to separate the bell housing just enough to get your hands in there to remove the TOB clips, pop the old fork off and pop the new one on. Ratchet straps can help hold it still while you have your hands in the bell housing.

Use heavy lithium grease on the pivot to prevent it from binding and wearing.

[Mikevan10]

Taxman,

 

Any chance you could expand on your engine handling system? I cannot picture what you are describing.

 

Also, is this what people mean when they say they "pull the engine" instead of dropping the trans to replace the clutch? They are just moving the engine forward a few inches? And you can do this without disconnecting wiring or draining the coolant?

 

Mike V.

[99ImprezaOSport]

If you have the room and a cherry picker, it is just as easy to yank the engine instead of getting under the car and tear the suspension apart. I have done both and the engine is pretty easy. I find it much easier to stand up and work than lie on my back even with a creeper.

 

You can also pull the radiator and move the engine up if you do not have a cherry picker but for 150.00 you can pick one up new at harbor freight or used off of craigslist.

 

Here's a pictorial from my last engine pull:

CLICK HERE

[Fairtax4me]

Taxman,

 

Any chance you could expand on your engine handling system? I cannot picture what you are describing.

 

Also, is this what people mean when they say they "pull the engine" instead of dropping the trans to replace the clutch? They are just moving the engine forward a few inches? And you can do this without disconnecting wiring or draining the coolant?

 

Mike V.

 

To "pull the engine", usually entails using an engine lift ( aka cherry picker)to pick the engine up completely out of the car. Put it on a stand, bench, whatever, so it can be worked on without the car being in the way. Leaned over the fender, back aches, can't reach that damn bolt in the back corner.

 

The method described in the previous post is basically to build a cradle to lift the engine up from below and move it while still technically in the car, without damaging the oil pan by putting a jack head through it. The pans on these are kinda flimsy, and if they get dented the pickup tube can get blocked very easily, then you get no oil pressure.

 

Radiator doesn't HAVE to come out but it gives you more room if you remove it, plus the hoses might stress the plastic end tanks and crack them when they get smooshed forward. The idea is that basically, if you had an engine lift, you would remove everything necessary to pull the engine out of the car, except that this method allows you room to work on the clutch if you don't have access to an engine lift and can't physically get the engine out.

The nice thing about these (aluminum block, aluminum heads) is that they don't weight THAT much. If you have a couple strong friends, you can grab the engine on each side and actually pick it up and remove it by hand.

Build a platform or cradle to put the jack under, use the jack to raise the engine off the mounts, hold the transmission up with a ratchet strap or another jack. Roll the engine jack towards the front of the car once the engine and trans are separated. (this is the only really tricky part since it can take some persuasion in the form of a large prybar and BFH to get them apart sometimes) Then once the engine is moved forward , tie it to the front radiator support/header panel (remove the radiator or cover it with a piece of plywood) with a ratchet strap or something to keep it from tipping back and cutting your fingers off or something horrible of that nature.

[Mikevan10]

Now, before I make any comments and ask any questions, I am NOT just trying to be argumentative about this. Believe me, I have struggled with these things enough that all I am trying to do is decide which method is easiest so I can make it my standard method. So anyway, here goes:

 

On Subarus, I have always dropped the trans to do clutch related work. As everyone knows, there is a fair amount of work inolved in doing so, but in my experience the only tricky parts of this are separating the engine from the trans (gets stuck on the dowel pins) and, upon reinstallation, aligning the trans and engine and then mating them (I work on a not so smooth driveway and I do not have a transmission jack).

 

What I am trying to understand is how pulling the engine (and leaving the transmission in place under the car) would make either of these challenges (or the whole job) easier. Separating the engine and trans would present the same problems I would think. I guess mating them back together could be a little easier since I would not have to be trying to roll the jacks on my driveway...

 

But, either way, you still have to detach the exhaust system and dissamble the lower ball joints from the control arms in order to detach the axles.

 

And pulling the engine requires additional electrical (wiring) work plus you have to break into the cooling system and remove the radiator.

 

Am I missing something that makes pulling the engine the clear choice?

 

Thanks as always,

 

Mike V.

[Mikevan10]

Now, before I make any comments and ask any questions, I am NOT just trying to be argumentative about this. Believe me, I have struggled with these things enough that all I am trying to do is decide which method is easiest so I can make it my standard method. So anyway, here goes:

 

On Subarus, I have always dropped the trans to do clutch related work. As everyone knows, there is a fair amount of work inolved in doing so, but in my experience the only tricky parts of this are separating the engine from the trans (gets stuck on the dowel pins) and, upon reinstallation, aligning the trans and engine and then mating them (I work on a not so smooth driveway and I do not have a transmission jack).

 

What I am trying to understand is how pulling the engine (and leaving the transmission in place under the car) would make either of these challenges (or the whole job) easier. Separating the engine and trans would present the same problems I would think. I guess mating them back together could be a little easier since I would not have to be trying to roll the jacks on my driveway...

 

But, either way, you still have to detach the exhaust system and dissamble the lower ball joints from the control arms in order to detach the axles.

 

And pulling the engine requires additional electrical (wiring) work plus you have to break into the cooling system and remove the radiator.

 

Am I missing something that makes pulling the engine the clear choice?

 

Thanks as always,

 

Mike V.

[Mikevan10]

Oops! Obviously you don't have to detach the axles if you leave the trans in that car. So there is a difference. Probably a good half hour of work saved in total (remove and reinstall).

[davebugs]

There is so much you can check over and do on the engine while it's out. You can leave the radiator in (although I usually have it out to be cleaned/tested) just make sure to put cardboard or an old chunk of paneling in there after you take the fans off to stop from accidentally damaging the rad.

 

I hate working on my back. Actually I have a lift and can do it either way and always pull the engine.

[Fairtax4me]

But, either way, you still have to detach the exhaust system and dissamble the lower ball joints from the control arms in order to detach the axles.

 

When removing the transmission the exhuast system can be removed as one whole piece.

The axles can be easily slid off of the output stubs once the transmission is loose, without having to do any work on the front suspension.

 

The advantage to removing the engine is accessibility, as Nipper said.

I've done clutches under the car, it's 100x easier to replace the clutch when the engine is out, it's easier to make sure everything is cleaned properly, there is tons more room to work (you can walk around, don't have to crawl back under the car to grab that socket you need that you left over there).

 

Removing either can be done in about an hour and a half once you have a technique down and know the steps that need to be done. What work needs to be done, and what tools I have available are usually what determine which way I go on this type of thing. If it's just a clutch, probably gonna pull the engine, double check the oil seals and reseal the separator plate while I'm at it. If the front seal on the trans is leaking or the main shaft bearing is making noise I'll drop the trans.