Hitoshi Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I'm looking at my Bentley manual for how to swap out the front break pads. It calls for the use of a Subaru service tool 9255 90000. Where can I get this or is there something else I can use instead? I just want to make sure I have everything before I start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Anything that works to turn the caliper in. You don't push the caliper in with a clamp or press type tool it screws into the caliper. I have used a pipe with notches recessed in it for years and that works good or there is a cube tool that most auto parts stores sell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitoshi Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Okay thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi subbie Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Power built has some thing you can use. Its like a Cube with different shaped prongs on it. You attach it to a ratchet and wined the Caliper in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stubies Subie Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 the last brake job I did was easy, I went to harbor freight tools, and bought one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/four-wheel-disc-brake-piston-tool-68972.html I then hooked it to an extension off of my variable speed drill, and slowly wound in the piston, made the job super easy and the tool costs less then $4.00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 You can also use a pair of needle nose pliers in a pinch. Just put the tips of the pliers in the notches of the caliper piston, push in and turn at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricardo Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 An angle grinder spanner will also do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dawsonator Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 For pistons that are hard to turn a channel lock around the outside does work but you have to be careful not to grab the rubber seal and rip it, and if you get deep marks in the piston that could rip the rubber seal. I usually use a channel lock to get it started then a needle nose to finish the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O.C.D. Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Needlenose and some patience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 If it is difficult, then open the bleeder while turning the piston in. It should get much easier this way. You should also bleed the brakes after doing it this way though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noahkort Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 http://www.atcentre.ru/price.html?catn=925590000&proiz=SUBARU&marko=WRENCH,BRK%20PISTON&price=5100.00%20%D1%80%D1%83%D0%B1.&metod=cardtov 5100.00 somethings for the original tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Ummm, don't use the channel locks on the outside of the piston. Screw the piston in using the notches on the front - I like the pipe method with notches cut out. You can make it yourself. Push and turn with one hand. 1.5" diameter pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 also note the correct position of the caliper to allow the pokie out thing on back of pad to slid into v-notch on caliper face. You probably knew that but.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) If it is difficult, then open the bleeder while turning the piston in. It should get much easier this way. You should also bleed the brakes after doing it this way though.Or you could use a clear hose going into a bottle with clean brake fluid so that it can't suck up air only clean brake fluid, just make sure there is no air in the hose, just brake fluid.Like a one man bleeding system. Edited May 10, 2013 by mikaleda 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Where did you get a Bentley manual for a Subaru? They used to be the best after-market manuals, but they don't cover everything. Their Corolla manual for the late 70's cars was brilliant, better than the factory one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 So how'd it go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pressingonward Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 If you have an OReilley auto parts in the area, they should lend out (with a credit card deposit that you get back once you return the tool) a brake piston retractor tool set like this one: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W89200/N0675.oap?ck=Search_N0675_-1_-1&pt=N0675&ppt=C0067 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitoshi Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 I forget where I got my Bentley now. It was online somewhere but not Books4Cars. They didn't have it. Maybe Amazon or eBay. Anyways, I know this post is over a year old but I just got my license back and finally was able to get the work done on the front breaks. I ended up getting a break tool from O'Reilly's and it was fine. Breaks are feeling a lot better now. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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