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my lifted subi


ryot1
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yeah she hasnt let me down yet accept for the usual break something simple and fix it lol...

buy the way does anyone know where or if someone makes steel or at least stronger transvers links i keep breaking them ....

What do you mean breaking? Squirting all the juice out? Yours are probably liquid filled for less vibrations. Those break all the time. Just get some off a 04-07 STI. You shouldnt have a problem with those. 

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What do you mean breaking? Squirting all the juice out? Yours are probably liquid filled for less vibrations. Those break all the time. Just get some off a 04-07 STI. You shouldnt have a problem with those. 

no they sheer off right after the bolt to the subframe and right before the o where the rubber piece and nut go to hold it to the a arm ....basically that flat piece that the bolt gos thru keeps sheering off on both sides ...its happend three times ...

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no they sheer off right after the bolt to the subframe and right before the o where the rubber piece and nut go to hold it to the a arm ....basically that flat piece that the bolt gos thru keeps sheering off on both sides ...its happend three times ...

Must have way too much force on it. How is your lift constructed?

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Very strange. We've never had one break, even on the rally car where we break wheels, struts and lower control arms. I would try running the factory bolt through there. You will obviously need the proper nut too. The factory bolt is a flange head to disperse the clamping force more evenly on the large slotted hole. Or you can retain whatever bolt it is you are using and run a large diameter and thick washer. My guess is that the mating surface of that bolt is barely larger than the slotted hole, so it is trying to work its way into the hole and the only option it has is to open the hole. This will result in it cracking at the weakest point. Try it and see what happens.

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Very strange. We've never had one break, even on the rally car where we break wheels, struts and lower control arms. I would try running the factory bolt through there. You will obviously need the proper nut too. The factory bolt is a flange head to disperse the clamping force more evenly on the large slotted hole. Or you can retain whatever bolt it is you are using and run a large diameter and thick washer. My guess is that the mating surface of that bolt is barely larger than the slotted hole, so it is trying to work its way into the hole and the only option it has is to open the hole. This will result in it cracking at the weakest point. Try it and see what happens.

thanks i will try ...like i said this is the third one and it hasent happend to any one else yet ...soo im stumped too

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  • 4 weeks later...

i know im sopposed to start tieing all the blocks in, maybe thatll stop the breaks ..i think ...but my friend needs to stop falling threw !!!!!!!lol ....hes been busy so we hadnt got around to any welds yet.....and thanks again i love my car!!!!! it keeps giving me spoob but i cant be rid of her, not yet lol

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I'd be willing to bet money that individual blocks + thrashing = broken links. I'm looking to do about 2-3 inches of body lift on mine and still going to tie it together. That's a pretty good stress point and probably one of the weaker ones, so I'll bet a few bucks worth of steel and an hour of welding will solve the breaking problem.

 

The wagon is looking great though. My sister is going to school in east L.A. Sometime when I'm down that way, you interested in taking the wagons out for a romp? Maybe even get a gathering together like the guys in the northwest do. Gotta be some other trail ready subes in southern California.

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yeah i agree i dont know why i beat around the bush for so long but i cant wait to get her welded ....and when you come out here im more than down i know every trail in big bear you need to know ....trails for days ...maybe a camping trip with a bunch of soobs would be sick ?????? 

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