Cruise/Accel vibration

[86 Wonder Wedge]

91 Loyale, 2WD, 5 speed (single range :-p ) 123K, regreased/booted original Drivers side axle, unknown new/reman axle Pass side

 

O.k. Upon medium/hard accel and 30+ crusing, I get this short wavelength vibration through the wheel, shifter and floor.

 

Both axles have the original roll pin in them, and both "move" when shaken at the trans. At first I panicked thinking the diff/stubs were worn beyond belief, but upon reading, it seems normal... However, the pass side (non original axle) seems to have more play at the inner joint/stub shaft. I get lateral play AND transverse play (about 50% MORE than driver's side)

 

I've been on the hunt for a good, low mile original to clean up and put in hearing the quality issues with reman and even new axles, but they aren't a dime a dozen around here (NE Ohio...)

 

Also, hubs are tight, steering is tight, no nasty clunks or grinding (but I DO hear a 2nd gear whine...) and after a new axle seal, I believe the driver's side (when I refreshed the axle) seal is leaking.. but still checking vs. PS pump leak.. :/

 

Any other ideas?

[djellum]

id rotate the tires first. if it changes a lot when you do that, check tire balance, air, etc.

 

brakes wouldnt be a bad thing to check, mine has some sticky calipers and other issues. when they act up it makes the wheel shimmy.

[86 Wonder Wedge]

Actually, new set of tires and already rotated around, and no changes. Brakes are also new(er) and work great, no shudder.. I'm just about sold on the damn axle.. now to find a good used one to refresh and soldier on.. until the ej204 finds its way into my engine bay..

[edrach]

Does the vibration disappear the instant you let off on the gas? If so, that's the classic symptom of a bad DOJ (inner axle joint). From your description you probably know which side to change first.

[86 Wonder Wedge]

Pretty much. I think the OTR are to blame SLIGHTLY for the vibration at higher speeds (since I can rock back and forth by hand, fairly easily, but no slop..) but that DOJ is a JOKE.

 

ANYWAY, SOLVED THE PROBLEM (well, 95% of it).

 

Had to swing by a wrecker that somehow still had 2 non-aftermarket EA82 axles. (For NE Ohio, that's amazing...)

 

Got there, and they were both remans ( ) HOWEVER, one was a subaru reman! It hadn't been on the car in YEARS and had some surface rust on the bearing and seal surfaces, but cleaned and resurfaced those, cleaned and rebooted the joints (and new high-moly grease) and slapped her in. The new DOJ slid right on, but had a MUCH more solid mounting to the stub than the old axle. New roll pin, and the shudder is GONE.

 

Now, I will say I believe the roll pin had a lot to contribute to this. It only took half the effort to remove the existing one versus the new one. What I believe was happening is that the old axle (which was an EMPI, btw) had a smaller roll pin hole than the stub shaft (since the roll pins used vs new one were different diameters) and the axle was sort of "pivoting" on the roll pin on the stub shaft. I also believe this is whats going on on the driver's side even though that axle and roll pin are original (when I refreshed the other axle. It still has a slight wobble compared to the "new" pass side).

 

TL;DR Removed unknown EMPI axle, installed subaru reman and new roll pin, problem solved.

 

EDIT: Also compared the the EMPI axle (LARGE DOJ cup and large diameter shaft) to the subaru reman (small, grooved DOJ cup and small dia shaft) and the subaru reman is AT LEAST 30% lighter than the EMPI. I'll get some real weights soon, but that should help the PTW ratio... XD

Edited October 22, 2012 by 86 Wonder Wedge