Brake drag after front wheel bearing replacement

[gadberry]

1981 GL wagon 4wd. 4" lift

 

I replaced the drivers side wheel bearings and replaced the axle while I was there but after I bolt on the brake caliper the outside pad is tight against the disc rotor. I felt like the axle was pulled thru the bearing housing and I have torqued the axle nut to 145 ft lbs. ( plus a little more)....

 

I guess I could shim the caliper with 2 washers to move the outside pad out and off the rotor but could this be caused from not seating the bearings or not pulling the axle thru the housing?

 

Any ideas would be appreciated. Ive got to fix it and then drive 5 hrs home ASAP.

 

Thanks!!

[TOONGA]

I believe that if you have torqued the castlelated nut up to 145 ft lbs and some then the shaft will be seated and not causing the problem.

 

Have you turned the brake piston back in, some times the piston slips out because of the residual pressure in the line. try that first before shimming with washers which isn't a good idea.

 

Remember turn it back in not push

 

TOONGA

[Gloyale]

Make sure that the caliper can slide on the pins as well.

[gadberry]

Thanks for the responses everyone, here's an update.

 

I rechecked the axle and used the hub to pull it thru by tightening the

castle nut (again) until i believed it was fully seated. The bearings 'rang'

like they were bottomed out when tapped lightly on the inner race too. so i again, lightly tapped the outer seal inward to confirm it was fully seated too.

 

Afterwards, i reattached the hub/rotor and torqued the castle nut but the

outter brake pad was still too tight after fully tightening the 2 caliper mounting bolts.. however, if I backed off those 2 bolts a 1/4 turn then i had

enough slack to spin the hub by hand, but with effort (not free spinning).

 

I was stuck, miles from home, so I decided to install the wheel/tire and take it for a spin to see what the hell.. the car drove fine; didn't pull with or without brakes applied and the drivers side hub was only slightly warmer than the passenger side hub after a 4 mile drive (drivers side was warm enough to hold the castle nut for 3-4 seconds bare fingers)

 

I then decided to take the car for a 20mile drive and the temperature on the two hubs were the same as before with the drivers side slightly warmer. So, without any other options, i decided to drive it home, 5 hrs on interstate and after 3hrs of driving i stopped for gas and the hubs weren't any warmer than the initial (non-scientific) temperature tests and I made it home without any problems.

 

Both front calipers were replaced last year from RockAuto as (fully loaded calipers with pads) so they are in good shape but they've been in sandy mud and then sat around all summer with only 120 miles driven on the care before this 260 mile one-way trip last saturday.

 

I've got a feeling that these brake pads may have been dragging slightly since their install and maybe assisted with the drivers side bearing failure.. I dunno but that's just a guess..

 

The drivers side wheel no longer 'clunks' when wiggled anymore, so the

bearings needed the replacement. Now, i have to get to that torn cv boot

on the passenger side.

 

that's the story; thanks again for offering assistance!

 

best regards

[Caboobaroo]

If it still feels tight, try turning the caliper piston back in, then pump the pedal back up.

[Gloyale]

Afterwards, i reattached the hub/rotor and torqued the castle nut but the

outter brake pad was still too tight after fully tightening the 2 caliper mounting bolts.. however, if I backed off those 2 bolts a 1/4 turn then i had

enough slack to spin the hub by hand, but with effort (not free spinning).

 

I have seen too long a bolt used for the caliper before. They stick out far enough to rub against the rotor.

Perhaps the bolts are too long? Have they been replaced with new ones ever? You can check the rotor for signs of rubbing.

 

Otherwise, I say again, lube sliders.