uniberp Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Is there a way to check/change rod bearings without splitting the cases? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Can't access them without splitting the block, I think. If they aren't making noise, they are good for a good number more miles, though. If you are chasing low oil pressure that's likely something else- loose bolts on the oil pump, pickup that is cracked, or worn out main bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Drop the pan and baffle plate and cut open the filter (with a FILTER CUTTER - you don't want to "create" misleading metal shavings) and check for metal. These are the only good ways to know what's going on inside it. The bearings are totally inaccessible without a complete tear down. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uniberp Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 Can't access them without splitting the block, I think. If they aren't making noise, they are good for a good number more miles, though. If you are chasing low oil pressure that's likely something else- loose bolts on the oil pump, pickup that is cracked, or worn out main bearings. Thanks. IMO, "noise" is relative on these engines. My '08 with 65k is not quiet, but it has no tick, slap, or tap. Me, I am now skeptical about this so-called "piston slap" noise. Funny how it got worse just before it turned into full-blown rod-knock. This one in the 99 is pending. After a normal commute, it taps every time around. One piston or one rod? My guess is a rod. Oil pressure is fine, AFAIK, although it is burning oil 1qt per tank, which I hate. BTW The solution of "knurling" pistons seems 'way iffy to me, with a built-in life expectancy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Knurling simply holds more oil to the skirts. Making them a little tighter and quieter. It works. It doesn't wear out because the knurling puts indentations in the skirt that don't wear off. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Is there a way to check/change rod bearings without splitting the cases? One advantage to changing your own oil and filter. Take a close look at the oil that is drained. If the rod bearings are going, you'll see the flakes in the drain pan. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Thanks. IMO, "noise" is relative on these engines. My '08 with 65k is not quiet, but it has no tick, slap, or tap. Me, I am now skeptical about this so-called "piston slap" noise. Funny how it got worse just before it turned into full-blown rod-knock. This one in the 99 is pending. After a normal commute, it taps every time around. One piston or one rod? My guess is a rod. Oil pressure is fine, AFAIK, although it is burning oil 1qt per tank, which I hate. BTW The solution of "knurling" pistons seems 'way iffy to me, with a built-in life expectancy. Well, when the rod bearings get loose enough the connecting rod big-end hits the block and knocks out a chunk, so at least then you know what it was! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 After a normal commute, it taps every time around. One piston or one rod? My guess is a rod. Doesn't seem like piston slap. Piston slap ussually is bad when cold, then goes away when the piston warms up and expands. Are you sure it's not valve noise? That is a solid rocker setup. Needs adjusted every 50k or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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