Oil pressure switch help needed

[rothell]

So I purchased A 90 Loyale A few months ago and have been fixing what I can when I can. When I got the car the oil pressure gauge didn't' work, needle is below zero. When you turn on the ignition switch the guage goes up to 85 then goes to zero. Start the car and the gauge goes way below zero. So I ordered a new oil pressure switch with gauge from rock auto ( Beck/Arnley part # 2011341 ) great part is it was only $3.64 (same part at advance is $50+) So I noticed the oil pressure switch I'm purchasing looks different than the current one installed on my Loyale. I assumed that they were the same diameter and thread and would fit in the same location. Well the part came today.

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Now I see that this part goes in a different port, which has what appears to be the factory plug. So I took out the plug, installed the new switch and oil pressure now works kinda. Turn on the ignition switch gauge does nothing (maybe this is how it is supposed to be?) Start the car, gauge is well below zero. Raise the rpms or drive, the highest oil pressure I get is dead on zero. I haven't removed the old switch

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because I don't have a plug for that port. I assume that the old switch is oil pressure switch with light. At least thats what I have figured out by looking at parts online at multiple websites. Now Assuming I have the correct switch NOW:confused: How do I get the gauge to work properly? Does anyone know the ohm values for the sending unit? Can I raise the resistance with a resistor to make the gauge work within the proper values? How can I tell if the motor is not original?

 

I know thats alots questions for such a simple thing but I really would like my oil pressure gauge to work especially since I have one. I hate dummy lights.

Thanks for any and all help in this issue.

[whistler]

I've never seen the sender unit in the bottom picture, the top one looks like the one that's on the ea81 in my brat. Regarding the gauge reading, I remember reading someone else's thread where they talked about taking the gauge cluster apart and adjusting the gauge so that it read correctly. I thought it was Jeszek: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?tab=visitor_messaging&u=17344&page=1#visitor_messaging but I'm not seeing it on his visitor messages as a writeup. I would do some searching. It may or may not pertain to you if it was an ea82 gauge cluster, but it's something to look at.

 

Tom

[jj421]

^^^

 

Yes, you don't need to get a new switch or anything. From what I've read, just take apart that cluster and move the needle, by hand, back to the zero position. I think what happens (based on what I've read) is some electrical connection grounds out, and the needle drops to below zero. Then it's like that until someone fixes it.

 

I have the issue in my car, but haven't done anything about it. There are too many things to remove for me (I'm kinda lazy), and I don't see it being worth doing. These oil pressure gauges aren't all too accurate (again, from what I've read), so they're almost useless. It's better to get an aftermarket gauge and get a better reading.

 

What I would do too, is while you have the cluster out of the dash, replace the backlighting to LEDs (Loyale 2.7 Turbo did a write-up of how to do so, along with how to take out the instrument cluster, here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=136231). This way, you knock out two birds with one stone.

[djellum]

you can get a cheap aftermarket oil gauge and it will work better. a lot of people talk trash about the stock gauges accuracy.

 

theres a couple different kinds of gauges (mechanical, electronic, etc), make sure your sender and whatever unit you use to read it are the same type.

[Gloyale]

You had a switch for oil light in there at first. Must have been from a DL model with no gauge.

 

Now you have a proper sender for the gauge. But your needles deflection is off.

 

Take lens off dash, turn key on.....carefully adjust needle to Zero.

[Dee2]

If your Loyale has a gauge then you need the unit shown in the top picture. The unit for the light will not work correctly.

 

Once you have the correct unit installed, then you will need to manually adjust the needle to zero it out. Zeroing out the gauge does require getting access to the instrument cluster. Not all that difficult.

 

After it has been zeroed out it will likely still continue to read pressure slightly lower than actual, but at least it will be reading a positive value. This has been my experience and I have read the same from others.

[rothell]

Thanks for all the info guys really just wanted to make sure I had the right part. Resetting the needle will have to wait until I take out the dash. My entire hvac system is full of rats nests. I'll probably be replacing the heater core as well. Now I'm thinking I want to do the led conversion on the dash lights. Why not:cool:

 

Thanks again to everyone, usmb is the best.

 

-Rothell