Steering wheel wobble during acceleration

[DavieGravy]

I've had an intermittent problem of my steering wheel wobbling only during acceleration. When I coast the problem goes away. Additionally, the car will pull to the left during acceleration and there's a loud clicking noise during right turns. This problem comes and goes intermittently. Does anyone know what the issue might be?

 

It's a 97 legacy outback (manual transmission)

[mikaleda]

Have you checked you boots on your steering rack? Clicking on turns could be a c.v wobble could be caused by that to. I would jack up the front of the car and check c.v for play also check Tyrod ends, ball joints and steering rack.

Edited December 14, 2012 by mikaleda

[johnceggleston]

the clicking sounds like an axle, CV issue.

i don't know how this ties in with a wobbling steering wheel, but i can see how it might.

[987687]

I'd go with CV axles as well. My GL was doing this, I was on the highway and only going up hills or when I got on the gas the wheel would wobble and the whole front of the car felt like it was going side to side.

400 miles later a CV overheated BAD, and when I stopped it cooled down, seized up and refused to drive anymore.

 

So I'm going with upset axle.

[idosubaru]

Your symptoms sounds like classic CV axle issues.

 

Has the axle ever been replaced, because if it has then this is even more likely.

 

Reboot a known good Subaru axle, available for $25 - $35 from a junk yard before you buy a new axle. Aftermarket axles suck. MPE is another solution, but more expensive. The only aftermarket worth trying ti EMPI.

 

Though - that it is intermittent is really strange, usually CV axles are fairly consistent under the same loads (turn, hill, acceleration).

 

I'd be concerned about tie rods and check those immediately, they are very dangerous to have go out.

[mikaleda]

Your symptoms sounds like classic CV axle issues.

 

Has the axle ever been replaced, because if it has then this is even more likely.

 

Reboot a known good Subaru axle, available for $25 - $35 from a junk yard before you buy a new axle. Aftermarket axles suck. MPE is another solution, but more expensive. The only aftermarket worth trying ti EMPI.

 

Though - that it is intermittent is really strange, usually CV axles are fairly consistent under the same loads (turn, hill, acceleration).

 

I'd be concerned about tie rods and check those immediately, they are very dangerous to have go out.

+1

I just saw a car yesterday sitting in the local mechanics shop they had broken Tie rod and lower ball joint not a pretty site

Edited December 14, 2012 by mikaleda

[1 Lucky Texan]

possibly the axle stub is not clicked into the diff fully.

[markjw]

Dont forget to make sure your engine mounts are tight. And especially chk out your transmission mounts.

[torxxx]

I almost bet its a cv axle. I had a nasty shimmy/wobble in my 98 5MT OB when I first bought it. Had a few mechanic buddies test drive it and they all swore up and down it was wheel bearings.

 

I changed out the drivers side axle (boot was original, intact to leaks) with a random EJ axle I had laying around the shop and the wobble stopped completely

 

Theres an issue with the Gen 1 OB and the axles causing vibration/wobble

[Gloyale]

It's the axle.

 

He said it's clicking.

 

The wobble is as the joint rotates, the balls are getting stuck roughly rolling in there tracks. This tries to keep the cv locked, and affects the angle of the wheel. since it can't wobble up and down (change camber), it rocks side to side.