Dinky26 Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 How in the hill sam do you get all the rear pan bolts off without pulling the engine? Maybe.....no, I am just not seeing how one gets to the bolts at the back of the pan:banghead: I'm sure it will be clear as day when one of you points this out to this unknowledged idiot here:-p Any way HELP.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 Holes in the cross-member and a long philips screw-driver, thats how :-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky26 Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share Posted January 7, 2013 Thanks I must be partially blind or the holes are full of gunk and oil:eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEECHBM69 Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 Thanks I must be partially blind or the holes are full of gunk and oil:eek: I had to take the motor mounts loose and jack the engine a little to get the angle right. Good luck. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessekrs123 Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 I got mine off and on no problem, but there are two bolts on each side (one circled in the above picture) that you have to approach at an angle. I'd use RTV or something to seal the new pan on, the factory cork gasket was hardly accurate and took a lot of fiddling to get it to fit right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
presslab Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 I love Loctite 518 for lots of stuff, including oil pans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky26 Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share Posted January 7, 2013 How badly would it be to drill holes in the support to access those screws? Like say just a little bigger than the diameter of the driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 look closer. Unless your brat happens to not have them, the engine cross member should have access holes. For example: See those 5 small holes? Thats them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 1/4" drive wobble socket and long extension with the engine mounts undone and the engine about 1.5" out of the mounts. Did 3 in a day on various Subaru's but that was with a lift. Another shop used inferior silicone and outsourced warranty repairs to my shop. Ultra Grey from Permatex or Red Fuji Bond from Subaru-seems to be a permanent fix. I ditch the cork gaskets on the ea81s for these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky26 Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 1/4" drive wobble socket and long extension with the engine mounts undone and the engine about 1.5" out of the mounts. Did 3 in a day on various Subaru's but that was with a lift. Another shop used inferior silicone and outsourced warranty repairs to my shop. Ultra Grey from Permatex or Red Fuji Bond from Subaru-seems to be a permanent fix. I ditch the cork gaskets on the ea81s for these. Good to know that will be what I do if this doesn't hold, got it back on last night, I just need to go back & torque the bolts down to the setting. I hope I didn't screw myself by not torquing them down last night. I used the Permatex Copper spray gasket stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 by far the best Ive used is Toyota Black RTV. It does cost $25 per tube though. Not even a hint of a weep after 2k miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brat78 Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 That is a PITA job with the engine in but it is possible. Hilariously I put my junkyard shelf motor in and then realized I had a really leaky pan. A week earlier the motor was sitting in the bed of the brat. How easy it would have been then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky26 Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 by far the best Ive used is Toyota Black RTV. It does cost $25 per tube though. Not even a hint of a weep after 2k miles Holy COW that is a clean underside of a Subaru:eek:!!!! That looks like it came off of the showroom FLOOR, of course almost anything would be better than what I have been looking at the past 2 nights!:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 It shoud be clean, that's the result of a zero mile rebuild I expect it to stay relatively clean, but it is still a Subaru Still, with 2k miles on it now, not even a hint of a leak, anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky26 Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 It shoud be clean, that's the result of a zero mile rebuild I expect it to stay relatively clean, but it is still a Subaru Still, with 2k miles on it now, not even a hint of a leak, anywhere. Reguardless, after 2000K that is wonderfull, IT is like a or smokin HOTbabe on the beach:grin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
presslab Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 by far the best Ive used is Toyota Black RTV. It does cost $25 per tube though. I have used RTV on pans before and it seals great... But it bends the poo out of the pan trying to remove it, even with trying to cut all the spots I could get to. Recently I pulled off a pan sealed with 518 and it came off a lot easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 You are doing it all wrong if you are concerned about REMOVING the oil pan when installing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Reguardless, after 2000K that is wonderfull, IT is like a or smokin HOTbabe on the beach:grin: Thanks. If youd like to see more check out my thread in members rides Lots of fun pics of a super clean '84 GL http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=135361 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendecker Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 How bad would it be to drill holes in the support to access those screws? Like say just a little bigger than the diameter of the driver. I don't know how bad it would be, but I did it a few years back and have had no problems. I used a dremel tool. It took longer than I originally thought, but worked. Even with the bigger holes, it was still a beast to get a couple of the bolts back in. No leaks yet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky26 Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 I don't know how bad it would be, but I did it a few years back and have had no problems. I used a dremel tool. It took longer than I originally thought, but worked. Even with the bigger holes, it was still a beast to get a couple of the bolts back in. No leaks yet! I figured out where the holes were that lined up with the pan bolts..duh:clap: I think one of the PO made said holes just big enough to get a 10mm socket through:headbang:, such a wonderful thing YAHOO!!! All the bolts actually were in pretty decent line too:clap: Got here all back together though and GTG for now, still need to do the valve covers though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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