TROGDOR! Posted April 11, 2004 Share Posted April 11, 2004 Trying to pull a rear axle among other things today. The outer end of the axle is loose and hanging, and the inner end is still attached to the diff. The pin is out, and I've pounded and pried on it for hours, and it hasn't moved a MILLIMETER. Can someone tell me, HOW DO I GET THIS THING OFF!!?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 11, 2004 Share Posted April 11, 2004 Rust welded on. IF you do get it off, use some anti-seize on the splines when you put it back. Heat with an acetelene torch, and then dunk it cold water - that might break it loose. Dissasemble the joint, and knock the plug out of the bottom of the cup, then you can get to the stub bolt on the diff, and remove the whole stub.... You need the special stub bolt tool tho.... Last resort - cut it off with a die grinder. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondasucks Posted April 11, 2004 Share Posted April 11, 2004 1/4 inch drive 6 point deep well 8mm Craftsman sockets work for gettting the bolts out, provided they are not stripped off (DO NOT try a 12 point socket, must be a 6 point and you gotta lightly smack it with a mallet to get it on all the way) but it will work, I have done it. The special tool is an inverted torx, but you need one that will fit inside teh hole in the shaft, which most that I have seen do not.. Dunno where the tool could be aquired aside from a Subaru dealer. Maybe some deep creep, or other penetrating oil would help??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 11, 2004 Share Posted April 11, 2004 The snap-on tool works - do a search on the board, it's on here somewhere. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted April 11, 2004 Share Posted April 11, 2004 use the torch to get it real hot then pound on it as soon as you get the torch off. The heat will cause the outer part to expand more than the inner breaking the rust bond. I had to do this on my outers, and my surrounding seals survived the heat. You just gotta be careful about where you put the heat. I pointed the heat directly where the stub goes in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tailgatewagon Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 had a friend with this problem. we tried torch and then beas wax. = nothing soaking in penitrating oil over night = nothing took it to a machine shop and had them use a big press on it. = broken $200 pickle fork on press and not a bit of movement. hope it works out for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 my splines were really rusted to sh** and my method worked first try. The trick is to not bothering with wax or anything, just get on it with a hammer right away. before it has time to cool or for the heat to equalize between the two parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 yep, heat it up then put soem candle wax on it, the wax will penitrate it and act as a lube to make it come out, ive done this many times with the oxy-acidaline on engine bolts on chevy engines and many other things. good luck, Shean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toybuilder Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 Look at this old thread for some ideas. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6850 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROGDOR! Posted April 12, 2004 Author Share Posted April 12, 2004 Since the shaft and inner joint are good, I just decided to get an outer joint and cup from work and put it on there. Since I'm working on a VERY tight time frame this seemed to be the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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