wakingtowinter Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Hey everybody, I'm in the process of doing the timing belts and all the front seals on my 89 GL. I got the oil pump off and replaced the shaft seal. I put the shaft back in and got the sprocket on, but there's about 1/4" up and down play in the shaft. I'm pretty sure I beat the sprocket on as far down as it would go, but is that much shaft play normal? I put a new mickey mouse gasket on and got the pump back onto the block, but when I turn the sprocket, there is a fair amount of resistance from the shaft. Is this normal? It's not like turning the cam pulley or anything like that, but it just doesn't feel very smooth. I would guess it takes 3-5 ft/lbs to turn the sprocket. When I took it off, I cleaned everything off, but I didn't put any oil on the shaft or the end of the shaft or anything. Should it all go back together dry like that or does it need to be lubed a bit? I just can't remember how it felt turning it before I took it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Put a film pf oil on the rotating parts. start all your bolts first, and snug them down in a radial pattern. make sure the pulley will rotate as you go. turn the pylley several times to make sure it turns smoothly before torquing down all the bolts, once they are all threaded in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wakingtowinter Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 awesome, thanks for the fast reply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wakingtowinter Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 I have another question about this job, figured I'd post in here again. I see a lot of people saying that they leave the t-belt covers off with no problems, and I was wondering if this is still going to be OK for a wagon that's going to see a lot of snowy and icy conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 90% of the time, no covers is fine. In deep snow it could cause the belt to skip a few teeth. With the covers of, it's pretty easy to just set it back to right so it's not a huge deal. If you are doing a minimal job, or there is any doubt that you may need to get back in there....leave the covers off, so you can keep an eye on them. But if you are doing a complete T-belt job, with all seals, and a new water pump......then put the covers back on. You won't need to go back in there again for several years. Also, play in the pump rotor, before installed is normal. Do make sure though that you placed the pulley on correctly(not upside down), and with the notch lined up properly with the flat spot on the shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickNakorn Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I'm not sure why play in the pump rotor shaft is considered ok for Subarus but not for any other oil pump; I would say that the pump shaft should be very snug in its bearing and should turn very easily with almost no resistance when lubricated. Pump rotors and housings are not expensive and last time I looked (2 years ago) they were still listed by Subaru. If the pump is not in good condition you'll have low oil pressure, oil aeration and consequent problems with lifters and journals. Its a personal choice of course, but I would never re-use a knackered oil pump rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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