Abski Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Hey guys, my apologies in advance if I'm in the wrong place. I've come across a spot of trouble while replacing the brake pads and rotors on a 1991 L series wagon (EA82). I looked around the site, but couldn't find an answer yet. So far, everything has gone smoothly, but unfortunately this is my first car with the handbrake on the front wheels. I've been trying to screw the pistons back in so I can replace the pads, got the little cube tool, etc. but after winding and winding, I don't think its moved at all. Is there something simple that needs to be done that I may have missed? Or any tips and tricks? I feel like I've tried everything, and am getting very frustrated. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickNakorn Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 I had the same problem on my L-series after it had been laid up for a while. After cleaning the whole assembly I sprayed it with plenty of penetrating oil and then used a caliper piston winding tool. Once it began to free-off, I noticed that it needed a hell of a lot of winding - I just assume it is on a fine thread. I've never had one of those calipers in pieces so I have no idea what they're like inside. But, eventually it wound back far enough to fit the new pads - needless to say, I removed all traces of oil with spray brake cleaner. I also took the opportunity to de-glaze the disks with some wet and dry paper. I ended up fitting new discs in the end because of excessive run-out. Amazingly, brand bew disks from Subaru were actually cheap! Less expensive than having them skimmed... not many parts from Subaru are a bargain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 I've found that opening the bleeder fitting slightly will relieve the internal pressure a bit and makes it easier to screw the piston back in. Use a tin can to catch the brake fluid that spits out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 It helps to apply pressure while screwing in. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abski Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the help guys, ended up getting it sorted today. Also, I don't suppose anyone knows the bleed order for it? Its got the hill holder, and I've been informed that the order goes diagonally or something? Edited February 11, 2013 by Abski Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Do it diagonally starting with the wheel farthest from the MC, which would be the right rear. Then LF, LR, then RF I find it helps to depress the clutch pedal when pumping the brakes for the rear wheels. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abski Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Thanks mate, you're a champion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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