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Oh Man, i think im gonna keep it (84 BRAT)


Subruise
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WooDoo Sam...get yer own dagum thread.  :angry: You go on and buy yours, Im gonna build mine.... heres what I did to MY BRAT tonighthttps://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=153902334765140&set=pcb.153902888098418&type=1&theater Roodog loves the BRAT

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=153902414765132&set=pcb.153902888098418&type=1&theater

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    this is good news, it was a smidge low on oil and i was pretty sure that was the sound of lifters ticking lol. not loud but reminiscent of my ea82s.

    if there are any good threads/sites for people not as fluent with the ea81 platform/BRATs and their various fluctuations in design please feel free to post them here. from what i can tell its all original. 

 

RV

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'84 was the change-over year for lifter type. Auto trans had hydro, manual had solid. '85 went to all hydro.

 

If the valve covers have a sticker on them saying "Do not adjust", then you have hydro lifters.

There is a procedure to adjust those in the FSM however. You would need to do so if you have the heads surfaced.

 

Another way to tell is to look at the ends of the pushrods.

Solid lifter ones have a metal tip on both ends, easy to tell it's there as it's larger than the shaft of the pushrod itself.

 

Hydro lifter ones are of a one-piece design. Plus there is a tabbed washer under the jam-nut for the adjuster screw to lock it in place.

Edited by TomRhere
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so I take it this would be a solid lifter unit?http://s1278.beta.photobucket.com/user/Subruise/media/130215_0021_zps88f6a910.jpg.html

 

I didnt do much with the BRAT tonight, as I was distracted by my buddies freshly acquired 85/6? glwagon that he hijacked my thread with earlier.(08/85 with orange didgeridoo dash)

 

I removed  the valve cover again and snapped a pic. I put water in it and moved it out of the garage to make room, and then back again after we bled his brakes. 

Edited by Subruise
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After several snapped bolt I got the front bumper/underbar and front fenders off today. Especially fun was the part where one of the bumper bolts wasnt a captive nut, but instead a nut and washers. 

 

Examination reveals slight damage in the center of rad support. I went to town on the crumple zones for the fenders with a come along and a deadblow. I think its better? pics are a possibility in the future. 

 

also found intact foglight wiring and relay still hooked up. button is there too, same as my 86 gl wagon hmmm

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  • 2 weeks later...

parts are stacking up for this little guy faster than work is getting done. I have been occupied with other peoples cars for the last couple weeks. this has been beneficial, however. 

 

heres the "plan"

 

SPFI pistons in the EA81 (need to get new rings probably)

SPFI swap, for mpgs and more bettah

EA82 trailing arms/rear drums (maybe discs someday)

loyale single range pushbutton 5spd thats coming out of my wagon soon.

EA82 LCAs/radius rods/xmember/brakes. (anybody have links for this stuff??)

 

I plan on this being my DD with bennies so the wagon wont screw me when I break things, which is going to start happening more with the work going into that. the single range has gotten the wagon through lots of rough stuff so I figure itll do just fine in the BRAT.

 

I have all the parts I need except of course rocker panels under the doors, and a new front clip.............anybody got a 2 door gen2 I can cut up?....or a front clip from any gen 2??

Edited by Subruise
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not sure how acquainted you are with the ea81 cars but all the front clips are the same. And if you're wanting to do the the ea82 lcas I'd try to find a complete engine crossmember and all to swap under it. then you can take advantage of the wider stance and use ea82 axles. I had a short pm convo with gloyale about doing it I'll find hat and paste it over.

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Two ways to do it.

 

If you are planning on even a small lift, you can use the lift block as a "adapter" block. Basically you use a wider block than traditional lifts. For example, a 4 inch lift would usually use a 2x4 block between crossmember and body....but for the adapter, you would use a 3x4 inch block. this gives you the width you need. The top holes are spaced to mount to the EA81 body, and are near what will be the inner edge of the block. The bottom holes, spaced to match the EA82 crossmember, will be nearer the opposite, outside edge of the block. They total offset of each block is about 5/8th inch (EA82 member is ~ 1-1/4" wider overall) You will use the original bolts to hold the block to the body, and some short bolts to hold the crossmember to the block.

 

HighGuys, my lift company can make you these blocks, individually, or with a complete kit. 2" to 6"

 

If you don't want any lift, you can modify the area to the inside of the mounting holes of the crossmember. Rigth where the EA81 holes would need to be, the EA82 crossmember begins to bend over, and down into the craddle. What needs to be done, is to make cuts that will allow you to bend up "tabs" for the EA81 body mounting. after folding up the tabs, a brace piece should be welded under the tabs to reinforce.

 

I've done both, and they both work. But I recommend the adapter block method......especially if you live in an area with intense vehichle inspections. The "tab" method is totally safe, but at first glance to an unfamiliar eye, could seem like something weird.

 

Use the EA82 crossmember, Control arms, and Radius rods(they mount right to the EA81 mounts) Knuckles, hubs, and Axles.

 

Whatever method you use, you will need a steering coupler as well. No lift, or small lift you can get one from another model (EA82, Legacy, Outback) Big lift you will need to make or have made.

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