TomRhere Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 If the "POP" was a backfire thru the intake, it could have dislodged a vac hose, thus the crappy idle/accel. Check the vac lines over. Just saying.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 Alright I'll give er a look over again today. See if I can find anything . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 Yeah all of the vacuum lines are connected. Timing belts are a little loose but nothing severe. They could have slipped a tooth like someone suggested. After I get a new battery for it ill redo the timing belts and see what that does Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 the throttle body hoseclamp is tight on the plenum right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 the throttle body hoseclamp is tight on the plenum right? Nag, nag, nag: Backfire can blow loose the PCV fittings into the intake, and that big emissions-test plug on same. End-of-nag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Don't know FI systems that well, learning them. Old carb guy here.... Question; Can a backfire thru the intake cause damage to any of the FI components like MAF, IAC, what have you? Pretty good knowledge here on what it could do with a carb system, no clue on FI though. Well, other than popping a vac line off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 (edited) Hot-wire MAF, so possibility that the MAF might be damaged, but mine looks like it could hold up to a lot... in fact, it did. This summer I had an intake backfire (cross-mixed plug wires...) that actually blew the maf away from the vehicle (I was messing with ether, and had the airbox loose. The MAF survived and is still working. Maybe the IAC has stuff that would not like an overpressure... Haven't opened one up to see. Pretty much everything else would have hoses for "fuses". Edited February 18, 2013 by NorthWet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 maybe it blew out an intake gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share Posted February 19, 2013 Well I watched your videos today Miles, redid the timing belts, made sure they were tight and then did the ignition timing. Everything was good, still same results. I can barely get the thing to rev up before it bogs out or back fires. I had poor idle on cold start so I swapped out a CTS, still no improvement. Last but not least I just threw on a maxima alternator because the voltage was low so I figured maybe it'd smooth out the idle. Nope still doing the same thing. I noticed an exhaust leak here and some water dripping from the welds: Don't mind the welds LOL this muffler has been re used a couple times. I could have a hollow/clogged cat or a bad muffler ? I just let the car warm up for about 15 minutes then shut it off. Started this post, and tried starting the car again, wouldn't start unless I had my gas pedal to the floor and when it did start it started backfired/popped then died What the he!! Gives !? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 That loud pop you heard (beings it was not mechanical) sounds like one of your fuseable links. Check it out, first. Ohm the wires. The black box by your driver side fender well. Although, "sounds like" is a long way from Tillamook. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share Posted February 19, 2013 I don't have any way to test out the fusible links, can you tell if they're bad just by looking at em ? Also car will absolutely not start right now, it keeps cranking. Starts for like a tiny second then goes back to cranking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 I use a multimeter. I can check resistance (ohms), DC volts and AC volts. They are very reasonable in price. Harbor Freight sells them for maybe $9. Most auto shops also sell them. You MUST own one if you work on cars... otherwise, you're just guessing. Wish I was closer... I could help you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 Do you have the numbers for the ohms they should be at when I test them ? I don't have a manual anymore I somehow lost it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 There should be no resistance on the fuseable link wires... so the ohms would be 0 (zero). Set your meter to ohms... Then touch one lead to one end of the fuseable link wire... then touch the other lead to the other end of the fuseable link wire. If the fuseable link wire is good... there should be no resistance... ie... the wire has continuity. Same reading you would get if you touch the two leads of the multimeter together. This is a good way to check ALL your fuses also. A good fuse reads 0 ohms. You don't even have to take the fuse out of the fusebox. If you look closely, you will see 2 bare metal spots on the end of the fuse where you will put your multimeter leads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylar Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 Awesome. Thanks . I think I'm gonna head to HF and pick one up today . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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