96 legacy billows shot

[soobie_newbie67]

both billows are shot. how hard are they to replace? rack and pinion billows btw.

[89xt]

I don't think its that hard, as long as the jam nut loosens, and the outer tie rod ends "unscrew". Undo the outer tie rod ends and take them off. Count the number of turns (every time the end goes around to 12:00 o'clock I consider 1 turn) so when reinstalling the tie rod end turn it on the same number you counted taking it off, so you won't have affected the alignment too much. Also, the position of the jam nut, and the overall look (same rust look-nothing shiny showing where the jam nut meets the tie rod) should give you a good indication if your close.

     Once the ends are off, remove the squeeze clamp that holds the outer portion of the bellows to the shaft. There's a metal fastener (kind of like a metal rubber band) that holds the inner portion of the bellows in place. Its kind of covered by the bellows, the way it "rolls" over it, but once you see what I'm describing, just pry the rubber, with the band, out of the groove it sits in on the rack housing, and peel it down the shaft.

     i know you asked for just the bellow replacement, however, if you see signs of fluid from the rack on the inside of the bellows, you may have a rack problem. Also, with the inner tie rods exposed, check for play-there should be NONE. Grab the shaft and move it in and out, NO PLAY is acceptable. The inner tie rods are replaceable and you are most of the way there at this point. Don't be foolish.

     Now just reverse the procedure. Don't you hate that? You have to work the new bellows into position. Use some WD or PB blaster to help it slide down the shaft. I have had some problems reusing the metal rubber band, but if it breaks or becomes disfigured, a nylon tie wrap will secure the bellows to the rack housing effectively. Once the inner end is secure, be sure its not twisted, then secure the outer end of the bellows with the squeeze clamp.

     Put the tie rods back on, secure them to the knuckle, don't forget your cotter pins and you should be good to go. I hope this is helpful.

[idosubaru]

i just did two like last week, have 3 more to do.  very easy.  i don't even remove the outert tie rods because of the rust belt - we don't have the luxury of pins and nuts and joints coming out like the rest of the country. 

 

break the jam nut loose

turn the inner tie rod

remove jam nut

install boot

 

it's only one nut once the wheel is off so it can be done in 30 minutes....but the first one might take you awhile if you have problems removing stuck parts.

 

the drivers side is the hardest to get up and over the rack.  that's the second time sucker - getting the boot over the rack.

 

slide one side (like the top-ish side) up and over the lip of the rack as much as you can and hold it there with one hand - then grab the lip of the other side of the boot with a pair of pliers and stretch it up and over the other side.  that's the quick method.  i haven't found any other way to get them on quickly and consistently other than that.

 

i almost always reuse the stock OEM rack hardware - the clamps are usually in good shape and i like them better than zipties which a lot of boots come with.

 

www.rockauto.com has great prices.  always 5% off coupons somewhere.

advance auto you can always get 20% off online discount codes and free shipping sometimes or local pick up.