ShawnW Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 Has anybody done it? I see you can send them out to a company for $225 for a repair but I would rather put money in someone here's pocket or maybe have a tutorial/description of what to do. Running out of spare units. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 I've never seen anything online about it, I do have one here in unknown condition from a car I parted many years ago if you have need of another core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 Cool, how much? Willing to try it of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 (edited) I seem to remember someone using window defrost repair paint to repaint the contact areas. Take it with a grain of salt though. Edited March 8, 2013 by AKghandi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 pm me an offer Shawn, I've got no use for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 If I remember, I will look at an EA82 flap-style and see what the innards look like. (I assume that they are probably close in construction.) If you have opened up one of yours, a posted picture of the resistance-surface/wiper might be useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 I have a photo here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 (edited) Let's see if I can add a picture... Edit: Well, apparently I have no clue how to do this on the new software. Too bad, 'cuz I had a pretty decent pic of an 85 EA82T flap meter. The EA85's on first blush looks rather complicated, with multiple resistance paths. I think if I stare at it long enough it will makes sense. Anyway, the common thing to do with this style of resistance-film/wiper arrangement seems to be to shift the contact tracks so the wiper's contacts are tracing over un-gouged film surface. A way to go about that on the EA82 version would be to put a slight chicane/s-curve in the wiper arm, drawing the contacts closer to the wiper pivot. Alternately, you could elongate the resistance board's mounting holes to allow some fore/aft adjustment. While helping a friend resolve a Volvo TPS issue, I looked into repairing the film, and it is a bit of a pain. The common practice seems to be to add a particular type of graphite into a binder (can't remember offhand what they used, but it was common), and experiment with different ratios of graphite-to-binder until you got the proper resistance per unit-length. Edited March 8, 2013 by NorthWet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 send me the pic and I'll post it up, iownasubaru at yahoo dot com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Has anybody done it? I see you can send them out to a company for $225 for a repair but I would rather put money in someone here's pocket or maybe have a tutorial/description of what to do. Running out of spare units. These should be helpful. Think I may have posted them previously. Haven`t tried it myself. http://the944.com/afm.htm http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/elect-22.htm http://www.gomog.com/articles/EFIflap.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nncoolg Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 I bought one from an importer once that was faulty and he replaced the board in it with the cabon tracks on it, I dont know where he got the board though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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