Bought a not-so-perfect 1997 Outback

[soobie_newbie67]

Picked her up for 1000 bucks.  good deal?  you tell me.  No pics till tomorrow cause its too dark but....

 

Front bumper needs to be replaced.  drivers side fog is missing with obvious minor impact damage.

 

front fenders were chewed by a werewolf or something.  they are dented and have friggen canine teeth marks.  plus, the dashboard has been nommed on as well.

 

CV axles are obviously bad.  I think the duty C solenoid is bad, cause taking sharp turns it bucks hard.  Plus, they had the fuse in the FWD holder cause they new something was wrong.  They told me they just didnt know what.

 

Thermostat needs to be replaced.  Climate control needs to be replaced.  Had leather seats, and they changed the drivers one out with a cloth seat when it got bad.

 

With all the cosmetic issues, she is definitely gonna need to be painted afterwards.

 

also needs brakes.  one of them grinds.

 

Good news!
 

It has the problem child EJ25D engine, but the timing belt, tensioners, water pump, and headgaskets were all replaced at the same time 10k miles ago.  Engine idles smooth as glass with no misses.  but maybe bad motormount??? the engine trashed around a little while it was cold when you put it under a heavy load.

 

Carpets are clean.  the whole interior is generally clean, just need that one matching drivers leather seat. 

 

Tires are good and they all match.

 

What can you guys tell me about some of the certain things that are wrong?

Edited March 12, 2013 by soobie_newbie67

[uniberp]

Start with short trips not far from your garage.

 

The whole headgasket thing always bugs me. Often replaced after an overheat condition, an attempt to bandaid damaged warped heads block also.

 

Almost worth it to salvage the new parts and put in a rebuild. Some people here say run it until it blows, but then you lose your core value. It seems to me the independent aftermarket rebuilders are getting better all the time, and although explaining to your friends that you put a vitrually new engine in the ugliest car possible may be a little awkward, it is rewarding in an odd way.

 

But then you're the owner of a $3000 car. Kinda rich for some of this crowd.

 

As long as the strut towers are not rusted out, the seat has enough cushion, and it shifts into 4th, I am happy with it. It's not like you ever get out of a muddy hole with the wheels cocked sideways anyhow.

 

Brakes schmakes. They always sound like gravel to me anyhow.

Edited March 12, 2013 by uniberp

[mikec03]

The fact that the car bucks when you turn indicates torque bind.  That means the plates in the transfer case are binding.  Maybe if you change the transmission oil three times, it will go away.  Maybe not.  Search for the forums for torque bind to see other solutions [PS nothing worked for me].

 

If the FWD light isn't on when the fuse in installed, then it's 99% that the duty C solenoid is bad.  Cost for replacemen at an Indy shop is $400, at least. If you replace the duty C solenoid, maybe it will fix the torque bind.  Maybe not.  If you don't do anything about the torque bind, then you may shear the "hub" which connects from the transmission to the transfer case.  Then you will be in front wheel drive permanently.  Not the worse thing in the world.

Edited March 12, 2013 by mikec03

[Rooster2]

The fact that the car bucks when you turn indicates torque bind.  That means the plates in the transfer case are binding.  Maybe if you change the transmission oil three times, it will go away.  Maybe not.  Search for the forums for torque bind to see other solutions [PS nothing worked for me].

 

If the FWD light isn't on when the fuse in installed, then it's 99% that the duty C solenoid is bad.  Cost for replacemen at an Indy shop is $400, at least. If you replace the duty C solenoid, maybe it will fix the torque bind.  Maybe not.  If you don't do anything about the torque bind, then you may shear the "hub" which connects from the transmission to the transfer case.  Then you will be in front wheel drive permanently.  Not the worse thing in the world.

I live in Indy. What shop in the Indy area charges $400 for duty C replacement? Just good to learn for future consideration.

[johnceggleston]

if you are going to drive it while you work on it i would remove the rear section of the drive shaft. this will eliminate the binding and unwanted wear on the trans, transfer clutch etc.

 

i would probably try and buy a good used rear extension housing, add a new duty c, ~$100, and swap that in. you don't really know how worn the transfer clutch discs are now.  all you really know now is that they are grabbing. (no grab, no bind.) you could get new new clutch discs, but that will add ~$250 - $300.

 

i don't understand the ned to swap out the t-stat unless it is overheating. and if there are bubbles in the overflow when overheated then it is the head gaskets not the t-stat.

 

remove the other fog so you can get it inspected. none is better than one in my state.

 

with all it needs, you need to buy a wreck or a parts car. do you have somewhere to park one?

 

where is kennenwick?

Edited March 12, 2013 by johnceggleston