Scout Build

[Jibs]

Have been gathering parts for the last few years and it's finally starting to come together. Am starting with this:

 

 

Its a 1978 International Scout 2.

IH 196 4 cyl. (Soon to be replaced with the IH 345 V8)

Dana 44 Axles

Chrysler 727 Auto Trans

Dana 20 Tcase 2.03:1 Low

 

Best of all it's a Right Hand Drive mail truck.

 

 

Which is going to make it fun with getting the power steering in, as there's little room on that side for the steering box. Normally it goes on the outside of the frame on the normal left hand side, but is going to have to be on the inside of the frame on the RIGHT side. I'll have to either push the axle forward and the box forward, or move the engine and trans back a couple of inches. I'll probably move the axle, as I could use the room for the tires as well.

 

Next I bought a 14 bolt GM 1 ton axle for the rear:

 

 

Its got a 10.5 inch ring gear, which is massive, the track width is 67" which is about 9 inches wider than the stock dana 44's. Its got big 1.5 inch 30 spline axleshafts and is a tank of an axle. They are super common, and are very cheap.

 

The downside is the massive brake drums on either end.

 

 

They weight roughly 74 pounds EACH. The entire axle weighs 550lbs and close to 400 without the drums, I have a set of rear disc brake brackets/rotors and calipers from a 3/4 ton chevy that replaces them.

 

I bought a Diff cover from Great Lakes Offroad made of 3/8" steel to replace the stamped crappy stock cover.

 

 

Its got an oil filler bung, as well as an oil drain plug which is recessed into the bottom:

 

 

Everything will get cleanded and powdercoated before being installed onto the rig.

[Jibs]

I think the stock Ujoint yoke is a 1350

 

 

I bought a pinion guard also from GLO, which protects the Ujoint at the axle when coming don off rocks.

 

 

I bought a 1480 Ujoint Yoke.

 

 

 

The above pic shows from left to right, a 1310, 1330, 1350, 1410, and a 1480 at far right.

 

Here's a picture of the ring gear and carrier of the 14 bolt.

 

 

I bought a Grizzly locker that works like a detroit locker in that when gas is applied the locker engauges and locks the rear. When no gas is applied, it works like a limited slip.

 

 

I will be updating with more pics of the front, as well as with build pics when I get that far. I need to rebuild the dana 20 tcase, and at that point I will be able to get the 14 bolt into the rear.

[ferox]

Cool, are you going to twin stick the Dana 20?

[Jibs]

Cool, are you going to twin stick the Dana 20?

 

Yeah, I won't put the 3.15 gears in it, as I am planning on running a klune v or a NWF Black box ahead of it, and that'll give me plenty of gearing, but yes, the dana 20 will be twinsticked and get a rebuild kit, as well as upgraded front and rear outputs with the 1410 Ujoint yokes.

[monstaru]

WOOT!

What up JB?

good ta see ya around

[Jibs]

WOOT!

What up JB?

good ta see ya around

 

Yeppers. I still kinda lurk sometimes. Been busy working and buying parts for the scout, I wanted to be wheeling this thing yesterday if you know what I mean. As soon as I get this done, I want to tow my EJ brat up there to the northwest and have it built.

[monstaru]

I wanna build your bumpers and rollbars!.  Super cheap  ..

cheers

[Tsuru]

^{Dump the D20 and find a 1980 IH Scout II and pull the Dana 300, its all gears (no chains) and tough enough to run whatever you bolt on to it.}

^{I know where a complete (but very tired) 1980 SII Diesel is in Mobile, Alabama. you could probably get the entire thing for a couple of hundred.}

 

^{Good luck on the build up!}

 

^quietly,

^timothy

[Jibs]

^{Dump the D20 and find a 1980 IH Scout II and pull the Dana 300, its all gears (no chains) and tough enough to run whatever you bolt on to it.}

^{I know where a complete (but very tired) 1980 SII Diesel is in Mobile, Alabama. you could probably get the entire thing for a couple of hundred.}

 

^{Good luck on the build up!}

 

^quietly,

^timothy

 

Yeah except a stock scout dana 300 will cost me more than what I paid for the rig. And then I'd STILL have to dump the same amount of money into it that I plan on spending on my dana 20. The d20 will do fine behind a klune v or a nwf black box. 

 

Now if you wanted to make some cash, I'd pay you for that scout, and then I'll take the d300 and you can scrap the rest of it for money and we can both come out ahead.

 

EDIT: Yep, the last d300 I saw for sale just sold on pirate for 700$

Edited April 25, 2013 by Jibs

[Tsuru]

Yeah except a stock scout dana 300 will cost me more than what I paid for the rig. And then I'd STILL have to dump the same amount of money into it that I plan on spending on my dana 20. The d20 will do fine behind a klune v or a nwf black box. 

 

Now if you wanted to make some cash, I'd pay you for that scout, and then I'll take the d300 and you can scrap the rest of it for money and we can both come out ahead.

 

EDIT: Yep, the last d300 I saw for sale just sold on pirate for 700$

I would love to see it live on, even if only in parts in another vehicle, It is in storage at my friends house in Mobile, Alabama.

It has a frozen 304, the stock D18 narrow, coupled to the holy grail of transfer cases, the venerable Dana 300.

(and of course the dana 44 tracloc axles. (yup, traclock from the factory)'

If you are interested, I'll make you a good deal on her. She served me well until I left Florida several years ago. 

I've been missing her, but also know that I cannot do anything with her from here, and she's just going to waste there in Alabama.

Also, if you are using the 345 (applies to the other International V-8s as well) you know to shave the heads to compensate for the thicker head gaskets yes? (the original head gaskets were just a thin sheet of copper, all replacement gaskets are the sandwich construction type) shaved heads, or decked block will compensate, otherwise, the valley will never seal and you will leak oil forever, that and you will end up with really low compression, which means no power whatsoever. you could probably burn kerosene at that point, but that really isn't the point now is it?

 

She also has the semi-auto warn hubs (one position is AUTO, then turn to manually LOCK, fantastic things if you go easy on them in AUTO position)

 

email me, if you are interested.

 

Respectfully,

Timothy