lassensurf Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 (edited) I've dug through a buncha old threads and searched around, can't quite find what I'm looking for, hopefully you all can help me out. Got a 96 Subaru Legacy L, Auto. 195k. Replaced the Timing Belt, Water Pump and Thermostat not long ago after an overheat. (Replaced spark plugs and wires about 8 months ago after a misfire). Ran awesome again for a week, then engine starts running rough. Almost like it has the hiccups. RPMs don't change. It does it at all speeds, but worse at idle. Irregular. Sometimes three little "vrums" in a row, sometimes several seconds between them, sometimes one or two at a time. Irregular but everpresent. Sometimes like it's not getting enough gas, then suddenly too much real fast. Again, RPM needle doesn't move, at all, just can feel it and hear it in the way it runs. Like it lurches real quick but not real hard. Fuel filter? Fuel pump? IACV? Something else? I read threads on all these, and none seems to match the same symptoms. I'm really short on time and cash, so I can't afford to tinker a bunch with it. CEL only throws Catalytic converter code like has on and off since I bought it 2 years ago. Any thoughts? Ideas? Solid premonitions? Edited March 22, 2013 by lassensurf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TYLER R Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Have you checked hoses going into your intake tube? I would think that, vac leak, or something fuel related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 any CEL codes stored? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lassensurf Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 Just had it checked again. Cylinder 2 misfire. Hmmm. Last time I had a misfire the CEL flashed at me. Any recommendations on brand (since the ones I put in 8 months ago were Autozone)? Also noticed I'm newly leaking coolant out near the water pump thermostat. Didn't do that for two weeks after I replaced both. Also getting white smoke leaking from exhaust, near Y-connector. Never saw that before. Grrrrrr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 Ngk spark plugs and either Ngk wires or napa lifetime wires (I have run napa liftimes in three differant subies and never had any problems), I would definatly start by putting the right wires and plugs in and see what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 (edited) Daggum Double post. Edited March 23, 2013 by Fairtax4me 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 23, 2013 Share Posted March 23, 2013 (edited) The 2.2s aren't too picky about plug wires. I've run Car-Quest house brand, Standard Ignition, Napa, even a set of no name cheapies I snagged from a junkyard car on both of my 2.2s at one point or another and never had an issue with wires. Did you gap the plugs before installing them? Should be .039-.043". Any standard copper plug should run just fine in that engine. If you got platinums or one of those those multi- electrode types they're a waste of money. Check to make sure its not the thermostat housing leaking first. If it is get a thermostat gasket froma dealer and install that. If its not the stat housing you'll have to pull the water pump again and put a dealer gasket on it. Most of the aftermarket kits come with paper gaskets that fail in no time. Dealer gasket is rubber coated stainless steel that works very well. Smoke from the y-pipe is an oil leak probably from the separator plate. All too common issue on these but should be fine to leave alone for a little while as long as you keep an eye on the oil level. Eventually you will have to pull the engine to reseal the plate. Check out Beergarage.com for good pics and writeup on the separator plate. Edited March 23, 2013 by Fairtax4me 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lassensurf Posted March 23, 2013 Author Share Posted March 23, 2013 (edited) sweet. thanks for the tips. Pulled out the spark plug and the contact cylinder thingy is loose, just flops around in there. Lame.They were NGK from autozone done in May/June. Broke the boot trying to get it off, the metal inside the boot was stuck real tight on the plug. Double lame. Also, there's this brown/black hard crusty buildup all over the spark plug where the boot goes. I used electric grease when I put them on, is it just that stuff getting crusty/rusty?Also, wiped down all wet spots, tightened a couple hoses and leaking seems to have stopped (did that before taking plugs out). Still getting smoke from along exhaust pipes, before and into Y-connector. Not lots, little wisps leaking off all length of the pipes, both sides. (It snowed last night and asphalt outside the garage is steamy in the sun, is it just condensation from the air?) Edited March 23, 2013 by lassensurf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lassensurf Posted March 24, 2013 Author Share Posted March 24, 2013 Spark plug #2 was in bad shape. The internal contact was loose and flopping around in it's space. The metal contact in the wire was arc-welded onto the plug and the old grease between the wire and plug was all black and hard. Replaced all four plugs and wires, threw in a new air filter (cuz it's been a while) and the whole thing runs like a dream (minus the shake from the new passenger half-axle I put in last summer, and still leaking a bit of coolant from the engine somewhere on the driver side where it's all wet).Thanks for the tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Leak could be from the radiator hose, and then running down to the thermostat area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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