99 Lego OBW EJ25 knocking-dead, swapping in 95 EJ22

[jiggseob]

Swap is going OK, wiringing matches so far, haven't started it yet, still a puzzle I'm not sure of:

 

Evap plumbing... on the 95 EJ22 Leg W donor car, the Evap canister was in the engine bay.   On the 99 EJ25 Leg OBW recipient car, the evap canister is somewhere aft by the rear bumper.  On both engines, there are three fuel tubes coming from the rear right by the brake master cylinder, fuel, return, and vent, and the three metal pipes on the engine all match up.  On the donor EJ22 engine, there are 2 metal pipes, a small one and a larger one, on the front right of the engine that used to go to the engine-bay mounted evap canister.  Any suggestions on how to plumb in the extra two little metal pipes on the EJ22?

 

Thanks,  Jiggs.

Edited March 26, 2013 by jiggseob

[johnceggleston]

if you have the donor car charcoal canister you can add it up front. i have done this.

 

or you can jut build a U shaped hose and connect the 2 front metal lines to each other. i have done this.

 

or maybe just plug them. not sure. not sure about this.

 

the pluming to the rear canister is in place and will work perfectly with the 3 exisrting hoses that connect to the intake near the fuel filter .

Edited March 26, 2013 by johnceggleston

[WoodsWagon]

you have to loop the two pipes together to direct the purge solenoid vacuum to the rear evap cannister.

[jiggseob]

I will start with plan-A, connecting the small and large metal pipes on the front-right together.  I did bring the engine-bay mounted can from the wrecking yard, and if  Plan A doesn't work I will find a spot in the engine bay for the canister and try that.  If the Evap system isn't working, what will the symptom be?

 

There are two electirc/vacuum solenoids on the front of the passenger-side strut tower, any idea what they do?  The EJ25 had one hose going over to the two solenoids valves, the EJ22 had two hoses going over there.  The wiring plugs are exactly the same.  I brought the setup from the EJ22 donor, and swapped it over, 2 hoses and all.

 

Thanks for the tip-ins.  Jiggs 

 

Edit...  The EJ22 donor car was an automatic, EJ22 has EGR, the EGR parts, pipe, fittings, vacuum actuated valve, are all identical.  So hopefully no EGR headaches...

Edited March 28, 2013 by jiggseob

[jiggseob]

Cranked it over tonight, with all three harness plugs unplugged, so that it would not start, I didn't want it to start, just crank over and check for oil pressure.  Yes, it did pressure up after about 15 seconds of cranking, the oil pressure light went out, stop cranking, oil light came on again in a second.

 

I still have to obtain the correct coolant and put that in before starting.  Both the donor car at the scrapyard, and the EJ25 in my shop had yellow coolant.  The auto parts store insists I buy the $25 per gallon - already diluted - pink stuff.  I want to buy the $16 a gallon yellow stuff, that you mix 50/50 with distilled water.

 

Advice please....  no owners manual with this car.

 

What does the manufacturer recommend for the 95 EJ22, and what do the wily veteran subie people recommend?  Should I buy some sort of coolant additive in addition to the antifreeze?

 

What temp of thermostat do the wily veterans recommend?

 

Thanks,  Jiggs.

[Rooster2]

I own a 98 with transplanted 95 2.2 motor. I had a shop install the motor, so not sure what they did.

 

Re antifreeze..........what type is not that important..........use either the pre-mix or concentrate that you dilute with distilled water. No coolant additive needed.

 

Re thermostat...........my opinion.........buy a good one, not a cheapie. Some say only Subaru OEM, but I have used after market thermostats with good result.

[lmdew]

You want to go with Plan B for the Evap Can.  I've done both and had gas smells from the rear with the front evap can installed.  Hooked the two pipes together and the smell went away.

[jiggseob]

Does this 99 Legacy Outback talk to OBD2 scanner and data display?  The cel was lit on this car when it last ran with the 2.5dohc installed.

 

Now that the 2.2sohc is in, I presume I will have to clear the existing code and then see what happens.

 

Does anyone know if my Maxitrip OBD2 scanner/reader will work on the 99 Scoooby?

 

This Maxitrip OBD2 scanner/reader plugs into my work car (an 05 Cevvy- sorry) and tells me what the map, tps, rpm, temp, iat, O2, etc sensor values are.  I'm hoping it gives me some of this on the Scoooby.

[ocei77]

......Does anyone know if my Maxitrip OBD2 scanner/reader will work on the 99 Scoooby?......

Yes it will.

 

O.

[jiggseob]

It runs.....   after plugging all the harnesses in, it cranked for about 15 seconds, then kicked a bit, then fired, then started and ran.  Wouldn't idle nicely so I took apart the iac, it was grungy inside.

 

Getting coolant in is a total PITA... poured it in the filler neck, about a quart went in.  No more would go in.  There is a phillips-head threaded plug in the passenger side of the rad, I took that out, piddled a gallon in there, put the plug back, put the rad-cap on, then started it.  Heat in the cabin, after about 10 minutes, heat in the rad.

 

The iac valve was a little sticky, took it apart, freed it up, lubed it a bit, put it back in, it works, now idles smoothly.  I didn't know what the iac did, but now I see the iac is just a computer controlled throttle, it lets air thats been through and metered by the MAF, and the iac lets the air in when I close the throttle.  Quite simple actually, when it works.

 

After about an hour total of idling, piddling with the sticky iac, driving around the block, up and down the alley, it runs nice.  All put together, running nice.

 

All in all, the '95 EJ22( from an automatic trans) swapped in with NO trouble.  A few things to remember to get from the donor car, like the power steering hoses.  I've swapped VWs and Chev small-blocks before, this was my first Subaru, all in all a great result.

 

Thanks for the moral support...

 

Jiggs

[jiggseob]

Check engine light is on, P0135 = 02 sensor heater circuit malfunction, bank1, sensor 1, heat circuit.

 

Are 02 sensors troublesome on these cars,  and what do they cause, other than the check engine light?

 

Thanks,  Jiggs.

[johnceggleston]

the rear sensor heater circuit problem could be a wiring issue.

imho, most circuit problems are connector / wiring issues, especially after major work.

 

check the connector at the unit and on the rear of the engine on the passenger side at the trans bell housing.

the larges one feeds the trans and all stuff to the rear.

[Gloyale]

You don't want the pink coolant. Green/yellow standard old school coolant is what you want.

[WoodsWagon]

Bank 1 sensor 1 is the o2 sensor before the catalytic converter. The plug is by the main engine connectors and the wire runs down in between the front axle and the engine crossmember. There is supposed to be a wire clamp that goes on the lower bellhousing stud before you put the nut on to hold that wire back from rubbing the CV.

 

If the sensor is plugged in, it's probably bad. Easy to check the heater circuit with an ohm meter. O2 sensors are a wear item, and the one before the cat is important because the computer uses it to adjust the fuel it feeds to the engine. Buy a NTK or NGK one, not a Bosch.

 

They can be stuck in the exhaust pretty good. They take a 7/8" wrench, use the box end and thread it over the connector or just cut the wires off at the sensor. Run the engine to get the exhaust hot, put the box end of the wrench on, and smack the side of the wrench with a hammer to get it moving. You can put the new one in with the open end of the wrench, but you will strip it if you try to take the old one off with it.

[johnceggleston]

 

Bank 1 sensor 1 is the o2 sensor before the catalytic converter.

good catch.

 

i don't know where i got rear from.

[ocei77]

..... Buy a NTK or NGK one, not a Bosch........

Think you may be misguided here. Bosch O2 sensors are fine. They come a lot as OEM units.

In addition Bosch is the originator of the O2 sensor, not a fly by night mfg.

 

O.

[Rooster2]

Bank 1 sensor 1 is the o2 sensor before the catalytic converter. The plug is by the main engine connectors and the wire runs down in between the front axle and the engine crossmember. There is supposed to be a wire clamp that goes on the lower bellhousing stud before you put the nut on to hold that wire back from rubbing the CV.

 

If the sensor is plugged in, it's probably bad. Easy to check the heater circuit with an ohm meter. O2 sensors are a wear item, and the one before the cat is important because the computer uses it to adjust the fuel it feeds to the engine. Buy a NTK or NGK one, not a Bosch.

 

They can be stuck in the exhaust pretty good. They take a 7/8" wrench, use the box end and thread it over the connector or just cut the wires off at the sensor. Run the engine to get the exhaust hot, put the box end of the wrench on, and smack the side of the wrench with a hammer to get it moving. You can put the new one in with the open end of the wrench, but you will strip it if you try to take the old one off with it.

Good to read how to replace the O2 sensor. My 98 w/ 95 motor needs the down stream unit replaced.  I am currently shopping the internet car store web sites for a good price. Anyone know of a good price. I would like to hear about it.

[ivans imports]

Had one of the fisrt one i converted come in for service yesterday has a 2.2 with twinn cam 2.5d heads i put it together 8 years ago has 170000km since no check engine and runs perfect still i found thiss worked better than just strait 2.2 covertion as had no check engine light and is same management. Have converted many to 2.2 but all have check engine light and a little weak. The 2.2 twinn cam has more power than 2.2 shoc by about 10-15% and is very comparabble to the 2.5d

[jiggseob]

Looks like the previous owner (or mechanic) did some messing with o2 sensor.  The sensor has two wires, a white and a black.  

 

Where the sensor plugs into the harness, there are three wires, white, black, and yellow.  I haven't had a chance yet to test that yellow wire on the vehicle harness for +12v right after startup.  My understanding of o2 sensor pre heat is that 12V is provided to the sensor for about 25 seconds after startup, and if the computer doesn't see any resistance for the pre-heater, it sets the code and goes into open-loop operation, going to default full-rich safe mode so as not over-lean and damage the engine.  Thus the poor mileage it was getting.

 

Question for the other guys with 99 legacy - does your o2 sensor have three wires or two?  How about your harness side?

 

Thanks,  Jiggs.

[johnceggleston]

95 - 99 all o2 sensors have 3 wires.

 

some have a 4 wire connector, but onlt 3 wires are attached.