does my '94 Loyale 3AT have solid or hydraulic lifter/rocker arms?

[GlenSz]

trying to eliminate my TOD (tick of death) or lifter tick and looking into maybe just making some adjustments along w/ using a heavier weight oil along with an oil treatment, but not sure i can make those changes if the rocker-arms are hydraulic. it would seem that based on the relative simplicity of the Loyale's engine, they'd be solid, but not sure. 

 

anyone got a firm answer for me?

 

thanks much,

 

Glen

[john in KY]

Hydraulic. Reseal the oil pump along with a new block to pump gasket solves the problem the vast majority of the time. 

 

Edit: Advice was for a Loyale but your picture shows a Legacy. Two different animals. Also no Legacy came with a 3-speed automatic so is the photo the car in question or are you asking about a Loyale?

Edited April 11, 2013 by john in KY

[mikaleda]

Hydraulic lash adjusters were used between 85-95 I believe, I might be off a year or so, but basically they changed everything in 96/97 OBDII, interferance motors, and solid adjusters.

 

Also I think that some autos had HLA before 85.

Edited April 10, 2013 by mikaleda

[Coyote Paws]

That's definitely a Loyale in the photo =P Even says so on the trim on the back door.

[tractor pole]

I bought a new oil pump and replaced it when I did the timing belts, after a spirited five minute drive the TOD was gone.

 

many say that just the oil pump seal will do the trick but I was not interested in doing the work twice if it did not work the first time.

 

TP

[86 Wonder Wedge]

To answer your question, your EA82 (SOHC) has Hydraulic Lash Adjusters meaning they themselves don't necessarily pump up (they do slightly to allow for impulse dampening) or push on the cam, but the wells they sit in do. And sometimes at higher milages, especially in the 3AT, the lower-RPM operation will cause a wear pattern that causes the HLAs to become stuck at some times during higher operation.. but that's a rare occurance.

 

A slightly thicker oil MIGHT help, but a more permanent fix would be to reseal/replace the oil pump. It could also be the oil pump relief spring or the oil galley O-ring on the cam tower(s) that has failed, but more than 75% of the TOD is caused by an internally bypassing oil pump or cavitation.

 

The "mickey mouse" seal is usually the culprit and can be had at Advance Auto Parts for approx 15 (kit, so you can replace the oil pump shaft seal and the pump body seal as well) or online at numerous places. Look for Oil pump seal kit.

[GlenSz]

Hydraulic. Reseal the oil pump along with a new block to pump gasket solves the problem the vast majority of the time. 

 

Edit: Advice was for a Loyale but your picture shows a Legacy. Two different animals. Also no Legacy came with a 3-speed automatic so is the photo the car in question or are you asking about a Loyale?

 yeah, definitely a Loyale, you can tell from the pic, as noted by Coyote Paws:

 

 

That's definitely a Loyale in the photo =P Even says so on the trim on the back door.

 

 

 

Hydraulic lash adjusters were used between 85-95 I believe, I might be off a year or so, but basically they changed everything in 96/97 OBDII, interferance motors, and solid adjusters.

 

Also I think that some autos had HLA before 85.

 

Thanks for that info, definitely helping me to understand the vocabulary better now. wasn't really sure what HLA's were initially when people were first talking about them, but now i get it, thanks again.

 

 

 

I bought a new oil pump and replaced it when I did the timing belts, after a spirited five minute drive the TOD was gone.

 

many say that just the oil pump seal will do the trick but I was not interested in doing the work twice if it did not work the first time.

 

TP

 

good advice here, gonna see what a new pump will cost VS. just the oil pump seal kit (oil pump shaft seal and the pump body seal). 

although i would like to not take the chance, i also don't want to replace the pump unnecessarily at an additional cost, but i can understand want to just do it while everything is taken out anyway....wish i woulda known all this when the timing belt went and i paid to have it replaced and the timing package reset, but i'm learning all this still. 

 

 

 

To answer your question, your EA82 (SOHC) has Hydraulic Lash Adjusters meaning they themselves don't necessarily pump up (they do slightly to allow for impulse dampening) or push on the cam, but the wells they sit in do. And sometimes at higher milages, especially in the 3AT, the lower-RPM operation will cause a wear pattern that causes the HLAs to become stuck at some times during higher operation.. but that's a rare occurance.

 

A slightly thicker oil MIGHT help, but a more permanent fix would be to reseal/replace the oil pump. It could also be the oil pump relief spring or the oil galley O-ring on the cam tower(s) that has failed, but more than 75% of the TOD is caused by an internally bypassing oil pump or cavitation.

 

The "mickey mouse" seal is usually the culprit and can be had at Advance Auto Parts for approx 15 (kit, so you can replace the oil pump shaft seal and the pump body seal as well) or online at numerous places. Look for Oil pump seal kit.

 

i'm really hoping you're right on this one, @175eya said the same thing about the mickey mouse seal and suggested doing that first as well, vs. a whole new oil pump, but with what it'll take me w/ the help and patience of @175eya to do the work, i probably won't want to take the chance that i might have to take everything out again to do the pump as well.

 

thanks everyone who've replied to this thread. it's this kinda free education from the experience of others that keeps me glued to this message board.

 

thanks again,

 

Glen   

[l75eya]

Actually I'd recommend just replacing the whole pump. That's what I did on mine. I found it for like 70 bucks on ebay with the seals too. Wouldn't hurt to do the water pump too, but, hey, you never know. The original one might go for another 200,000 miles.

[GlenSz]

Actually I'd recommend just replacing the whole pump. That's what I did on mine. I found it for like 70 bucks on ebay with the seals too. Wouldn't hurt to do the water pump too, but, hey, you never know. The original one might go for another 200,000 miles.

 

my mistake, you did say just swap the whole pump, i think i confused it with when you first said it woulda been good to have that done when i got the timing belt replaced, same idea, if you're gonna bother taking all that out, might as well do that while you're in there. if i can get the water-pump, maybe i will do that too, although when i had the timing belt replaced, it fixed my overheating problem 100%, and now the temp gauge almost never goes above a 1/5th of the way up from dead cold, except when i run the A/C, which i had the opportunity to do for the first time a few days ago when we had our first 80 degree day (and it works great! ) even while driving on the highway midday, after driving around for at least an hour before that, while running the A/C as max cold and fan, the temp gauge only went up to just under halfway. seems like the water pump might be working fine, but who knows how long it's got left on it...correct me if i'm wrong, but there's no guarantee or way to know for sure, even if we were able to get a close look at it.

 

anyway, send me the link to the ebay auction for that oil pump w/ seals if you get a chance, i wanna take a look and order it asap. thanks again.

Edited April 12, 2013 by GlenSz

[l75eya]

Just checked on Ebay and I don't see any kits with the seals for a reasonable price. Just gotta keep a look out.

You can search for ea82 oil pump, subaru gl oil pump, and subaru loyale oil pump. Make sure you read the details, and if it has a picture the oil pump will look like the pictures in the thread I posted here:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124398-reassurance-thread-oil-pump-and-one-question/

Edited April 12, 2013 by l75eya

[l75eya]

Here's a rough and dirty guide to the process of replacing it too, if you're interested. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124630-oil-pump-replacement-brief-guide-just-as-brief-pictures/?do=findComment&comment=1052476

[GlenSz]

Just checked on Ebay and I don't see any kits with the seals for a reasonable price. Just gotta keep a look out.

 

You can search for ea82 oil pump, subaru gl oil pump, and subaru loyale oil pump. Make sure you read the details, and if it has a picture the oil pump will look like the pictures in the thread I posted here:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124398-reassurance-thread-oil-pump-and-one-question/

 

 

Here's a rough and dirty guide to the process of replacing it too, if you're interested. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124630-oil-pump-replacement-brief-guide-just-as-brief-pictures/?do=findComment&comment=1052476

 

i'll keep looking, but very impressed with your process and the needed adjustments you made, as far as fitting the new one in, nice work. hopefully i can get one and my TOD will soon be a thing of the past.

[MilesFox]

oil pump seals, and don't forget about the cam tower o-rings. It is highly unlikely that the oil pump itself will fail. And it os most probable that the associated seals have never been replaced.

[GlenSz]

Actually I'd recommend just replacing the whole pump. That's what I did on mine. I found it for like 70 bucks on ebay with the seals too. Wouldn't hurt to do the water pump too, but, hey, you never know. The original one might go for another 200,000 miles.

 

just spoke w/ the garage i brought my Loyale to when the timing belt went. and they said when they replaced it and reset the timing, they put in a new water pump, which would explain why i wasn't overheating anymore as soon as i got it back from them, so i'm good on the water pump. 

 

ordered that new oil pump w/ seals off craiglist that @CoyotePaws was nice enough to text me about and send me a link to. 

 

should be in the mail tmrw, so looking forward to seeing if i can finally eliminate my TOD.

 

then i'll start looking into suspension and some new'bigger wheels. whole other ball of wax.

 

cheers!