NTR Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 I am in the process of working on a 86 Brat that is having its bearings replaced. We did one side already and noticed something odd on this one. It appears in the one done before there was a metal piece between the two bearings. The issue lies with the other one does not contain one. Pictures will probably help here see below. As you can see this one had something between the two bearings. The one I am working on is missing this. Is this something I should replace or does it matter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 You need to have that spacer between the bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTR Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share Posted April 25, 2013 You need to have that spacer between the bearings. That is what I figured. Who ever messed with it before decided it wasn't nessacary. Thanks for the reply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 if you dont have the spacer in it puts stress or side loads on the inner race when you torq it down. im suprized it lasted as long as it did like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTR Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share Posted April 25, 2013 if you dont have the spacer in it puts stress or side loads on the inner race when you torq it down. im suprized it lasted as long as it did like that. Might explain why the axle nut was loose. Might also explain why both wheel bearings failed miserably. We are finding out who ever had this before hand wasn't the brightest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apintonut Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 good info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTR Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 So we ran into another problem. After getting the new sealed bearings pressed in ( 6207 2RDC3 from a local McGuire Bearing Co.) we cannot get the new axle to go through. Short of taking a hammer and pounding the knuckle literally on the axle it will not go through. To clarify, The axle will go through until the first raised area meant to make contact with the bearing. Once it gets to this point it will not go any further. From my measurements I was getting from the Axle the first raised area (after groves for hub) were 34.92-.95mm (outer bearing contact) and 34.88-.90mm (inner bearing contact) where as the measurements for the bearing opening were 34.90mm. Clearly not fitting. This axle is an Oreilly remain if that makes a difference. I am curious if its Bearings fault or axles fault. I could be getting bad measurements. I know it should be a snug fit but should not require hammering on? Any advice is appreciated. I'd rather not have to press the bearings again but it is the case these are wrong bearings I will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 (edited) yes you need the spacer, same era Gen-2 subaru. I understand your find, a car I purchased came with a odd length spacer, so couldn't put cotter pin in as nut wouldn't thread in far enough... wrong spacer.. so assure same general era of car. some can be stinkers to pull through. A smear of grease on bearing surface etc.. I would look at the axle.. possibly dimension another at the parts store. I looked at going to those sealed bearings (used in Electric motors). I was assured the 6207 was the critical number, the rest.. blahh, blahh, was more factory rating, speed, etc.. so everything you described should work. Do a "search" on that topic from task bar above regarding pulling them through. Everyone has their own way that works for them. I prefer several large washers as stacking spacers, (assure I.D. of washer is larger the O.D of axle and O.D of washer rests on hub), I use shaft collars like you would get from farm supply store just a tad smaller o.d. than the bearing to tap bearings in and use as spacers and axle nut and washers to pull axle through. Normally that first section should be easy enough to get the shaft end just past the hub to get one washer and castle nut on shaft end and tighten to begin the process... and repeat stacking washers/spacers and tightening nut to suck it through. sorry not much help but it should be working for you? Edited May 2, 2013 by Indrid cold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTR Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 yes you need the spacer, same era Gen-2 subaru. One of my cars came with a mixed size, so couldn't put cotter pin in as nut wouldn't thread in far enough... wrong spacer.. so assure same general era of car. some can be stinkers to pull through. A smear of grease on bearing surface etc.. Do a "search" on that topic regarding pulling them through. Everyone has their own set up. All the bearing installs etc.. can be done on car, read search topic but having them pressed in is good to. If I remember right, (6207) It should fit. "6207" with rebuilt axle = Most use several large washers as stacking spacers, (assure I.D. of washer is larger the O.D of axel and O.D of washer rests on hub), I use shaft collars like you would get from farm supply store to tap bearings in and use as spacers and axle nut and washers to pull axle through. Normally that first section should be easy enough to get the shaft end just past the hub to get spacer and nut on end and tighten to pull through... sorry not much help but it should be working for you? Micrometers can be a bit tricky to get accurate measurements. Not questioning your ability, just the variables. What you described should work. The spacer was replaced with one out of another assembly. So that was addressed correctly. It could very well be a case that I can't measure very accurate with my micrometer. I will attempt to get a better read to make sure I'm getting correct measurements. Maybe a bit more lube and a bit more persuading Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 freeze the axle? once you get a couple threads through you can usually pry them through with two hammers/ screwdrivers. good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 I have had this problem. A different axle fixed it. It sucks. I can't help but wonder if there was a bad batch of CV joints let loose on the rebuilders. I have done several, only ever had the problem once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTR Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 (edited) I have had this problem. A different axle fixed it. It sucks. I can't help but wonder if there was a bad batch of CV joints let loose on the rebuilders. I have done several, only ever had the problem once. We got it on with the use of a rubber mallet and some grease. I was almost to the point of taking the Axle back under warranty. It is on and went all the way up so it took some work. Edited May 3, 2013 by NTR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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