gravitate Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 I have a 91 legacy and it keeps popping out of 4th gear while driving so I figure with 327k on it it's time for a new tranny. It is a 5 spd AWD. I am wondering which trannys will fit. I would like to get one out of a newer car with less miles so 90 to 94 will probably have too many miles. I was told after 94 something about the exhaust hangers are differant which doesn't bother me, I just want to make sure the wiring and componants are the same. And does anyone know for sure what the final drive gear is 390 or 411? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 The final drive ratio in your 91 AWD 5MT is 4.11. The main difference/change that occured in the mid-to-late 90's is that the number of bolts between the engine & transmission increased from 4 to 8. When this happened they no longer had the lower stud for the starter. So if you use one of those transmissions you'll need to add a stud. This is what I did for my 6spd swap Starter – Since the newer motors have an 8-bolt setup vs. the older 4-bolt setup, you'll need to do something for the lower starter mount hole. The best option is to use an M14x1.5 bolt aprox 40-45 mm long. You'll need to tap the lower bolt hole on the trans and drill out the lower bolt hole on the starter to 9/16". More info can be found in this thread. You may also need the newer style starter, I'm not 100% sure. I needed the newer style starter for my 6spd swap. The other difference is the shifter joint is different. You'll need to either swap your old joint on the new transmission, which isn't a big deal, or upgrade to the newer style linkage, again not a huge issue. Lastly, you'll need to unscrew the speed sensor from the transmission and screw the piece in that attaches to the cable. Those are the big items I can think of. The wiring should be the same. The connector at the top of the transmission may be two 2-pin connectors vs. one 4-pin connector. However the actual sensors in the transmission are the same so you can just remove the harness from your transmission and put it on the newer transmission so you don't need to jack with the wiring. I don't know if the exhaust mounting bracket is different, but again, you should be able to just remove the one from your older transmission and put it on the newer one. I'd suggest sticking with a transmission that is no newer that early 2000's. I don't know when, but Subaru did away with speed sensors in the transmission and used the abs tone sensors for speed input. So if you get a transmission without the speed sensor in it, then you will have issues. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravitate Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 Awesome, thanks for the info. So from what I understand Subaru started going to the 8 bolt trannys in 2000 so all I'm wondering now is if I find something 411 pre 2000 if I will still have to make modifications for the starter. any idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 any manual from 96-98 with an ej25 will have the fd ratio you need. the 8 bolt bellhousing started in 99. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 When did the non-turbo 5MT go from cable pull to hydraulic push? I think it was around 95? 96? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 97 and later will be hydro clutch. You'll need to swap the location of the pivot ball, and swap the clutch fork from the old trans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 the turbos were push, na hydros were still pull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 the turbos were push, na hydros were still pull It's backwards, the turbos used a pull clutch setup, while the non-turbos used a push style clutch setup. This was the case until about 2006 or so and then the WRX 5spds starting using the push style clutch setup as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 97 and later will be hydro clutch. You'll need to swap the location of the pivot ball, and swap the clutch fork from the old trans. I haven't dealt with this, but doesn't the clutch slave cylinder mount to a point on the engine bell housing? If so, if that's not there on the older engines, that'll cause an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravitate Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 any manual from 96-98 with an ej25 will have the fd ratio you need. the 8 bolt bellhousing started in 99. So I found a 97 legacy L wagon with the ej22 in it. Do you think that would have the same ratio? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 no, it will be a 3.90 ratio, usable but you will have to swap the rear diff as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 not sure where you're located but a guy in Oregon has a tranny for sale on legacy central http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=51838 5MT trans swap OBO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravitate Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 Dang I keep striking out. I'm in Colorado. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 (edited) I haven't dealt with this, but doesn't the clutch slave cylinder mount to a point on the engine bell housing? If so, if that's not there on the older engines, that'll cause an issue. No the slave cyl. mounting points are on the trans part of the bell, not the engine bell. To the OP. Popping out of 4th means the top shaft (input) is walking fore and aft in the case. This is almost certainly from a failed input shaft rear bearing. The bearing, and a few other seals toghether would on;y be about $100-$150 bucks from the dealer. The uppershaft bearing is actually pretty easy to change once the case is split. Only the 5th gearset needs to be removed. If the trans otherwise shifts, and drives well, with no pinion whine......you could probably get alot more life out of it, and not have any leaks. If you were closer, I'd say bring it to me and I can do it very reasonable...but I'd bet there is someone in your area that could do it or you could even do it yourself if you've got the place/time. Edited May 3, 2013 by Gloyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Ok, thanks for the clarification on the mounting point for the clutch slave cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Input shaft bearings are a common failure on these 5mt. There is a thread in here where GD mentions a turbo 5mt bearing is a better replacement since it has nine ball bearings instead of five. Might be worth fixing your trans and make it better than it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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