Oil pump change on 92 Loyale - what is DIY procedure?

[MC92Loyaleowner]

After reading some on this forum, I sarted to take the oil pump out on my "new to me" older Loyale. I got half the cover off but can't see how to get the other half off without  taking the whole front of the car off. (radiator,  housing, etc)

 

If anyone here can tell me the easiest way to do this I'd appreciate it! (Or, let me know there is no easy way so I can  drop back and punt.)

 

I do know already this is what needs doing first on this car.

It has LOUD ticking and oil pressure goes almost immediately, within 2 miles, to just above 0. Other indicators fit with what people on this forum solved by a reseal or change oil pump.

 

 

[MC92Loyaleowner]

P.S. from MC92LoyaleOwner

 

It's a 4wd wagon, 5 spd.

[idosubaru]

oil pressure gauges often show low in those and Subaru even had notes about it in some of their literature.

 

we have the links to the 1988 Subaru XT and Loyale service manual here:

http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5680

 

the 88 XT will be identical to your loyale in terms of the timing belt and oil pump - same motor, just slightly different intake/fuel delivery.

 

it's not hard at all mechanically speaking, EA82's are simple and there's no special tools, it's a noninterference engine so no worries about timing and valve damage.

 

remove the clutch fan (if equipped - i think all loyale's have the clutch type?)

remove serpentine belts and tensioner pulleys/brackets - anything in front of the timing covers.

then remove the timing covers - just keep following them all the way around and remove all the timing belt cover bolts - all 10mm.

 

some of the 10mm timing cover bolts are like tucked up under the A/C and power steering pump brackets, etc - but nothing tricky about them, just gotta get down there and see them. feel for them with fingers or use a mechanics mirror.

 

removing the crank pulley is the only tricky part just because it's on tight.  place the socket with extension pipe up against a lower frame support area and crank the starter, that works every time.

make sure you tigthen the bolt REALLY hard when reinstalling.  they do back off when not installed tight enough and cause issues. the crank is iron so it won't strip unlike the aluminum block.

 

i've had EA82 engine oil seals not fit properly and leak shortly after install when using aftermarket seals so i try to stick with Subaru for the cam, crank, oil pump seals/gaskets.

 

good idea to pick up an ebay timing belt kit while it's all apart. all new belts and pulleys for like $60 or $80, great deal.  the existing pulleys are almost guaranteed not to be that great of condition.  20+ year old grease.

[MC92Loyaleowner]

Thanks so much for your quick response.  This was just what I needed to know. 

 

MC

[MilesFox]

Take off the skid plate underneath. If you have high enough jack stands or ramps, some of it is easier to get to from underneath if you can do it without being on your back.

 

I like to take out the radiator for access. You have to remove the crank pulley to get the inner timing belt cover off, or just break it off. You can forego the belt covers when going back together. You will have to remove the crank pulley to install a timing belt cover. Covers or not is about a 50/50 preference with people on the forum.

I would only remove the crank pulley if you are going to do the front seal while it is apart.

 

The above advise about bumping a breaker bar with the starter is a clever trick. make sure of the rotation of the bar; be careful!

 

I like to remove the radiator if doing a full front service to the engine. Read up about proper burping procedure when reinstalling the coolant so as to not get an air pocket and accidentally overheat. This is tricky but the proper procedures are well described.

[MR_Loyale]

oil pressure gauges often show low in those and Subaru even had notes about it in some of their literature.

 

we have the links to the 1988 Subaru XT and Loyale service manual here:

http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5680

 

the 88 XT will be identical to your loyale in terms of the timing belt and oil pump - same motor, just slightly different intake/fuel delivery.

 

it's not hard at all mechanically speaking, EA82's are simple and there's no special tools, it's a noninterference engine so no worries about timing and valve damage.

 

remove the clutch fan (if equipped - i think all loyale's have the clutch type?)

remove serpentine belts and tensioner pulleys/brackets - anything in front of the timing covers.

then remove the timing covers - just keep following them all the way around and remove all the timing belt cover bolts - all 10mm.

 

some of the 10mm timing cover bolts are like tucked up under the A/C and power steering pump brackets, etc - but nothing tricky about them, just gotta get down there and see them. feel for them with fingers or use a mechanics mirror.

 

removing the crank pulley is the only tricky part just because it's on tight.  place the socket with extension pipe up against a lower frame support area and crank the starter, that works every time.

make sure you tigthen the bolt REALLY hard when reinstalling.  they do back off when not installed tight enough and cause issues. the crank is iron so it won't strip unlike the aluminum block.

 

i've had EA82 engine oil seals not fit properly and leak shortly after install when using aftermarket seals so i try to stick with Subaru for the cam, crank, oil pump seals/gaskets.

 

good idea to pick up an ebay timing belt kit while it's all apart. all new belts and pulleys for like $60 or $80, great deal.  the existing pulleys are almost guaranteed not to be that great of condition.  20+ year old grease.

 

+1 on the advice about tightening the crank bolt. Ask me how I know.

[MilesFox]

+1 on the advice about tightening the crank bolt. Ask me how I know.

This has happened to me before. use a long pipe and keep going after you torqued up the whole motor in gear with the driveline. You will have t be much more clever with an AT

[crazyhorse001]

An old mechanics trick for holding a motor still...

 

Get a length of nylon rope that just fits thru the spark plug hole. Make sure the cylinder you choose is coming up on the compression stroke. Hold your thumb over it, and you will feel it build pressure. Feed rope in until you cant, or until yu have a few inches left sticking out. For god's sake, dont feed it all in, or you'll be fishing it out lol

Edited May 6, 2013 by crazyhorse001

[Hondasucks]

My former master technician from when I worked at the dealership told me that the old EA82 cars and the Loyales used to tick like crazy even when they were new, due to the lifters draining down in transit. He said they used to take them out, get them warmed up, and then run them up to 6-7,000 RPM in first gear once or twice, and that would pump up the lifters and make the tick go away. I wouldn't try it on an old one though lol.. although I did do it once on my 87 Turbo and it did make the tick go away. The problem is there are 3 or 4 things that cause the tick:

 

1. weak oil pressure regulator spring in the head (There is one in each head, it's under the banjo bolt that holds the cam spray bar in. This valve bleeds off a little bit of oil pressure to feed the cam spray bar, but with age the spring weakens and allows too much pressure to get to the cam spray bar, which causes the lifters to not have enough pressure to stay fully pumped up, which causes the excessive valve lash, which you hear as a tick.

 

2. Gummed up lifters - Over time and cheap oil, sludge builds up inside the lifters. Sometimes a good oil system flush and some marvel mystery oil along with a good quality oil will clean them up enough to make the tick at least reduce if not go away altogether after several oil changes.

 

3. Oil gallery o-ring in the head - This is between the cam tower and the cylinder head and feeds oil to the cam spray bar. When it leaks, it drops the oil pressure to the lifters, causing ticks. This is something that you'll want to get from the dealership, they are rather inexpensive (around $4 each) but are a special rubber coated washer. A regular O-ring will eventually lose its shape and cause it to leak. Secure in place with a drop of superglue when replacing.

 

4. "Mickey mouse" gasket in the oil pump. These crack/deform with age and leak, letting air into the system, which will usually collect in the lifters, causing noise. 

 

Low oil pressure can also cause it, you can always get an oil pressure gauge from an auto parts store (Most stores have rental pressure gauges) that you can thread into the oil filter housing (just remove the oil pressure sending unit) to check the oil pressure, since the gauge in the dash is rarely accurate.

[idosubaru]

This has happened to me before. use a long pipe and keep going after you torqued up the whole motor in gear with the driveline. You will have t be much more clever with an AT

the AT's are the easiest.  just stick a socket extension or very stout screwdriver through the flexplate access hole and the engine is locked.

the manuals are the trickiest as the driveline generally leaves a lot of give and absorbs much of the force instead of going into the bolt.

 

If resealing doesn't solve it, usually replacing the oil pump does.  Here's a detailed thread:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/?hl=%2Btick+%2Bdeath&do=findComment&comment=1159424

 

bleeding down is not likely to solve quarter of a century old vehicles like it did new ones.  those of us that have rebuilt these HLA motors have heard it many times before though - they are unbelievably noisy upon first start up.  run them 30 minutes and they quiet down, there's no need for high RPM's....but that's fun exercise for the mechanics who got to run new cars. LOL

Edited May 6, 2013 by grossgary