replaced transfer clutches

[soobie_newbie67]

but they seem tight. we got that ring in on top and everything, but u can't physically spin the clutches in the housing by hand. is that normal for New clutches?

 

woops. almost forgot. 1996 legacy outback

Edited May 14, 2013 by soobie_newbie67

[presslab]

There are different sized pressure plates depending on what you need.  They are expensive though, about $45.  Did you replace the steels too?  Maybe you can use your old steels.  You should have 0.2-0.6mm of clearance when new, wear limit 1.6mm.

31593AA151   3.3mm
31593AA161   3.7mm
31593AA171   4.1mm
31593AA181   4.5mm

[soobie_newbie67]

We went to a local trans shop that ordered them for us, cause the dealer didnt have any in stock and they would have had to order them from Japan, which would have put us off till August.  Anyway, the guy put in the correct order (he mic'd the clutches) but his supplier accidentally sent the wrong ones.  We'll be taking another stab at this tomorrow.

 

Its cool cause we only paid 60 bucks for the clutches and metal plates, and the DEALER told us to go there!  go figure.  And i noted the clutches said Allomatic on them, which when googled i found out Raybestos makes them.  I'm gonna hope and assume they are gonna be good quality cause Raybestos is legit.

[presslab]

Yes the dealer ones are expensive, but then they include the steels whether you want them or not.

 

 

I generally aim for the high side of clearance (0.6mm) to lessen the torque bind.

[soobie_newbie67]

ok. cool. and our dealer didn't include the steel ones. it was 26 bucks a piece for the clutches and 24 bucks a piece for the steels.

[presslab]

It's usually sold as a full set frictions and steels, pn: 31523AA410, about $115. Selling them individually at that price is crazy.

[ivans imports]

i set them up as tight as i can get them if to loose awd will be slugish and when they are new they are fairly tight make shure you change the slip rings on tailshaft output and check for groves in housing you can also air check the awd clutchpack by puting it in its housing and puting air thru the circut and watch the clutchpack a few apps might losten it up

[presslab]

i set them up as tight as i can get them if to loose awd will be slugish and when they are new they are fairly tight make shure you change the slip rings on tailshaft output and check for groves in housing you can also air check the awd clutchpack by puting it in its housing and puting air thru the circut and watch the clutchpack a few apps might losten it up

 

What do you mean as tight as you can get them?  Tighter than the 0.2mm minimum spec?  It probably depends on the line pressure in the trans if it's prone to torque bind or not.  If the trans is worn out and doesn't shift firm (low line pressure due to worn seals) then you would want to set them up on the tighter side.

 

Checking the housing is a good idea.  In mid-97 they came out with an updated housing with a steel liner to prevent this grooving.

[ivans imports]

There is only so mutch room for addjustment I mean as tighter is better within reason I find that less clearance makes them faster to come on to tight could be problem to on the race buggy i set it at 0 clearance and full line preshure to clutchpack just for racing. I have had to go back in and reset clearance on center diffs that had to mutch clearance whould take 2 or 3 turns of front wheel before rear whould come on titen up clearance and awd right now the front should not spin at all awd should be instant