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clock replacement/dash removal ques.


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1990 Loyale

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My old clock is no longer repairable and I was fortunate enough to find a replacement.  The replacement has a plug connector but I can't reach or find the connector on the old one. 

 

The replacement is from a 92 Subie. Perhaps my '90 doesn't have a plug connector ??

 

The only apparent  access seems to be removal of  the dash section that holds the clock, but I'm only seeing two screws at the top near the windshield.  What other hidden screws are there ?

 

 

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Well, when I replaced mine, I didn't even know of the connector. I just popped the clock out from the dash using a small screwdriver. Then I just cut the four wires from the old clock and spliced 'em to the wires on the new clock. It's been working ever since. Not necessarily the "clean" way to do it, but it only takes 15 minutes, maybe, and you don't have to take apart anything else.

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Well, on the 90 Loyale, neither removing the radio nor dropping the glove box provides access to the clock connector.

 

Still looking for the obvious way of removing the top dash panel that holds the clock .

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I gave up on trying to get to the connector plug.  The clock wires run down behind a vertical compartment behind the radio for the air duct work and getting to all of that was just looking to be too complicated. 

 

Finally had to concede to cutting and adding plug connectors onto the wires.  These never look good, but the clock is working so it'll have to do.

Edited by Dee2
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Well, on the 90 Loyale, neither removing the radio nor dropping the glove box provides access to the clock connector.

 

Still looking for the obvious way of removing the top dash panel that holds the clock .

dude. its totally possible. I have a 91, same exact deal (except i have auto belts and you might not). Next time, take the clock out and jiggle it around, see those wires moving? the plugs up there. glad you got it sorted out tho. btw what do you mean "unrepairable"

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The 91, 92 and 94 I've pulled clocks from, you drop the glovebox until you can reach past the insert and the connector is wrapped up in a foam-tape to prevent rattling (I imagine). Pop the clock out and the light from the hole will illuminate the wires and you can feel for the connector. I've got a clock for sale if you want..

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I had the clock out and jiggled / pulled wires to find the connector but the wires from the clock went behind some vertical panel and are not visible from the glove box area or from behind the radio. 

 

I used a flashlight and mirrors trying to see the route of the wires, and I could see it went behind some vertical panel which was behind the radio and would have required  way too much disassembly to get at it.

 

The old clock is unrepairable because it's not a matter of loose solder connections anymore, all the connections are solid.  Something is burned out and there is no display at all .  It would have to go to an electrical shop which would likely cost more than buying a replacement.  My replacement was $20.00 + shipping..  It is installed and working now.  Unfortunately,  I had to cut and splice the wires to get it installed.

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OP:  Sorry for not getting back to you in a timely manner regarding repairing your clock.

 

The connector is accessible, as others have said, by tilting the glovebox down and outwards,  The connector is typically wrapped in sticky foam at the back left of the cavity, about 2/3rds up.  The best way, in my experience, to find the wires is to unseat the clock from the dash and tug at the wire harness on the back while feeling the wires at the left back of the glovebox cavity.  It is there, it is accessible, and annoying but doable.

 

Something to note is that the Loyale uses a a different connector than do the pre-Loyales.  (There may be some crossover a little earlier that I do not know about.)  The Loyale takes a 4-position connector while the earlier EA82s take a 6-position connector with only 4 positions populated.  (XTs may be some exception:  They are mounted differently and I have never pulled one.)  

 

The resistor is a 2 watt 75 ohm resistor.  It is used to drop the voltage from 12+V to 5V, and dissipates far too much heat for its rating and mounting.  A second resistor drops the 5V down to around 2V to be used by the display.  If either one of those, or a couple other parts, have a bad solder joint (Can't tell if they are good just by looking at them), then the display won't function. 

 

I have started repairing clocks again, having gotten a decent supply of resistors, a couple spare clocks, and the time to start up again.  I am also mounting the resistors somewhat differently, using the entire inch or so of leads on each end to act as heat dissipators.

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In my case the plug location wasn't as described,. I won't argue it further.    As for replacing resistors, that's all new ground for me and perhaps if I find a fair price for getting the old clock repaired I will look into that option.

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Just send your old clock to NorthWet.... he'll probably fix it for the price of a short case.

Don't throw it away.

I will be reposting my free service a little later, once I have had time to verify that I have replacements ready to ship. 

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open your glovebox, push in the corners and itll open all the way down. youll see the connector.

Yup, this is the trick for sure.

 

those screws under those panels are for removing the whole dash board. that plastic trim for the defroster vents is part of the whole supstructure of the dash, and the rubber pad would come off from that, but not in any way it is meant to be removed. Since you asked, the rest of the screws are behind the pop iut panels on the bottom of the dash, and 2 screws under the radio behind the center console once you remove that.

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In my case the plug location wasn't as described,. I won't argue it further.    As for replacing resistors, that's all new ground for me and perhaps if I find a fair price for getting the old clock repaired I will look into that option.

. Dude you gotta just shove your hand up In there. There is a connector and they are all in the same place.
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