06 Forester with 120k, how long will it last?

[mattri]

Have an 06 Forester LL Bean with the 2.5 with 120k on it.  Car was bought new and has been maintained pretty well.  Did the timing belts, water and oil pump at 85k, regular oil changes, trans was flushed at about 80k, have changed spark plugs and wires at regular intervals, bled the brakes and new pads around a year ago. 

 

It's been a good car, nothing to complain about really, but now that it is getting up there on miles we're debating whether we should sell or keep it. 

 

I've owned a number of older subies (80s/90s gls, loyales etc) that ran well past 200/250k, but really don't know anything about Foresters, the 2.5 or their overall longevity.

 

This is obviously a Subie fan site and we do like the car, but what is a realistic expectation for low maintenance life out of this car?  At what point are we better off selling it now, when we can get the most out of it instead of hanging onto it too long? 

 

Thanks, Matt.

[lmdew]

As long as it has been maintained, there is no reason you can't get many more miles out of it.  

If you do have something big, it's still better than car payments IMHO.

 

I have 312K on a 98 Impreza OBS.

[mattri]

Thanks for the reply.  What all have you done to your Imprezza?

 

If we were to keep the car, what would be some thing to look a in the way of preventative maintenance?

[Suzam]

Sounds like you've stayed on top of maintainence.

 

I'm a fan of changing the front and rear differential oil around 100-120k. I usually do a synthetic replacement but dino would be fine too.

 

Check for general oil seepage from the valve covers, O rings and head gaskets etc. and watch for unever tire wear from worn out suspention parts

Edited May 25, 2013 by Suzam

[Subaru_dude]

My friends '07 Forester blew a headgasket after a hose blew and it overheated, but it had just shy of 150,000 and it had some performance upgrades. Judging by the ride (worn out shocks) and scrapes here and there on the undercarriage, it was probably driven pretty hard. The car ran GREAT and shifted nice and smooth despite a rough life. If it hadn't overheated, I'd say it would have lasted a very very long time.

[1-3-2-4]

That's crazy thinking about selling a '06 Forester with only 120K I did my headgaskets at 220K on my '97 2.5 outback and I still saw the factory hone marks, I'm near 260K now.

[johnceggleston]

 

06 Forester with 120k, how long will it last?

if you maintain it,

 

until you wreck it.

[mattri]

Good to know so many are having good luck with their Foresters. 

 

Is the front diff not part of the transaxle?  Changing the gear oil is a good call, will add that to the preventative maintenance list. 

 

The suspension and steering parts are something else I've considered changing out.  This car has been driven very easily since day one, just like to get things changed out before they go. 

 

Should I be looking at head gaskets? 

 

What about electrical?

 

Anything else to watch out for? 

[mikaleda]

It all depends on maintenance, I have an 80 with 130k on it that was just about dead when I got it because it was so badly maintained, but I have a 90 legacy that has 211k that is in great shape because it was well maintained. Aside from known problematic years and engines you could get 300k without major repair as long as you take care of it.

[ivans imports]

have many foresters / outbacks with over 400000kms on them and a legacy that comes in with 575000kms on it motor never been out or had a day off the more they are driven the longer it lasts

[mikec03]

There's no need to PM the head gasket.  When it starts to leak, it will be slow and you will have plenty of time to fix it.  It will start to spot your driveway.  This would be a good time, however, to develop a relationship to a non dealership subaru expert.

 

Other things that will need fixing.  I've lost a few starters and alternators after 150K and you could PM them because these these failures will stop you.  Another common failure is the 6 boots on the front axils and steering.  Keep checking them and replace immediately after tearing.   The muffler/resonator flanges will corrode out eventially.  Just keep checking them and find an independent muffler place that will weld them solid or weld on new flanges.

 

One more thing.  Drain and refill your transmission every 30K in order to prevent failure of the transfer clutch [torque bind].  If you haven't done it at all, do three drain and fills now.

[mattri]

Great indformation thanks.  Best ATF to use?

[1-3-2-4]

There's no need to PM the head gasket.  When it starts to leak, it will be slow and you will have plenty of time to fix it.  It will start to spot your driveway.  This would be a good time, however, to develop a relationship to a non dealership subaru expert.

 

Other things that will need fixing.  I've lost a few starters and alternators after 150K and you could PM them because these these failures will stop you.  Another common failure is the 6 boots on the front axils and steering.  Keep checking them and replace immediately after tearing.   The muffler/resonator flanges will corrode out eventially.  Just keep checking them and find an independent muffler place that will weld them solid or weld on new flanges.

 

One more thing.  Drain and refill your transmission every 30K in order to prevent failure of the transfer clutch [torque bind].  If you haven't done it at all, do three drain and fills now.

About the starter.. DON'T buy the whole starter when it's just $6 for starter contacts.. I'm not sure how much the OP was wants to do but I changed mine in my car in 20 min.. Your call.. $6 contacts or $200 starter

[Rooster2]

Great indformation thanks.  Best ATF to use?

Best ATF??..................IMHO, there isn't much difference in ATF by all the manufacturers. To me it is all the same, whether it be ATF or synthetic ATF. I have used Walmart ATF for the past 10 years with no issues. The important thing is to change the ATF at 30K intervals. Subaru makes it easy with a screw in drain plug on the tranny, so the ATF can be drained just like doing an oil change. Your Forester will have a screw on ATF filter. Looks just like an oil filter. Prolly good idea to replace the filter every 100K miles.

[mikaleda]

Best ATF??..................IMHO, there isn't much difference in ATF by all the manufacturers. To me it is all the same, whether it be ATF or synthetic ATF. I have used Walmart ATF for the past 10 years with no issues. The important thing is to change the ATF at 30K intervals. Subaru makes it easy with a screw in drain plug on the tranny, so the ATF can be drained just like doing an oil change. Your Forester will have a screw on ATF filter. Looks just like an oil filter. Prolly good idea to replace the filter every 100K miles.

Synthetic ATF? Isn't all ATF synthetic?

[Rooster2]

Synthetic ATF? Isn't all ATF synthetic?

I think the difference is that regular ATF is petroleum based, ATF labeled "synthetic" is not.

[mikaleda]

Or it's a marketing scam to make people pay more for their product your probably right though.

[idosubaru]

200k is not a big deal.  you're likely to have a couple maintenance items by 200,000 miles like the most common would be:  wheel bearing, alternator, cv boots, knock sensor, P0420 code...

 

i try to focus on items that leave the car stranded without warning.

batteries and alternators can give little warning, leave you stranded, and are wear items/fail often enough that i have replaced those in my daily drivers.

my daily drivers got new Subaru alternators between 150k-200k (currently at 180k and 211k).

unfortunately subaru alternators are pricey and aftermarkets are less reliable so you're original Subaru alternator might be more reliable than a replacement aftermarket.

 

make sure you reboot your cv axles when the boots break, do *not* replace the axles no matter what a mechanic wants to do.

 

i would change the front diff fluid and do a coolant change with Subaru's coolant conditioner (required for that motor).

spark plugs and wires?

[hohieu]

I have 175K miles on my '99 -- with all the information available on the internet nowadays and coming from Toyotas and Hondas I was at first skeptical about its long term reliability. It has surpassed my expectations and if the body doesn't rot out, I'd like to turn 300K miles.

Yours should last a while. Why did you replace the t-belt at 85K, and what was replaced (e.g, idlers, H20 pump, cam & crank seals)? Belts rarely snap -- it's usually a bad idler, usually the cogged one that fails and shreds the belt in the process.

Ball joints and steering linkages are pretty solid on these cars -- no need to replace unless there's play in the joint.

The next major foreseeable expense might be the struts -- not too bad if you do them yourself. I just replaced them on my car, and the original ones were just starting to go bad -- not fully blown but definitely on their last legs.

Wheel bearings can go on any higher mileage car. You can help prolong the life of front ones by replacing the inner wheel seal when replacing your CV half shafts.

I replace the coolant every 60K miles/4-5 years -- most of the stuff on the market today is long life. I just do a drain-and-fill to refresh the corrosion inhibitors but on a neglected cooling system, you may need to flush.

I have a manual, but would do as others have suggested with your auto.

1-3-2-4, on 27 May 2013 - 20:12, said:
About
the starter.. DON'T buy the whole starter when it's just $6 for starter
contacts.. I'm not sure how much the OP was wants to do but I changed
mine in my car in 20 min.. Your call.. $6 contacts or $200 starter

On the older Denso starters, replacing contacts is very easy and definitely worthwhile. Forester starters are equipped with a sealed solenoid, on which It is possible to replace the contacts, just a more delicate and time consuming process.

As usual, great advice from grossgary -- you might have better luck with a used, lower mileage alternator from a junk yard, which can be had on ebay.

As mentioned, the CV half shafts made by NTN Bearing Company of Japan will last the life of the vehicle if boots are replaced in a timely manner. The front inner one is usually the first to go, especially on the right where it's directly above the catalytic convertor. I bought a used OEM unit that I rebooted and rotated into the mix. This way, I have a good one ready and can reboot the spare whenever I have the chance.

Edited May 31, 2013 by hohieu

[presslab]

Great indformation thanks.  Best ATF to use?

 

I use Valvoline MaxLife DEX/MERC.  It's synthetic and pretty cheap on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/automotive/dp/B000CQ262C

[mattri]

Thanks again for the replies, sorry in the delay getting back. 

 

The timing belts were changed because we lived very far from any decent shops and were going to be back in Denver where there is an awesome independent suby shop.  Had the belts, idlers, cams water and oil pump done. 

 

Looks like I need to change the ATF, check the boots and look at the alternator, starter and battery. 

[idosubaru]

that's a complete front end timing kit job - excellent and it's good for 100,000 miles from when that was done.

i'd change the ATF, front diff, and rear diff oil (though the front is far more important).  spark plugs and wires.

 

i wouldn't worry about alternator until much later, 120k and this new is still really new.  i start thinking about replacement closer to 200k than 100k or by age if it's an 80's or 90's.

there's hardly any other preventative maintenance that needs done, you can replace as you see fit - struts, suspension won't cause you any failure, breakdown, or major issue.

[ivans imports]

Check rear suspention saddle for rust damage and front control arms