1990 Loyale - Front Wheel Bearings - tips needed

[rain_man_rich]

I got around to replacing the driver's side cv axle today.  I was surprised how easy the axle came through the two wheel bearings.  Upon inspection I found evidence of of water in the bearings and the grease was all rusty colored.  I did my best to wipe it all out and "repack" the bearings as best as I could while they were in the knuckle.  It's a short term fix at best and I'll be doing the wheel bearings and seals as soon as I get some.  When i put the new axle in I was able to merely pull the axle back into place by hand so I know it's all messed up.

 

I did some searching on the site to find out how in the world I'm going to remove the bearings from the knuckle.  They are the same size so I'm at a loss as to how to remove one of them to get to the other. Any tips, techniques, or pictorial threads would be greatly appreciated.  As most of you probably already know, the Clymer's repair manual says a special tool is needed so take it to the dealer for replacement.   I'd like to avoid that especially after the phone call today where the dealer didn't know what an EA82 or a cone washer was.

 

Also, my car is turbo with a 4EAT.  I'm assuming that the wheel bearings are the same for all EA82's.  Is this correct or not?

 

Thanks in advance for the replies.  This board is the BEST.

 

 

NOTE: Edited to replace "spindle" with "knuckle"

Edited May 31, 2013 by rain_man_rich

[MilesFox]

Drift punch. bang t hem out from the insides. Replace the seals, as this is what is causing the bearings to fail. The bearings should last the lfe of the seals.

[El Presidente]

The axle pulled through so easy because its an aftermarket axle and they're not made to original specification. Just to clarify, the spindle is attached to the cv axle and the bearings are mounted in the knuckle. Your gonna end up taking the knuckle off(after taking the axle out) and replacing the bearings on a bench. Use a big brass drift and a big hammer, if you don't have one, hit up harbor freight, they have a three drift kit and the biggest one works great. There's a couple write-ups on the board that will give you step by step directions.

 

I really recommend NOT going with the auto store bearing($40) and getting it at a bearing supplier($8). Its identical to the autoparts store one. I think the part number is 6207, but thats off the top of my head. I also really recommend going with a sealed bearing which I think is 6207 2RS($12)...they come water-tight sealed and prepacked with the perfect amount of grease, you can still run stock seals if you like, but they aren't required with a sealed unit. When installing, put the bearing in the freezer and put the cleaned knuckle in your oven set to warm or 200-250 degrees. This makes installing MUCH easier if you do it fast before the bearing warms up.

 

Josh

[rain_man_rich]

Knuckle, yes.  That's what I meant.  Thanks for the catch.  Big brass drift, check.  Frozen bearing, check.  I've used frozen bearings on motorcycles more times than I can count.  Makes sense to use that technique here.

[rain_man_rich]

Miles.  I was thinking about the drift.  The spacer is between the two bearings and limits access to drive the bearing out.   Is the trick to drive one bearing into the spacer which then will act on the second bearing and drive it out?  Kind of like driving the entire assembly out all at once?

[El Presidente]

You can't drive either bearing further into the knuckle if they're properly seated. Theres a shoulder that stops the bearing from going further in, you'll see when you get a bearing out. When driving out the first bearing, just push the spacer between the bearings to the side. Sometimes it will give some resistance, because its glued in by fried grease or packed in because someone put too much in, but it will move to the side. If you use sealed bearings, you don't need grease between the bearings. Theres no wrong way to remove the bearing, just get the drift seated on the inside of the bearing and thump away. I found a harbor freight 3lb baby sledge works awesome for this. Just keep moving the drift around so the bearing comes out squarely and you'll be fine.

 

Josh

[NorthWet]

The spacer is in a larger diameter portion of the knuckle, one that is usually filled with grease.  As stated just push the bearing radially out of the way.

 

Really important that the drift is brass (or some other soft material).  Otherwise you are likely to gouge the knuckle surfaces and make your day a whole lot longer... 

[MilesFox]

the piece in the middle should move aorund enough that you can get the drift punch behind it and onto the 'corner' of the bearing. 

 

I made a video detailing this, but have to re-edit and upload it as my rendered file somehow got lost.

[djellum]

my local machine shop pressed out the old ones, hot tanked the spindles, regreased and pressed in bearings, and installed seals for $35 a side.  great price if your a little bit lazy, plus its nice getting it tanked to remove all the ball joint rust.

 

on that note, pick up some ball joints as well, might as well replace them while its out.

[92_rugby_subie]

Thanks for having this issue! I did wheel bearings on my car not too long ago, but I hear them rattling, thinking I will be going with a 6207 SEALED bearing this time, maybe I didn't pack them enough... who knows.

 

Thinking of having Les Schwab use a press to stick them in, I know my friend works there, so he could probably press them in after hours no problem... need a new axle and new brakes anyway...

 

Is there a particular sealed bearing I should use? 6207 RS, but theres lots ranging from $8 to $21 dollars... whats the difference and is it REALLY worth the difference?

[92_rugby_subie]

Bump -- want to order wheel bearings shortly... Sealed bearings this time (just did wheel bearings 15K ago and already rattling and need replacement)

 

Which sealed bearings are best? Is there REALLY a difference?