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91 Subaru Loyale wont start, complicated issue HELP


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Hi There, First off I am new to this, but have read many articles on USMB before.

 

My problem is I was driving my 91 Subaru Loyale 4wd (226k) when it just shut off. Now all it will do is turn over, but wont even try to fire.

 

 

I have newer timing belts, which i checked and are set properly, newer head gaskets too, just passed smog 3 weeks ago.

 

I checked the fuel pump, working well, even changed all gas. Great spray coming from fuel injector (SPFI) in rythem.

 

I am getting spark, in rythem at each spark plug. Checked the screw on rotor and it didnt fall out.

 

Has newer exhaust.

 

No trouble codes

 

Fuseable links are good, even switched them out with extra set, all fuses under dash good.

 

Good compression, definately not a mechanical issue, has to be electrical, fuel or air????

 

Ive worked on subarus for a while and I still have NO clue whats wrong..... Getting spark, air , and fuel (even with starter fluid nothing). I have heard of this problem once before and the car just went to the scrap yard, I really dont want to do that to my subie.....

 

Anyone have a similar problem? Possible relay, computer, or bad electrical????

 

Same as this artical, but I need an answer http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129943-problem-with-loyale/

 

 

PLEASE HELP! I am defiantely dealing with a more advanced issue than a bad fuel pump, coil, fuse, or timing belt, etc issue cause I have ruled those all out.

 

What should I try now, I am becoming desperate.

 

Thank You For Your Help!!!

Edited by capthook
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I've had a rotor pop off the disty. Cause the screw was loose somehow... still got spark but all at the wrong times... pull yur cap and try to spin the rotor just be nice and don't break ot... it should be very loose if it is...and I thonk tuere is a thread on that on here somewhere about that

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Hi,

  my 2cents  is go back and check the timing belts again,, i have seen them strip teeth and not break,,  the belt was still tight and in place,,,  but ignition timing would be way off.  just check if the marks are still in line for sure.     if that is not the problem  , try another coil barcket , actually the electrical component made onto the coil bracket , it's made on so it's easier to just change the whole bracket.  this part gave me much misery on a 91 loyale  till i found it was my problem,  and like you said i had spark and belts and fuel but would not run.

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... i have seen them strip teeth and not break,,  the belt was still tight and in place,,,  but ignition timing would be way off.  ,,,.

 

Something similar to that happened in my "BumbleBeast" once ... Since that, I Run the timing belts Coverless.

 

In my Case, one of the Timing Belts did loss some of its teeth...

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Thank You all for your help, today I am going to re-time my subaru.

What are those componenets on the coil bracket? I have eyeing that little electronic piece on the bracket. I have a brand new coil on the car (thought that was the original issue). Anyone know what that piece is called on the bracket?

 

Also has anyone ever had their subaru flood out on fuel before, could it be related to throttle position sensor?


Once again thank you everyone for your help, I definately need the expertise and assistant. I will update tomorrow!

Thanks Ryan

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Without seeing what "piece" you are referring to, it is probably either the "ignitor" (coil's switching-transistor) or the doodad that reduces RFI noise caused by the ignition.

 

If  you are in fact getting a good spark, properly timed, then the ignition system has already been eliminated as the problem.

 

The TPS is mostly used for telling the ECU if you are idle or WOT... a couple of on/off switches. 

 

Are your spark plugs wet with fuel?  If not, probably not a flooding condition.

 

Something is not set the way you perceive it to be.

Edited by NorthWet
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I've had a rotor pop off the disty. Cause the screw was loose somehow... still got spark but all at the wrong times... pull yur cap and try to spin the rotor just be nice and don't break ot... it should be very loose if it is...and I thonk tuere is a thread on that on here somewhere about that

 

Similar happened to me several times except the set screw came all the way off the shaft and the rotor wouldn't spin. Finally had to get a new set screw. Why the shaft isn't keyed I will never know. I am used to old school rotors with a notched shaft so the rotor doesn't need a set screw.

Edited by MR_Loyale
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My 2cents is on the ignitor. I had an xt do that to me. I nearly pulled my hair out trying to figure that out.

 

I also had one get dirt inside the distributor. Being an optical doo-dad the lenes can get dirty. Some contact cleaner, and a soft cloth made things clear again.

 

In both cases, the car had spark, and checked good with a timing light.

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So I cleaned all the wire harness connectors, everything. New plugs, rotor, cap, fuel filter. Cleaned MAF sensor, Cleaned all the grounds, switched all fuses..... Tried to start it and POW!!!!! Running like a champ! I am not sure what it exactly was, but i think the build up (do I dear call it corrosion) on all the wire connectors may have had something.

The spark is significatly bigger too.

 

Thank You guys all for your help.

 

BTW in checking the fuel pump, i discovered a significat amount of dog hair stuck in the filter screen! I cleaned the entire fuel system, drained, put in new gas and filter too.

 

 

THANK YOU!

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Without seeing what "piece" you are referring to, it is probably either the "ignitor" (coil's switching-transistor) or the doodad that reduces RFI noise caused by the ignition.

 

Yes that was what I was refering to. Thank you for your help. I was getting spark, but I dont think it was "good spark".....Since I have cleaned everything (connectors, etc) the spark is very intense.... Started right up!!!

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Since you have good compression (which indicates the valve timing is ok) and even using starter fluid doesn't help get things going I would have to think that the trouble is with the spark. Check the voltage getting to the plus side of the coil to make sure that is getting 12 volts while trying to start the engine. If that is ok then perhaps the ignitor which is located under the disty may be the trouble.

 

EDIT:

I see I am a little late with this info. I suspect your problem was with the wire connection to the ignitor.

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  • 1 year later...

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