tdodge41 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 So I am getting ready to change the passenger side front wheel bearing on my 85 Brat. In addition to the tools I used to change the axles, is there something else I might need? My haynes manual says I need a shop to take care of it for me by using a hydraulic press. That would be a bummer, it was really something I was hoping I could do from home. Any thoughts here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Hammer and drift punch is all you really need to remove/install bearings. Done a few that way now, with both the knuckle removed from the vehicle, or still mounted. Tried one bearing swap using a press, it was a pain. Not easy to get the knuckle set right to do a clean straight press on the bearing. Hammer/punch is much easier in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Agreed.. Punch to remove it, I used a piece of 3/8 brass rod to seat them just to be sure I didn't bugger it up.. Take s a bit to fully seat but easy enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdodge41 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 I guess what I am not seeing is where they need to be seated... the illustration I see just shows a oil seal, inner bearing, spacer, outter bearing, and seal. Does it seat into the axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Once you get the bearings out you'll see it. But there is a lip inside the knuckle that the bearings outer race seat against. The spacer between the inner races is to set the preload on the bearings, once the axle is installed and properly torqued. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdodge41 Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 What should the axle be torqued to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 I always go to 180 ft lbs. I have gone higher to get the castle nut to line up with pin holes. You can almost not get it too tight.. but do not ever go too loose and beware putting the cone washer in do not put it backwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 (edited) No, you do NOT need to take to garage. If the bearing is coming out get a large punch and come from the opposite side, through the hub and place end of punch on exposed part of center bearing race, tap top, then bottom, then right left etc.. and it will push out the seal and then the bearing. The more the bearing moves out the more hitting surface you have. Keep an eye open for a 3/8 brass shaft at scrap metal yard etc... If they are coming out I use steel as once you pound on the center race there done anyways.. although I have used them again. For installing bearings I purchase a set screw shaft collar just a bit smaller than the bearing so when I tap? (pound) new bearing in I hit it and not the bearing. Assure to keep it square. I also use the same shaft collar with a bigger washer than the bearing to pull in a new axle (Assure I.D. of shaft collar and washer is larger than axle o.d. other wise it won't work on axle install.). By sliding a washer on and tightening castle nut it will pull the axle through hub, by stacking large washer than shaft collar I repeat process till axle is sucked all the way through hub. I have had some axles so loose I grabbed axle with channel locks and pulled it through, but they are normally not that easy. Lots of ways if you do a "search" on task bar, but with washers, and shaft collars I find it works well for me. Look at your local, Farm supply and they usually have a large selection and fairly cheap. I keep them in a tool box ready to go with a socket for the axle nut, spare subie cotter pin and 1/2" breaker bar and tie-rod puller as I go that route. Something else I like to do is to take a 12" x 21" x 3/4" plywood and drill out the exact wheel bolt pattern and center area so it looks like a rim pattern on the board. I center it about 1/3rd up the board or the height of the axle above the ground while the car is resting on the blocks. I use this board to hold the wheel as I torque the castle nut so I don't have to put wheel on and lower etc or try and hold back etc... I just slip the board on and tighten axle nut, quick, simple. If I have to I put a 2x4 on ground to jam if to high etc.. I snug up castle nut about 1/3rd torque value, loosen, tighten almost to torque, loosen and then on the third I take it to torque. Old mechanic showed me that and not sure if it is gospel, but has worked for years for me. You can give rotor a spin between each torquing or what ever.... Also, assure front wheels are on the ground when your tighten the 14mm bolts on the Suspension arm Pivot bushing if those were loosened. Sorry so wordy but hope some of this might help. Everyone seems to have their own way. my .02 My two shaft collars are 2-3/4 O.D. x 1-3/4" I.D. with assortment of washer 3"+ o.d. with assortment of I.D. just larger than axle o.d. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/shaft-collars/couplings-collars-and-adapters/power-transmission/ecatalog/N-cljZ1z12v0o Edited June 5, 2013 by Indrid cold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdodge41 Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 No, the more wordy the better. I am very new to working on cars, so the more explanation I can get, the better. I need to figure out what size axle nut I have and get a socket for that, and a set screw shaft collar that will fit my bearings. And apparently some bearing grease, because everywhere I have read says to make sure and pack bearings tight with bearing grease. Heading to quality farm and fleet after work to get this done. Any idea the estimated time this should take? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 (edited) I just did this procedure , Its not that hard to do . sometimes if you let it go for too long the bearings heat up and can be a problem getting out . but they do come out without too much effort . good luck . Edited June 4, 2013 by ivantruckman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 (edited) Axle nut will be 36mm.. I will edit this If I can remember where the pdf link to HTKYSE manual.. It is the gospel for old Subies. Ok so This isn't how I got my digital copy but It should work for you anyway.. I am pretty sure he still has it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137678-how-to-keep-your-subaru-alive-1975-1988-pdf/?hl=%2Bkeep+%2Byour+%2Bsubaru+%2Balive Good luck Mike Edited June 4, 2013 by Mykeys Toy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 to do it right you need a new cone washer and spring washer. order them direct from subaru (they are called "center piece axle"). you can buy a new castle nut and kotter pin kit at a normal parts store for like $5 if you want, but the new center piece axle kit is essential. the spring washer is directional and says "out" where it contacts the castle nut. I personally had the machine shop do it. Im not scared of doing bearings but it only cost $35 a side to have them press out the old, hot tank clean the spindle, and grease and install the new bearings and seals. not a bad price for just picking it up and putting it back on. id probably also buy ball joints since they will be coming off anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 (edited) First time is a pain in the keaster... and takes way longer than one would have thought, after that it goes much quicker. Check the "Search" task bar above, lots of info. Here is a quick link on packing bearings with grease. I like to wear rubber gloves... I have used the cone washers/springs washer mine many times over, however I have recently purchased new spring/cone washers for next time as they just look tweeked and wore out. Also, i could never find the right kotter pins in auto stores so I order a few spares from Subie dealer and keep them in the tool box set aside for axles. Ball joints can be done any time so put them on your list unless you have time to venture further. Edited June 5, 2013 by Indrid cold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Pretty sure I put new cone/spring washers on it the last time I had it apart to do axle boots. 145 plus on the torque for the nut, always go tighter if need be to get cotter pin in. Recommended to recheck torque after driving 100 miles or so. You shouldn't have any issues pulling the pinch bolts for the ball-joints. I have always popped the ball-joints out of the knuckles to do axles. Anti-seize has always been used on any bolts I've removed also. Front calipers/pads were new around 2 years ago, so you should be good on those for a while. Really wish I could remember if I did do new ball-joints and tie-rod ends on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdodge41 Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Thanks all. Did the front wheel bearing successfully in about an hour and a half, minus an impact. Noise is still there though. This noise started when I did the first axle swap. Might throw the old axle in there, or a gently used one, and see if the noise is still there. If so, then I have a nice message I will be sending to rockauto trying to find some warranty information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 contact Shawnw on the boards here if you need axles. they rebuild quality ones next door to his shop and he gives fair prices. not much higher than aftermarket crap but better quality. my answer is to have a local shop do the axles since they offer a warranty. the axles they get are no better than the ones we get, but they eat the extra cost and time to switch them out. even they say quality is spotty, they sometimes have to put 3-4 in before one holds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdodge41 Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 The ones that I did were from rockauto, EMPI axles. Both were brand new. And it looks like EMPI axles have a 12 month warranty, so thats good. Does anyone have any experience on trying to return something to EMPI or something that you bought through rockauto? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Rockauto typically has excellent customer service and returns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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