ivans imports Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Roasting pistons over a open boost fire laaa laaaa laaa 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 Hi. Guys. Sorry Presslab, don't have pic. posting abilities. I'm gonna have to work on that. I opened up the N/A ecu I have, and it's all together different. Do ya think it would be safe to reverse the cam and crank leads for a test run? Sure need to get this thing on the road. Thanks ya'll. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Do not use na ecu perty shure the injector drivers are different ohms have been able to repair some ecus look at the large blue resistor on board and test ohms axross it and see if it burnt ? the turbo ones like to burn ecu have had 3 in last 2 years bad ecu sorry dont have any ecus left mabee a parts one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 Well, thanks you guys for all your help. I've got an ECU coming, prob. be here Monday. One of folks over at Legacy Central had one. I'm hopin' it'll be a plug and play deal when it gets here. I've got every thing else pretty well wrapped up and ready to . Thanks again. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 Hi sorry, I forgot to ask, does anyone around here rebuild these things? Ivans post makes me think it mite be good to have a spare. s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Posted June 21, 2013 Author Share Posted June 21, 2013 Hi. Folks. Say, if anybody is still followin' this thread, I've got a few more questions. I eliminated the boost controller, I'm manual, but do I need to keep the pressure sensor? Also, what about the tranny switches, ground the ecu leads? A buddy was tellin' me that on a swap he did, that the trans lead was causing the ecu to kill spark to two cylinders,(limp mode?) Any chance? Thanks all. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 Have heard rumers of a guy in winapeg manatoba that rebiulds ecus soposed to be the best i do not have a contact # for him just hearsay but bett you could find him bet not many people doing thiss I have repiared a few but is hit or miss as i do not have any testing tools for checking the chips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Hi. Folks. Say, if anybody is still followin' this thread, I've got a few more questions. I eliminated the boost controller, I'm manual, but do I need to keep the pressure sensor? Also, what about the tranny switches, ground the ecu leads? A buddy was tellin' me that on a swap he did, that the trans lead was causing the ecu to kill spark to two cylinders,(limp mode?) Any chance? Thanks all. S. Yes you still need to keep the pressure sensor. Can you clarify what you are calling the tranny switches? Are you referring to the AT/MT identifier switch on the ECU? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 Hi. Josh. Yes, I guess it's the neut. safety switch, B58-10, leave open or grnd.? And, I guess I need to keep the Pres.sensor, B48 3-4-5, that's the triangular connector, rite? And, the pres. exchange sol., F47-20? Also, there's a wht. wire at F47-18, that I haven't been able to to Id. So, I'm building a panel to enclose the back part of the spare tire well, flush w/ the fire wall, to mount the ecu. Do you see any reason that the pres. sens.,- exch. sol.,- Ignitor,-main and fuel relays,- etc. shouldn't mounted in there? I'm using 1/8" alum. sheet, w/ foil faced 1/4" foam on the back side to insulate it. Then mount all that hdwr. to another alum. stand off panel, attached to the back outer cover w/ some space between, to further isolate it all from heat soak. Whatya think? I bought another ecu from W T Dash over at Legacy Central, looks like it won't be here till Wed., hoping that will git me fired up and runnin'. Thanks again Josh. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 I would suggest hooking up the neutral switch to the transmission, assuming it has one. The ECU could throw a CEL if it's not hooked up. Yes, the pressure or MAP sensor has the triangular shaped connector. Yes you need the pressure exchange solenoid as well. It switches the MAP sensor between atmosphere & intake manifold. This allows the ECU to get barometric pressure readings. F47-18 you don't need to worry about it. It's part of the factory diagnostic connections. You can see the full ECU pin out list here: http://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/ecupins/ If I had a preference, I'd prefer to have the ECU in the cabin vs. the engine compartment because of the moisture, dirt, and heat. The stock ECU case is not water, dust, etc proof. So if you put it in the engine compartment I'd almost suggest getting a sealable case of some sorts that you can put it in. If you're going to do that, I'd put the relays in there as well. The igniter, MAP sensor, & pressure exchange solenoid are fine to be in the elements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 Thanks Josh. My plan is to seal the tire well. One alum. piece to seal the lower portion level with that firewall shelf, bolted in w/ brackets and caulked in tite. Then an overlapping upper section w/ foam seals, screwed to the firewall. I'll drill two small drain holes in the well bottom to drain any leakage into the pass. compartment . I think i can seal it up tite enough to be nearly water and dust proof. Thot I'd mount the ecu w/ the connections facing down, for what that's worth. Water leaks aren't near as much an issue here in the high desert. Hope to be posting a big ee-haw in the near future. Thanks for your input, one and all. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Posted June 28, 2013 Author Share Posted June 28, 2013 It's alive---It's alive. Got it started last evening, hittin' on all four. Lots of bugs to work out, but whew. I'm goin' out now to fill it with coolant, so I can get it idling, and dial things in. Thanks much Ya'll.. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 did the ecu I sent end up being what you needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Posted June 29, 2013 Author Share Posted June 29, 2013 Hi. Not certain. I plugged your ecu in, but at the same time i found a coupla' grounds that I'd put in my bunch grnds. that were supposed to be grounded back to the ecu. Should have done them as seperate changes, to be sure what did the trick. I'ts running rough, but I'm feelin' confident enough that i've started loomin' it all up. Thanks much for your help. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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