Lacyjs9 Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 car tends to stall when i make a hard turn im guessing the float is off anytips on adjusting it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 if its a 32/36 dgv... turn the top plate upside down to allow the float to rest as close to it as it will go. measure the distance from the bottom of the top base plate to the highest point on the float (the actual bottom if its on the car), this should be 39mm. bend the tab that is connected to the needle valve until you get the distance correct. then adjust the stroke. do the same measurement but with the top plate in its normal orientation and the float resting on the stop tab towords the back. the measurement should be 50mm. bend the stop tab till its set. if you dont have, get a small metal slide rule. its easier to get into those spaces and take a reading. if your within specs check to make sure the float is not damaged (if yours has a brass float for whatever reason id replace it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 DGEV's starve themselves when pitched to a certain side. I think it's the same as making a hard left, if memory serves correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 carbs can cut out depending on the force of the car (ive seen holley's that used to die if you hammered the breaks, don't know if they still do). it shouldnt be pronounced though, mine looses some rpms when I hard turn left on a strange camber, but it just goes to 500 or so and doesnt die. it also doesnt do it above 20mph or so. I would guess that even this could be tuned out, but im not worried about it. Its not safe to have cars die in turns though, id tune it to take care of that. I dont know for sure if its float related, but checking the adjustment isnt bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru_dude Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 if its a 32/36 dgv... turn the top plate upside down to allow the float to rest as close to it as it will go. measure the distance from the bottom of the top base plate to the highest point on the float (the actual bottom if its on the car), this should be 39mm. bend the tab that is connected to the needle valve until you get the distance correct. then adjust the stroke. do the same measurement but with the top plate in its normal orientation and the float resting on the stop tab towords the back. the measurement should be 50mm. bend the stop tab till its set. if you dont have, get a small metal slide rule. its easier to get into those spaces and take a reading. if your within specs check to make sure the float is not damaged (if yours has a brass float for whatever reason id replace it). I was totally under the impression that for the resting position you were supposed to stand the top plate on it's edge so the float just hung there and only touched the tiny little valve (power valve?), but didn't compress it. That's the way it's described in the directions that came with my weber rebuild kit, and tutorials on youtube explain it the same way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 your correct, I was reading it wrong (I use the weber specific haynes manual) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacyjs9 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 thanks fellas ive had it fixed for awhile the adapter nuts was just vibrating loose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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