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new 94 awd loyale owner with questions


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HI just bought this car (94 loyale, AWD, spfi, 5 speed, ea82)  thinking it was misfiring due to the old gas since it had been sitting. turns out It had someone working on it who failed to double check his rocker arms after he put the cam tower back on (at least I hope there is no reason it would do that on its own). 

 

just got that back together and I'll be finishing it up and testing it tonight. Hopefully I have a new car and not a $1000 paper weight. 

 


But I have a few questions I cant seem to find answers to. When not in AWD is it FWD or RWD? I'm guessing fwd like the brat but I dunno. 

 

IS there any reason (other than a bad repair job) that the rocker arm would come loose and be sitting in the cam tower undamaged? Do I need to worry about this happening again?

 

HOw do I flash codes if the check engine light is on?

 

even after I get it back to running I gotta hope the thing wasn't driven like this and has damaged the rings. Cross your fingers for me.  :unsure:

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The car is technically a part time 4wd. There is no center differential, but instead a PTO to the rear from the front diff. The car is FWD when 4wd is not engaged. there are, however "full time 4wd" trans that were in some RX, xt, and GL-10 models using the same transmission, which have a locking center diff. Later model subaru (impreza, legacy) trans (awd) would be this, but with a viscous center diff.

 

The rocker (follower) may have fallen out during assembly if the cam tower has been removed, or perhaps there is a collapsed lifter, caused by either a bad o-ring in the cam tower, or bad oil pump seal (aeration)

 

Check under the hood for the pair of green and white(or black) connectors up near the wiper motor. The white plugs are for checking the engine codes(the LED on the ecu under the steering column, drop the kick panel to find it). The green connectors are for cycling the fuel pump, and to hold the initial timing static for tuning. these connectors should remain unplugged for normal operation.

 

The rings would be virtually impossible to damage, unless there has been standing water in the cylinders, (missing heads, plugs, submerged)

 

If the engine consumes oil while running, suspect either the pcv system, or bad valve seals.

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Thanks for the info.  The lifters all look to be in the same position. Should I leave the timing covers off for a bit and wait to see? I need the car pronto. If it is the lifters I'm guessing it's a situation where I'll have to pull the head and take it to a machine shop? no easy on car method I'd guess?

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YOu can pull the cam tower independently of the heads. The heads do not have to come off. To get an idea of what's involved, check this video.

 

The lifters mey pump back up after the car runs for a bit and you have new seals in the oil pump.

 

You may as well ditch the timing belt covers once you have removed them, as it makes routine work much easier not having to deal with them. 

 

The belts are less likely to fail uncovered than the covers will be in the way for something routine like checking the belt tension or inspecting the timing marks.

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i followed that video to do the job actually lol

 

 

Hopefully I wont have any issue with the follower but if I do I need to look into a pump reseal? 

 

 

:edit: stupid question. I'll just reseal it now before it has a chance to be a problem

Edited by CarpeNoctem
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Do the oil pump seal along with crank and cam seals. The timing belt wil have to come off. Do the water pyump while in there.The work is not as complicated as it may seem. watch more of the videos to see how it's done!

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I'll have to come back apart for the crank and cams. I need it on the road ASAP unfortunately. Hate to half do the job but my cadillac is going out and I don't have other wheels. I have two girls and a job relying on me having a car.

 

I'm not the type to not do it though. just another weekend after the thing is on the road. 

Edited by CarpeNoctem
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