1986 XT Turbo!

[nickox808]

Hey guys I'm new to the forums, but I just picked up a 1986 subaru XT turbo FWD! I'm also new to the subaru family, so ill have a ton of questions in the near future. But it's mostly stock 91k original miles(super stocked about that) , 5 speed , tmic, sti hood scoop, and a 3" exhaust all the way back w/ magnaflow muffler. Boost pulls hard but it needs a new clutch soon... Ugh -.-

 

My future plans are to:

-add a MBC

-BPV or BOV

-slamming the sh*t out of it... I'm going cut springs for now, but if anyone knows about a good set up for at least a 3in drop, please shed some light on that.

 

 

-and my last and probably my most expensive mod I plan on doing(lol budget build) is going AWD than from there convert to RWD.. Any input on that idea would be really helpful. I wanna know cost, parts list, and fabrication work etc.. The reason I got the idea is because I know a guy who has a Wrx wagon and he converted his to rwd, he said he can brake the wheels loose on the freeway ! I want my xt to do that..

 

Thanks in Advance !

 

Ill post pics up soon..

[djellum]

dont mess with the boost, the motor really cant handle much more than it came with.  considering the mods already done Id investigate and make sure you still have the stock turbo on it.  if not repost here with the one you have and see what people say.  the stock turbo is 7psi, some people run 10ish ok, but you have to be carefull, once you hit double digits your pushing it. putting a full sized modern turbo running 15-20 boost is pretty much just manufacturing explosives.  it has been done but it takes a lot of research and knowledge, so at least wait to mess with the boost.

 

personally I think your best performance gain may be replacing that exhaust with a 2-2.5 inch version.  built big blocks dont even need 3 inch most of the time.  I doubt that the EA82 can clear a 3 inch exhaust, though I dont know for sure how it reacts with that big pipe.

 

cutting the springs is pretty horrible on cars, and the XT actually has decent handling, Id recommend a lug conversion and changing the tire profile first.  I think you can get lower and have it handle and look better that way.  Rear wheel drive is pretty doable, just get the equipment and put it on.  there are write ups here on the site.

 

if you want your XT to do what that WRX does, you will need to put a WRX motor in it.  if you fully build the motor in your XT to capacity, and run it on the ragged edge of explosion, it still wont put out as much as a stock WRX.  the EJ motor swaps are fairly simple, if you want real performance thats where you should look.  

 

either way you decide to go, XT's are fun and unique, love them for what they are, but dont try to keep up with the modern tuner crowd.  do some research here and at XT6.net.  you cant just throw stuff on these motors like you can on a Vtec or STi.

[nickox808]

Yea I was only planning on going up to 10psi, I'm not sure how ea82t are suppose feel. But mine has a lot of power even with barley any clutch left(which is slipping so bad, when accelerating) and a really bad exhaust leak by the turbo where it is welded to the down pipe. You could hear all the boost shooting through that little leak.

 

Ok ill search that write up

 

Could I put a cone filter or like an HKS mushroom filter ? Or is it better to stick with the stock air box

[nickox808]

And I plan on keeping the ea82 when I go rwd, I like the motor has enough power for what I plan on doing.... Drifting! lol

[SmashedGlass]

The EA82T was never intended as a full performance engine; Subaru developed it mainly to address mid-range torque, which is where you mostly feel the kick from the teeny little snail they included on it. At that, it performs quite well; as a platform for racing or big power, forget it. You'll dump more money getting there for almost but less power than a swap, and it will still eventually explode.

[crazyhorse001]

Do some reading. EA82T's tend to go poof, even in stock trim. If you wanna build a performance car, from an XT, a swap is in order.

 

Visit us over at www.subaruxt.com for more info than you can digest on the wonder wedge!

[djellum]

tbh you already have the basic upgrades that most would do to the XT.  Intercooler and exhaust.  cone filter is a mixed bag, I've heard of people having issues with them, and I doubt the claims that swapping one filter for another will make any significant increase in power.  If you can get a better filter, ie it removes smaller particles or something sure.

 

probably the biggest thing you could do (if it hasnt been done already) is to send your cams in to Delta Cams to have them reground.  if you tell them your building a drift car they can custom grind them to put the power where you need it to break those tires loose.  not saying you would want to drive it to work after, theres only 110 hp to play with so if you move all the power to the top end theres not much left at a stop light.

 

any which way you go, remember that heat is your worst enemy.  Do not run lean, Do not overheat this motor, use good quality gas.  keep your systems and oil clean.  do those and the motor should last reasonably long.

[86 Wonder Wedge]

NO BOV. If you want the sound, put a speaker in there.

 

Dump the 3", it isn't helping you. Also forget the CAI. With the air box's snorkle the way it is, it can pull more "cold" air than a mushroom in a near-zero air flow pocket in a nearly sealed engine bay can.

 

The EA82Ts are fun if you can keep them cool enough and keep the knocking at bay. DO NOT TOUCH THE BOOST. The intercooler is a good start, but just keep your EM system in good order and it should last a while.

 

There are two ways to increase the car's performance: Add power or lose the weight. And in the case of the EA82T, more power is a motor swap. Even the EJ22 will be probably a 20% increase in power and torque. For lightweight, strip the fold down seats, the spare, ect.

 

Make sure you don't have the air suspension first. Also, cutting springs really won't help you... 5 lug (XT6 hubs and control arms among other parts) is the only way to go to maintain good alignment or even camber adjustment for the front. Rear alignment adjustment is nearly non-existant.

Also, start saving/looking for a 4WD rear carriage and research a rear e-brake conversion.

 

The XT can be anything you want it to be, just don't throw good money after bad. If you've dreamed it, chances are someone has tried or thought about it too.

 

Welcome, and Good Luck!

[nickox808]

For better cooling what's recommended ? Is there any aluminum radiators for our XTs ?

 

I'm on a tight budget so the xt6 5 lug swap will come later and I have no clue where I'm gonna find the parts. Being that I live in Vegas old gen subie parts aren't easy to come by. Is there any other subie struts and shocks that would fit the XT and shorter than the XT suspension ? Since I'm going to be really low I need as much as I can get.

 

As for the wheels I was planning on going 6lug swap with some 15x8 or 9 steelies. I wanted to get some wheels that have that diamond racing wheels look.

 

Could someone please give me the link to the write up about the AWD swap and yes I've try'd the search form multiple times, bare with me I'm using my iPhone.

 

Stay tuned peeps, considering I'm the only person that wants to slam there XT...

[nickox808]

*as much Travel as I can get

[djellum]

not much for lowering.  the 6 lug is a good idea, or look up SJR's website, they sell adaptors.  you can also drill a different pattern than the 6 lug as well.

 

the AWD swap would probably be cheapest by just buying an AWD car with a blown motor.  then just swap the stuff over.  

 

you can also get 15 inch pugs that run your lug pattern.  dont know what your tastes are, but the 15's look pretty good.

[MilesFox]

Hey guys I'm new to the forums, but I just picked up a 1986 subaru XT turbo FWD! I'm also new to the subaru family, so ill have a ton of questions in the near future. But it's mostly stock 91k original miles(super stocked about that) , 5 speed , tmic, sti hood scoop, and a 3" exhaust all the way back w/ magnaflow muffler. Boost pulls hard but it needs a new clutch soon... Ugh -.-

 

My future plans are to:

-add a MBC

-BPV or BOV

-slamming the sh*t out of it... I'm going cut springs for now, but if anyone knows about a good set up for at least a 3in drop, please shed some light on that.

 

 

-and my last and probably my most expensive mod I plan on doing(lol budget build) is going AWD than from there convert to RWD.. Any input on that idea would be really helpful. I wanna know cost, parts list, and fabrication work etc.. The reason I got the idea is because I know a guy who has a Wrx wagon and he converted his to rwd, he said he can brake the wheels loose on the freeway ! I want my xt to do that..

 

Thanks in Advance !

 

Ill post pics up soon..

This car is not a honda. Please refer to a different body of knowledge so that you don't ruin your car.

[leniac]

watch out the heat in the engine with the 10psi....

[MilesFox]

If you are staying with the ea82, you will want the following:

 

full time 4wd trans with locking center diff, maybe welded, but you can use a 4wd dual range trans bing that you will have lo range

 

You will need 25 spline axles for any turbo or xt6 trans(full time) or 23 splines for a dual range which the car has.

 

you will need an entire 4wd rear subframe assembly from any xt, or 85-94 GL, DL, Loyale sedan, 3-door or wagon.

 

Ideally you would want to use xt6 suspension so you can go with 5 lug hubs, modern 5x100 wheels, and modern coilover susppension based on impreza parts. From there, you can retrofit wrx parts and the like.

 

So with a 4wd/awd trans, you will need the driveshaft. you will have to invent a bracket to mount the carrier bearing.

 

You can tick a 4wd trans to run as rwd by removing a front axle, separating the spindle, and keeping the spindle in the hub for the wheel bearings.

 

You can swap the ring gears from later models into the ea82 diff housing to get 4.11 or 4.44 gears.

 

aside from the carrier bearing mount, 4wd parts are all bolt on. The same car can be 4wd, FWD, or rwd as it is with its existing parts.

 

You can say you DAGF what i think, but really, what i know is something of value for you. That is why you are at the USMB to begin with?

[nickox808]

Wow you really prove me wrong... I apologize for the unnecessary comment up there^^ , I'm eager to snap at anyone. I was mostly insulted by the Honda part.. lol but aside from all this thank you the most value able information I need is now right in front of me. It couldn't of been any easier. If you fellow subaru members bump Kendrick Lamar , "ignorance is bliss" is right song to be heard right now. Lmao thanks again!

[nickox808]

I called both pick a parts here in Vegas and no luck with any gl,dl, or loyales... Car-part.com is now my only source for the parts...

[SmashedGlass]

Make a trip into Colorado, East of the Rockies. They're thick as fleas in the pick'n'pulls around Pueblo/Colorado Springs/Denver

[djellum]

also try here on the looking for parts section.  you will have to pay shipping, but its easier than driving all over looking for unpicked cars.

 

you will have to thicken your skin on the Honda thing.  you dont even want to know how many times I've heard "sweet Prelude, does it have a body kit or something?".

[MilesFox]

If you can find a whole xt6 that would be the best bang for donor parts as you would be able to use all of it for the whole build.

[nickox808]

Is it possible to install a bee R rev limiter on an ae82t ?

[jono]

I don't think you will be happy if you go with the order you listed as once you have dumped it as far as, fitted up a big as exhaust and go to shove in the rear diff and all its bits that don't all just bolt into AUS delivered FWD XT4's - moustache bar mounts to chassis has no holes or captivated nuts inside?

You will likely find th exhaust was not made to clear all the rear diff and suspension components and once low as the angle of the rear drive axles may be so low, the angle is wrong for long life.

 

I have an april 1986 XT FWD EA82 turbo too! I found the FWD box stubs to drive front wheels are 25 spline on the factory fitted box.

 

Green metallic with brown interior - ooh yum

Also run 10/85 EA82 turbo sedan with no intercooler and 12psi boost - rarley sees 12 for more than 10 seconds, and is set more to avoid a fluffing that used to happen at max 8 psi setting. I have done 50,000 miles so far on a part time 4WD dual range 5 speed box with the 23 spline stubs on the front with no problems. If you fit one of these boxes with 23 need to swap in 23 spline DOJs at least. Expect to find the gearshifters of sedan or wagon 5MT DR box not to line up best with hole in floor of XT, may need some fiddling and consolation from in here

 

With the 3 plug ECU, flapper afm A82T's they use a knock sensor control box mounted above the carpet of the trans tunnel below the radio. Yet to find the test connector on my XT, but have the test connector white single plastic not connected to anything below the coil - gives off 1.7V with engine running and happy - find this wire at that voltage and you can start to monitor your knock sensor working with a muiltimeter for starters, hook up a timing light to watch timing marks, use back end of a wrench to knock the engline block with a 'tap' and you should see DMM hit max of 4.5V and see timing retard about ten degrees, then see it correct back to its factory 20. If this works you can monitor any knock and get an idea if your boost is too much knock wise ,not combustion temp wise, but it is all related.

As far as getting a new clutch in so you can drive it, these FWD turbo XTs share same clutch as to drive a 5MT 4WD box.

 

As far as where it gets its power is not always cam related either. Many fail to consider the size of the pipe just under the turbo, the smaller it is ~36mm ID gives earlier stronger boost, where the ones with about 40mm ID are a bit slower to spool up but take it quickly and readily to the 6500 rpm mark before you know it

Edited June 29, 2013 by jono

[Turbone]

 

As far as where it gets its power is not always cam related either. Many fail to consider the size of the pipe just under the turbo, the smaller it is ~36mm ID gives earlier stronger boost, where the ones with about 40mm ID are a bit slower to spool up but take it quickly and readily to the 6500 rpm mark before you know it 

 

This would be the up-pipe (header) and not the downpipe. Pressure>volume when it comes to this part.