Uberoo Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 The EJ22 in my offroader ate itself.It seems it couldn't take bouncing off the rev limiter for 4 minutes in mud.It still runs but has no oil pressure and has rod knock. Fortunately I have another engine I can put in.Looking at the specs of the stock oil pump, tells me that the stock oil pump is only good for 50ish PSI which is alittle low for bouncing off the rev limiter at 6250 RPM if following the 10 PSI for every 1000 RPM rule.Is there a way to increase the operating pressure of the stock pump 10 or so PSI? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 More likely to my mind you managed to suck the pan dry or you were bouncing around enough you splashed oil onto the crank and foamed the oil, or a combination. Or a rod bearing was just not up to the beating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 6, 2013 Author Share Posted July 6, 2013 (edited) That engine was in the car for a year and a half.It came from a car with only 150K on it.However I bet I only put about 5-10K miles of hard life and abuse on it.I am worried because the "new" engine has 225K. Even still the oil pressure on that engine was never more than 65 PSI cold~45 warmed up... I am trying to make this engine last because I have killed almost as many engines as CV axles. 3 EA81s ,1 Ea82,2 EJ22s. Most due to water/debris ingestion,a couple massive overheats,and finally this one due to oil issues.Those are just the ones that died after an offroad outing.Total engine failures adds three more EA81's and two more EJ22, plus a couple of EF12s(justy) engines for good measure.All of these over the roughly 8 years that Ive been into subarus. Edited July 6, 2013 by Uberoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Get an STI 10mm oil pump. You can get them for a good price through Shawn, or order one from a dealer. The pressure limiting valve is supposed to open at around 70 psi, so its possible that pump was weak, the screws on the backing plate were loose, the pressure valve spring was weak, or the bearings were already on their way out. Hard to say, but bouncing off the rev limiter is not exactly good for an engine, oil pressure becomes a moot point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 (edited) Yeah, rev limiter bouncing is not good. Ease off just enough so it's pulling close to redline but not hitting the cut. How dented was the pan? If you crush the pan in enough you can restrict the pickup and the oil pump starves at higher rpms. Loose screws on the back of the pump are easy to check on teardown. Usually they cause low pressure at idle though. One other thing to consider is oil temperature. With it buried in a hole, there's no airflow around the oil pan to help dump heat. You might want to put on an oil cooler from a turbo subaru or a 99 forester. You need the thermostat housing and one of the block drain plugs too for the coolant fittings. Edited July 7, 2013 by WoodsWagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 7, 2013 Author Share Posted July 7, 2013 The pan wasn't dented much, other than a 1/2" deep dent from when pull and save punched a hole in the pan to drain the oil(why can't they just unbolt the drain..)So how do I check those screws on the back of the pump?I should make sure this new engine is ready before I stuff it in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 The pan wasn't dented much, other than a 1/2" deep dent from when pull and save punched a hole in the pan to drain the oil(why can't they just unbolt the drain..)So how do I check those screws on the back of the pump?I should make sure this new engine is ready before I stuff it in the car. unbolt the pump from the block (timing stuff needs to be out of the way) - check the screws - pretty simple, really. dont know what year motor you are using, but the FSM for 1990 model year gives a torque of only around 4 ft lbs for re-installing - use ultra grey for sealing, and dont forget a new o-ring while you are in there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Yeah, I'll bet the screws on the oil pump are loose on the engine that blew. I just pulled an EJ18 from my wheeler, Oil pressure was low at idle and even low at times when cruising at low RPMs Pulled the oil pump and checked the screws.......2 of them where barely tight....the other 3 had backed out several threads......the backing plate could be flexed away from the body........YIKES. Hopefully that engine is still good. No signs of trouble but I caught it JUST in time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 this may not help with increasing pressure, but it could if supply were a problem. use an ej25 oil pan. they hold a bit more oil and bolt right on. the dip stick is the same , just fill to the full line. there will be more oil in the pan, all below the full line. just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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