Car died, won't start

[soobenthusiast]

This is a 92 Loyale sedan, 5-speed FWD.

 

The engine was recently out for a re-seal, it has since gone about 60 miles.

It seemed to be running fine, although the CEL was on and it was missing a little at idle. Last night it died at a stoplight and won't restart.

 

I have fuel to the throttle body and it still has spark. The car cranks over fine but acts like it's not getting any fuel.

I pulled the codes, it has:

31 - Throttle Sensor or Circuit

11 - Crank Angle Sensor

14 - Fuel injector, abnormal output.

 

What should I test/look at first?

[chaz345]

This is a 92 Loyale sedan, 5-speed FWD.

 

The engine was recently out for a re-seal, it has since gone about 60 miles.

It seemed to be running fine, although the CEL was on and it was missing a little at idle. Last night it died at a stoplight and won't restart.

 

I have fuel to the throttle body and it still has spark. The car cranks over fine but acts like it's not getting any fuel.

I pulled the codes, it has:

31 - Throttle Sensor or Circuit

11 - Crank Angle Sensor

14 - Fuel injector, abnormal output.

 

What should I test/look at first?

I'm not intimately familiar with how things are wired but given that collection of codes, I'd strongly suspect a plug connection somewhere that's not connected completely or a ground somewhere. Those sorts of things being missed after an engine has been out are pretty common.  Look at a wiring diagram and find any points where the wiring to the TPS, and crank angle sensor and fuel injectors come together as a starting point.

[superpoo93]

Start small.... Have you checked the distributor rotor? Sometimes the set screw can back out and will be laying inside. Pull cap

And see if rotor will turn by hand or can be pulled off, if so... screw has backed out. If not the case turn engine over with the cap off and see if rotor turns. If the rotor does not turn check timing belt on drivers side.

[NorthWet]

Most common causes for an EA82 quitting while running is a broken timing belt and a backed-out set screw on the distributor rotor.  A less common fault is fuel pump failure.

 

The CEL codes from a non-running engine are not terribly useful.  Mostly what they tell you is that the engine is not running.

 

If you feel that it is not getting fuel, try some starter fluid and see if it makes a difference.  If it doesn't, the move on as it is not fuel related.

 

As mentioned before, check the distributor rotor.  If that seems ok, check both timing belts.  If the distributor side belt has issues, then the rotor won't turn (though you say you have spark), or the rotor is pointing at the wrong tower on the cap due to tooth skippage.  If the other t-belt has an issue, then the engine will usually sound like it wants to start, may actually catch and stumble for a few seconds, but will not idle.

 

My guess is that, since you had a recent reseal, a belt tensioner has come loose (allowing tooth skippage), or a belt failed.

[soobenthusiast]

It was indeed the rotor!!

 

I put it back in with a drop of loc-tite. The T-belts were the first thing I checked, quite easy since it now has no covers.

 

Thanks for all the help! I definitely would not have checked the rotor screw first.

 

Start small.... Have you checked the distributor rotor? Sometimes the set screw can back out and will be laying inside. Pull cap
And see if rotor will turn by hand or can be pulled off, if so... screw has backed out. If not the case turn engine over with the cap off and see if rotor turns. If the rotor does not turn check timing belt on drivers side.

[superpoo93]

Cool!! Glad hear the beast is back up. I have to give credit where credit is due. NorthWet, you are the man!! I had the same thing happen to me a few months back, and I found a post where you helped another member. I thank all of you who continue to give your knowledge and advise, so we can in turn do the same.

[NorthWet]

Learned at the School of Hard Knocks (no brains required).

 

Stupid little screw...