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Is my weber a diesel?


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Any other weber users experience dieseling on shut down? Mine will diesel about 25% of the time when I turn the key off. 2 or 3 more combustions before it rattles to a stop. Makes no difference if I let it idle for a few minutes before either. I've leaned out the mix as much as dare but that doesn't seem to make a difference except I'm gettting a little better mileage. Is there something I'm missing? I'm running the stock fuel pump with no regulator. EA-82 by the way. Thanks.

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dieseling is caused by haveing hot spots in your combustion chamber acting as a glow plug which ignites the fuel in the chamber causing the engine to go around to the next cylinder and sinse a carb operates by engine vacuum sucking in more fuel it just keeps igniting the fuel. the easyest way to stop this is to do a top engine clean. you can get a can of GM top engine clean for about 6$ from the chevy dealer and it is the best for this job that I have found. it stoped my honda, subaru, and my dodge from diesling. try that and see if it helps.

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Just did the Weber swap and manifold strip to my recent addition,

same thing happened when shutting the car down. Would backfire a bit through the manifold and

pop all the vaccum caps off the intake. PITA.

Backed the idle down and it hasn't done it since.

Idles at about 900 rpm now.

Still a bit to high, need to modify the cable bracket.

 

 

 

Weber_trial_85_DD_015.jpg

 

 

What's yours idling at when it's warmed up?

 

Regards,

 

Jay

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What's yours idling at when it's warmed up?

I'm at about 850 or so. I might try backing it down a hair more. So far I've heard GM top engine clean and MMO. Anybody try Seafoam? Never used any products to clean the top end out before. What's the procedure? Dump the stuff down the carb and burn it off?

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My Weber deisels a bit, but if you lower the idle speed, and adjust the timing up to about 10 or 12 instead of the stock 8, it should stop. Timing and idle speed make the most difference it seems.

 

If you can't make it stop, you can buy an anti-dieseling solenoid from Redline for like $10 that plugs right into the DGV. And the Hitachi's had them, so deiseling was apparently expected when Subaru designed the engine. With the low timing settings these engines have because of emmissions requirements, it's no wonder they expected a little deiseling.

 

Keeping the EGR valve operating properly will also reduce the cylinder temperatures, and help keep it from deiseling. Not to mention helping to keep your exhaust valves from getting burned, your AIS valves from blowing up, and your cat from getting too hot.

 

As for cleaning the top-end. Dump water from a hose down the carb. It will effectively steam clean the top-end. About as effective as anything else, and much cheaper.

 

GD

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Ditto's here on the Weber dieseling. Havent bothered yet to remedy it tho. I will try the timing and idle speed, and maybe flush the top end.

Dave, sorry, but your suggestion is not a very penny wise idea right now. I believe the cost of high octane gas is over $2 a gallon in most places now :eek: And the Regular isnt to far behind :banghead:

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if you dump water down the carb do it with caution as you dont want to cause a hydro lock condition, and the seafoam stuff is a great product as well bu the GM stuff is usually cheaper depending on your area. you can also use that stuff for cleaning out your egr valve ports with the valve removed and the engine off. just soak the area to be cleaned for about 5min and scrub with tooth brush or wire coat hanger. I advise against the water though due to personal experiances on my only running vehical.

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