TIMBERTIGER Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 I'll check it out thanks! Picked up some distributors this weekend. not sure if they're any good. We'll see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captin Hook Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 We'll have you gotten anywhere with this thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIMBERTIGER Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 Sorry for the delay guys. My squadron has had me out of town for the past couple months. I haven't had much time to tinker with it since I've been back but I'm leaning toward a bad distributor since I can actually hear some kind of vibration when my tach starts jumping. I just hate spending the money on parts with out knowing for sure if thats the problem. It's amazing how well she runs just sitting at idle in the driveway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIMBERTIGER Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 Well I've finally got a chance to begin taking her apart. I started to remove the distributor and noticed there are a few options when it comes to purchasing a new one. I've attached a picture. Is this the right one for my 86 BRAT? I'm assuming it's not the original judging by the splice. Ive also attached a picture of a damaged wire on the carb. Could this contribute to my fuel pump issue? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captin Hook Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Looks to be the wrong disy, and maybe. The disy should only have one vac port, I'll snap a picture of my tomorrow for ya. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captin Hook Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 All that craptochi is off my car so can really help with the wire part. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIMBERTIGER Posted December 22, 2013 Author Share Posted December 22, 2013 Ya, I have plans for a Weber in the near future but I want to eliminate one problem at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIMBERTIGER Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 Get a chance to look at that disy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captin Hook Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Sorry been wrapped up in Xmas stuff I'll get a pic before the weeks done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIMBERTIGER Posted December 26, 2013 Author Share Posted December 26, 2013 Ok so I swapped the distributor with the other type and the tach jump and noise seems to have disappeared for now. The car was still missing and dying under load so I temp installed an aftermarket fuel pump. So far, she seems to be running great. The old fuel pump must have been weak and conveniently failed the same time as the distributor. I have the fuel pump wired to a switch right now so I still haven't checked to see if the "no power to fuel pump" problem is resolved with the new disty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captin Hook Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 Here's the parts break down I'll still get some pictures of my disy when I get off work tonight. This is for an 84 ea81 brat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captin Hook Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 Would help if I had posted the picture to go with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captin Hook Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 So it won't let me post a pic just pm me your email address and I'll send it right over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIMBERTIGER Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Well my squadron is sending my away for a few months so I won't be able to tinker on the BRAT for a while. I'll update the status as soon as I return. Thanks to everyone for all the help. I know it's frustrating to try and follow a thread when the guy who posted for help disapears for weeks on end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pksjeep Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Going back to the picture of the carb. I believe the wire goes to an antidiesel device. If the wire grounds it will stall the car. If this is the problemtry to start the car and wiggle the wire it should affect the way the carruns. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIMBERTIGER Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Ok so I've finally made it home for alittle bit and all the symptoms seem to have returned. The tach is jumping all over the place again and the car wont drive down the road but it will idle in the driveway all day. The disty I installed was used so I can't completely eliminate that as a possibility but I have tried 2 known good fuel pumps so that is definately out of the equation. I'm lost with this thing I'm about to push it into the Ocean! Please HELP! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Find a hitachi dis for it Nippon ones not so good also have you checked the fuel pump timer ? and the screen in the carb on the neddle and seat was a problem on those carbed cars screen pluged up and bypassed carb = no fuel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIMBERTIGER Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 I'll try and find a Hitachi. What is the fuel pump timer? what do I remove to get to those screens? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 How many volts is this thing throwing out? I recently killed a voltage reg in mine and it would miss bad once the revs/volts got up. Ran great at idle tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIMBERTIGER Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 Voltage looks low to me on the gauge but reads 13.98 at the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 fuel pump timer is the safety cut out device found above the pedals, black box with about six wire plug in it. It is a neck and body twisting effort to get at, let alone test it in that spot. I would be testing at the fuel pump and be testing across the two wires at pump - meaning source your neg and pos from the fuel pump plug and see that the test device does not lose power after engine is running. With my 89 Brumby I found fuel pump does not get power until engine is running, so no fuel pump power in start/crank key position as it should start with what fuel is in the float bowl, if engine stalls with ign in run or IGN on position, black box cuts power or earth to pump for safety. However, I tried to disable ignition spark during a comp test so pulled ign fuse I think it would have been and noted fuel pump then ran at odd key positions - didn't run the same protection mode ???[ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIMBERTIGER Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 I wasn't getting power at the fuel pump when this whole thing started so I've had the pump wired to a switch since then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayoteq Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) I'm in the same boat here. I've gone all over the thing and swapped parts all over the place. My investigations are now going toward the wires between the relay and the pump. Some Brumby forums mention problems with grounding of the pump wires. So, getting out the meter and test light and more prising. I've not investigated the passenger area of the car yet. Will let you know if I find the resident gremilin. (Credit to AG Macay's youtube video on his Brumby restoration, " ") Edited March 3, 2014 by kayoteq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIMBERTIGER Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) The wires should come through the bulkhead directly fwd of the pump I have read mine out to the connector at the relay and had continuity all the way through. If it was grounding out the power wire somewhere I think it would blow a fuse. I have my pump wired direct to a switch for now so I can troubleshoot one problem at a time. Edited March 3, 2014 by TIMBERTIGER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayoteq Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 grounding out should be popping a fuse. A fusible link. something. It seems to defy the flow of electrons itself. Me, personally I think I may have a melted wire in the harness between the coil and the firewall. I ran it too long with a bad alternator.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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